texasz

I have now placed, and received, two orders from them and both times I was fortunate enough to speak with the same person who was EXTREMELY helpful and very knowledgeable (even told me to call him directly in the future). I have had no problems with them yet. I agree with 2many, I'd make them eat the shipping since it was their error. Does not matter how or why it was their error, it WAS their's so they should make it right.

So then if I'm understanding this right using the 'stock' slot mags that came on the car and a 1" wheel spacer would give you the room to install the S12W breaks and vented discs. HOWEVER, this would be a bad idea as this would push the wheel out past the stock centerline thus causing other problems. *shrug* It was just a thought. Oh well, no big deal. I will just get the S12-8 and use my stock discs.

I just thought about something, everyone seems to agree that the S12W Toyota 4 piston calipers with vented discs will not fit behind a 14" wheel and that you must go to at least a 15" wheel. Well what about putting a wheel spacer on? This would push the wheel out some. Would this allow for the S12W behind a 14" wheel? How sturdy/stable are the wheel spacers? I will be autoxing my car so I will be hitting lots of turns very hard and would not want any problems.

stingray, if the deal with grunt0311 doesn't work out let me know via PM or email. I have one available also but your shipping cost from him will be less than from me since I'm in Texas.

Slightly off topic but I was under the impression that running straight water was bad due to the freeze temp, and running straight antifreeze was also bad do to the same reason. This is why you should run a mix, I have always run a 50/50 mix here in the heat of Texas. I think that the antifreeze bottles have a mixture chart on the back of them but I do not have one and can not remember. As far as the amount, I would agree. Just fill it up and watch the level, I also would keep some in the overflow bottle.

I wouldn't be so lucky to have found an R180 3.7 LSD would I? If they are R180 how much do you want?

Sorry I have not gotten back to your email yet, I will just answer it here so that eveyone can benefit from the information. Places I have looked for Z cars in this area include the following: This site's For Sale forum Hybridz's Buy/Sell/Trade forum Zcar.com's Classified Ads ZDriver.com's For Sale forum, the one under the 240Z,260Z,280Z link Autotrader's Collector Car section eBay, use caution as the cars are not always as nice as they seem Capital Z of Texas' Classifieds, Austin's Z car club Z Club of Houston's Buy & Sell ads Z Club of Texas' Zs For Sale ads, this is Dallas' Z car club Z-Sport Club of San Antonio's Z Dealz ads Brazos Valley Z Club's classifieds, honestly this one sucks, it has not been updated in over 3 years but you may be able to make some contacts there that may help you ZCCA, this has links to almost every local Z car club nation wide which will help you with the surrounding states All of these sites have numerous links off of them too. You will find yourself imursed in the Z world VERY quickly as I did. Searching of a car is a time consuming process but if you stick to your guns and keep on looking you will find what you want. I can tell you that 240Zs in this area are slim pickins, I searched for just over 5 months before finding a good one in my budget (problem is all the good inexpensive ones seem to be in California). Now you said that a 260Z is preferred, this may be just a tad easier to find as they are not as desired but then again they were only made for one year. If you are willing to take a 280Z then you should have far less trouble finding one as these are much more plentiful, even in these parts. Well any how, these links should be enough to get you started. I would also keep an eye on the newspaper classifieds. OH! If you happen to drive by one you are interested in stop and talk to the owner or leave a note, they just may be willing to sell it...this is how I found my 240Z. :classic: Watch out for rust!! That's the worst thing that can happen to a car, everything else can be replaced but rust is expensive to cure. Welcome to the club and best of luck in your quest for a Z.

Is SSR a brand name? Are you talking about 14 or 15 SSR wheels? Where might I start to look for a pair?

I'm curious about this. Can someone explain why smaller is better? I know bigger is not always better but in this case why is smaller better? I was thinking that a good light 15" would have been better than the 14" that is on the car.

*bump* This show is this weekend!!

Wow, I have not seen Hooker header for the Z advertised and now this one and the one at the following link on eBay which I just saw last night. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33631&item=2432528746

How good a condition are you looking for and how much are you wanting to spend? I may have what you want.

I got my AC Delco at O'Riley's for $50, it's the middle of the road stand that will hold up to 750lbs. For $40 you can get the next step down that holds 500lbs at many places as mentioned above. Make sure you get the right bolts, I have to return to the store 4 times before they got it right! The problem I had was the thread pattern, for my L24 it uses 10mm by 1.5 and what ever length you need for your stand. Your bolts should be the same seeing as how the tranny is interchangable through all the L series engines and you are mounting to the tranny bellhousing locations.

So how big can you go before you have to do other mods (coil-overs, flares, etc.) 15", 16", 17", etc.? Also what is the offset?

$45/tire is a great deal, I have forgotten how cheap small tires are (I just paid $106 for a truck tire yesterday...one tire). Anyhow, for autox are the Falken Azenis the best tire for the money? I will need a set of tires for autox and that's all they will be used for, I have two sets of wheels and the other set will have my daily street tires on them so tread wear is not as big of a concern to me.

I would be interested in browsing PDK Racing's site to see the other products you have. Can you give us the URL?

26th-z, man if you create molds for some of the NLA parts and bang a few out I bet you'd more than pay for the time and materials that it took you to create the molds; and a lot of fellow Z owners would be very happy that they could replace their old broken pieces. Let us know how this works out!

Man you're the one who didn't hold up your end of the agreement! You asked what I wanted and said you'd hold it, I told you and asked what you wanted, I went to the store and bought your beer (something I will never drink), and told you when I'd be there (even had my check book with me to offer some cash for the parts too). I'd have to say that you're the one to avoid. Sorry that you think no one does what they say so neither do you, but if I agree to something then that's what happens. Too bad everyone does not keep their word. 26th-z, while I do agree for the most part I like most of us have a job and can not run out in the middle of the day to drive 1.5 hours for parts (I truely wish I could). He offered to hold the parts, I did not ask. Furthermore, if he had told me the previous week where he lived I would have been there a week earlier. Unfortunately, he was 5 days in replying to my request for his location and thus the weekend was gone (he replied on Tuesday). He is very quick to reply to try and defend himself though. I try to act as quickly as i do know that there will be a line that forms VERY quickly. *shrug* my loss.

This guy posted this stuff on another forum also and said that he'll hold parts for me? I replied telling him exactly what I want and when I'll be there to pick them up and offering his preferred compensation? Well he's a lier! He held nothing for me and did not bother to tell me this until I was walking out the door Sunday morning! This guy has no integrity as far as I'm concerned. If you offer to hold parts then don't do so that rather rude and just plain sucks. I guess he got what he wanted, an empty garage...but at what cost? I know some of you here may have got parts from him and that's great for you but I wouldn't expect him to do anything he says he will so be cautious if you deal with this person in the future. He even started off bad with me by waiting almost a week to tell me where he lived, if I had known sooner I would have been there a week earlier and there would have been no problem. I was the first on that forum to ask about the parts and nearly the first on the other boards he posted them on. This is just my experience and my opinion. Very dissapointing. :disappoin Links to other posts: hybridz and zcar

Mine is a 240Z zmefly. I'm not too concerned though, I'll be replacing the engine with an F54 block (flat top pistons) and N42 head soon. Double clutching sounds tricky and like something you must practice a lot to get it right. It also sounds very hard on the car, the clutch especially.

nutxo, off topic a little but since you mentioned it I must know. What is double clutching??? I've heard the term before but never know what it was. Now on a similar note, my compression readings are 120, 120, 120, 120, 40, 120 (give or take a few, it was done a couple months ago and I don't remember the exact numbers). So except for that one cyl the car seems to have worn evenly much like yours. The low cyl is a ring problem, we poured some thick oil in there and the compression jumped in like with the others or better.

Please be kind, I'm new to the terminology too. If the lobes are the shiney parts of the cam that make contact with the rocker arms (is that the right name?) then you are correct, there is no rust on that area only between them and also really only near the front of the cam. What is the rod that runs parallel to the cam that I indicated has rust on it too? What's it's function/purpose?

Say! I just thought of something. You say that this will rev a couple hundred RPMs higher on the highway. I have also read that a lightened or an aluminum flywheel will reduce low end torque and RPMs as well are increase top end speed. If a lightened or an aluminum flywheel is used with a 4.11 wouldn't you net about the same results as a 3.9 while saving a little weight too?

Are the manifold studs available from somewhere? How do you remove them and install new ones (a special tool)? As long as I can find the coolant connector that should be a no brainer to replace. On the rust, am I correct in assuming that I should do my best to not allow it to fall onto the head when cleaning it off? I'm very new to engine work and do not know how clean thigs must stay so as to not cause any problems later on.

Some pix and your location would help you sell this stuff, everyone will ask any how.