texasz

What did you end up finding?

I've been gone for a while and just went to check this out. Looks like the auction was completely pulled as the links do not open the auction page. I would have liked to see what he had to say...

No, I do not know about the spoiler or wheels; sorry.

Sorry to hear that from your side of the transaction, though glad for the buyer...in a way. People constantly pay WAY too much for things on eBay as has been discussed on this site several times. Part of me hates to see someone get taken though at the same time he is the one who placed the bid and nobody forced him to do so...therefore it's all on him. As for the link, Wolf Creek is not my company...just where I got my Mikuni carbs from. Todd, the owner, is a great guy to work with when buying carbs due to his knowledge, experience, and customer service. Best of luck selling your set. With any luck someone will buy them for Christmas and you will have a little jingle in your pocket for the holiday! :laugh:

That's a good price, about what I have paid for mine. Too bad it's not closer or I'd consider it myself.

For anyone interested here's a link to the pix I took at the recent local Z car show. I love the first car!!! It's an RB swap and is very well done. http://www.pape.ws/gallery/2006_Capital_Z_of_Texas_Car_Show

I have to agree about the pop-ups on PDK, it makes navigating the site VERY painful. Please pass on that they really MUST change providers and eliminate this issue. And just what was that 'old racer trick' you used? Pix and description please...

New may not necessarily be better. I know that these have been out of production for a while and as such if it's really new and has never been rebuild nor used it's likely that it may need a rebuild kit any how. If it has been used it may certainly need rebuilt due to gas residue et al. On the other hand it may be perfectly fine. The company I was talking about is http://www.wolfcreekracing.com for anyone who is interested. Todd, the owner, is a great guy and very easy to work with!!

Weren't you also working on a dash light harness using LEDs? What happened to that?

Would love the fiberglass hood and fenders though the timing is very bad. What is the condition of the license plate light? Those are 4-screw SUs guys, I know someone wants them!

Certainly over priced too, just so you are aware these can be had from a very reputable race shop fully rebuilt, polished and looking like brand new for under $2k including shipping. I got my set about 1.5 years ago from him and know....and they are beautiful!!

Buy Spicer brand u-joints this time and you should avoid this from happening again.

Yes, plan B would be alright...though I would still look for plan A if you have a little time.

Nice find! What is the build date?

Check out ZGarage at http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

The carbs are easy to come my, just contact Todd at Wolfcreek Racing. Fell free to tell him that I sent you, I got my set from him and more recently sold him a set to rebuild. Now the wheels are a bit more difficult...

Here's yet another idea... on one of my parts cars I had already sold the head and then needed to pull the rest of the engine and tranny out so.... I took a tow chain and threaded it through the slot in the motor mounts around under the block through the slot on the other motor mount back up to the top of the block where I attached both sides of the chain to the engine hoist and out it all came with ease. If that does not make sense please let me know and I'll get a pic and illustrate what I'm talking about.

Consider the alternatives! What would an accident cost you?

I was unable to figure out how to tell it that I had parked. I was in the spot, centered, not touching anything yet the clock kept running....

I think not Gary. This IS a driving technique, there's no question about that and thus is on topic for this thread. Furthermore, the originator of this thread even said that he was glad I asked because this is something he has always wondered about himself...so there was certainly no hi-jacking happening there. For those that explained this technique in detail thank you. I have heard of people including racers using this technique for years and never really understood the purpose or just how to do it. Seem like something that I will have no need to employ in the driving of my Z. Though another technique that was just mentioned is of interest to me. Dave, please tell me more about this 'Scandinavian flick' as I will be autoxing my Z and feel as though this would be very useful.

Given the VIN and it's apearant condition the asking price is MORE than fair!!

Hey, on this topic can someone please explain 'double clutching' to me?

Jon, I am not looking to learn the details of how an LSD works...just looking for one for my Z in an R180 3.9 configuration.

Here's a little tool that you should play with to give you an idea of what would be best also: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

Here's the link I was looking for the other day. These are the diffs that I am aware of and why I was asking my previous question. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1568&perpage=15&pagenumber=2 I've got one of those R180 3.9 units that will be going into my car and if I can get an LSD R180 3.9 that would be even better!!