texasz

Here's your mounting bolt kit: https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/datsun-240z-air-cleaner-bolts

I have heard good things about the Falken Azenis for many years.

I like this one! I just used it to compare the OE tire size to the new tire size on our Tundra and got the info I wanted. Thank you for the link!!

Glad to have been able to help. 🙂

Perfect although now I have another question... The small hose coming from the block breather tube flows TO this check valve which the directs flow to the air cleaner. The large hose that comes off of the block breather tube flows to the balance tube between the carbs (see pic for both). This seems redundant to me. What am I missing or not understanding? For anyone wanting to use these pictures in the future I've corrected the flow arrows through the check valve (see pic below).

I have a few related questions... What is the direction of flow towards the engine (the direction of the arrows in picture)? Is there a check valve in that block that only allows flow in the direction of the arrows (see picture)? If both of the above are true would it be alright to have both hoses coming out of the that block go to the air cleaner?

Yes, I'll be holding on to and reusing those. Satin black, thank you for that tid bit! I replaced nearly all the fuel hoses in the rear of the car this past weekend and found several of the OE hose clamps missing and in their place the typical style you would buy at any auto parts store (worm screw style). Time to keep an eye out for any OE ones I can get a hold of on the cheap to have refinished when I do a full restoration later down the road.

@SteveJ and @jfa.series1 for the info, using what you both provided I found the line and am attaching pictures of where it goes under my hood. Clearly there have been issues, you can see the dry/cracked hoses and electrical tape on one (assuming this is because it was cracked through), also the fact that one of the hoses is missing (I'm guessing this is the one that would go to the air cleaner housing). Something that will be interesting is what to do with the hose that currently goes to the crank case breather because my new engine (an L28) does not have a provision for this, it only accommodates the one large hose. Any thoughts on that?

The "air supplier tube" is #13 in the attached diagram. What purpose does it serve? Where does it go (looks like towards the engine bay)?

Ask him if he has them, KlasicFab's website does not have everything available listed...just reach out and ask him. 🙂

I was under mine replacing some fuel lines in the rear today (with the fuel tank out). HLS30-08215 has body color (paint only) on the under side at least in the rear where the fuel tank goes.

Auto Panel Solutions is in the UK so you may want to check KlasicFab first.

Check out https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/ this guy has many pieces that other places do not. It sticks in my mind that KlasicFab may have these also, https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/?swoof=1&product_tag=240z&really_curr_tax=37-product_cat I'd start with these two, I'd be willing to bet one if not both will have what you need.

Not my car unfortunately, pix were grabbed from the internet as examples.

When I removed the old fuel filler neck I noticed some sort of seal on the underside where it screws to the body. I'm guessing that this is to help prevent exhaust fumes from entering the cabin. What should be used to help seal this when installing the new fuel filler neck? See pictures for location I'm talking about.

As I look back over this thread we should have asked you for a picture of the broken handle so we could have helped you better.

This has been my experience also.

Yep, I've done this myself over the years. 🙂

No that is not exactly what I meant. As I described above, bending the lines to go where you now need them to is ONE solution. The better solution in my opinion is to grab the lines from the same series (1 or 2) as the master cylinder that way the are already bent to go where they need to go. Compare your picture above to this one and I think it will become clear. When the master cylinder changed in 1972 Datsun also made new lines from the master cylinder to the distribution block (again, compare the two pictures). I hope that this clears this up. I just did this very swap a few months ago so this is all quite fresh on my mind still. 🙂

Ok. I thought I had done it that way once though I've not done door handles in years so I could be mistaken. Still, what part of reinstalling them specifically is giving you troubles and we can help guide you through it.

I have replaced a few door handles on the S30 and never once removed the glass, that is not necessary. The new one goes in just the reverse of the old one coming out. Depending upon how well you can reach your hands up into the door shell and what tools you have available you may want to attach the rod to the handle before installing the handle, I've done it both ways. Are you having troubles with a particular part of the installation?

It your picture the master cylinder has the output for the front brakes in front and for the rear brakes in the rear. Are you saying that the other master cylinder is different in that the output for the front brakes is in the rear and for the rear brakes is in the front? If this is the case the modification that is to the lines that come out of the bottom of the master cylinder. One solution is to bend the existing lines, this has risk of braking/kinking them. Another solution is to replace the lines from a later Z (this is what I did when I installed the Wilwood 1" which had the outputs swapped from what the stock master cylinder was). And the last solution is to buy bulk brake line and bend up/make your own new lines (or I think a couple people have used flexible brake hoses here). In your case what you probably want to do is source the original lines from an early car to return to stock...if you are going for stock which it sounds like you are.

This and the fact that I kept getting redirected to Dana when browsing the Spicer website got me curious so I did a little digging and this is what I found... In 1904, Clarence W. Spicer, engineer, inventor, and founder of the company, began manufacturing universal joints in Plainfield, New Jersey. Also in 1904, the first C.W. Spicer "u-joints" were shipped to Corbin Motor Company in Connecticut. In 1905, Spicer Universal Joint Manufacturing Company was incorporated.[3] In 1909, the company changed its name to Spicer Manufacturing Company. In 1910, Spicer relocated to South Plainfield, New Jersey.[3] In 1914, Charles Dana joined the company. In 1922, Spicer was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. In 1925, Spicer expanded internationally taking a holding in licensee in England, Hardy, renamed Hardy Spicer. In 1946, Dana became president and treasurer, and the company was renamed the Dana Corporation. Spicer becomes the brand name for the company's driveline products.[4] References: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spicer_Manufacturing_Company https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_Incorporated

@240260280, I've found that as well as a 1310 series. I'm having troubles 1) determining what I have as I'd like to match as closely as possible and 2) the difference between the two series (I cannot seem to locate info on the 1500 series you posted only the 1310) and finally 3) contact info for Spicer/Dana where I could call/chat/email them to get more info, all of their contact info pushes you to retailers. That being said, I may just make a trip to the local auto parts store to see if they can help. @Patcon, this may be a good option...I'll look into that. Thank you everyone for all the help thus far! 🙂

I was able to grab a picture of some code(s) on the center yoke. Does anyone know that these mean?