texasz

First off I'd like to say that the support is a wonderful thing to see considering many if not all of you have never met him, I myself only met him last Sunday when I drove the 4 hours to see his car as I was considering buying it. So I can't say that I even know him either. Point being, no body knows him but we all do care about our fellow man. Now on to the update. Here is a direct quoted email from his sister that I got this morning: "Thank you for the prayers! so far, Ernie doesn't need surgery and will be moving out of the ICU soon (possibly tomorrow). He is recovering and doing well. the doctors are keeping an eye on him, and ernie is not feeling any major pain. this is the first time ernie has been in a hospital so his alittle embarrassed! ) we're still taking care of him and we thank you for your concern and prayers! they are very much needed! we will keep you informed. God BLess! andrea +JMJ ps. we think he will be fine, no broken bones or scratches, it was internal bleeding but it seems to have stopped by itself.(Thank God!) he has to stay in bed for the next couple of days."

It is with a heavy heart that I inform you all that one of our members was in what sounds to be a bad accident Friday night in his '73 240Z. The member is fstr240z and his sister told me today that he is in ICU with internal bleading. She did not say any more except to include a pic of the car where the impact occured...driver's door. She asked that I keep him in my prayers and I thought that you all may want to do the same...one can never have too many people pulling for them. I have attached the pic of the car just so everyone can get an idea of just how serious his injuries could be.

Just to make sure that I get the right thing I really would need to know the size. I may end up at a hardware store to get them and they will have no clue what head bolts are.

I'm picking up an engine today and will be putting it on an engine stand at the guy's house since he has a hoist and I don't. However, I have no idea what size bolts I will need to attach it! Please help, I need to get the bolts before I get to his house. Oh! The engine is from an '82 280ZX

Tell us about the car and how much you want for it in the meantime.

And the search goes on. This is a rather time consuming, frustrating, and disappointing process. I know that it will all pay off in the end when I find the right one, but man I wish it would come along soon.

Ok bambi, I see this but what does it mean? What difference does this make?

If I'm understanding you correctly you turned it on today and you could hear music but once you touched the volume (either up or down) the sound stopped but the radio was still on. If this is correct it sounds to me like an internal problem with the radio; specifically the volume knob/mechanism.

How about some pix and a price?

I had sent him an email prior to posting this and just got a response too. But I also wanted some third party input, you know someone who's not trying to make money off what they are selling. I also was looking for info on difficulty level of installation (I can not do this so I would have to pay someone). Anyone in Austin looking to make a few bucks if I do buy this car? :classic:

Anyone who has used these please help! On a '73 240Z how much of the floor does this replace? I'm looking at a car that has rust back past the front seat mount. Please see pix of driver and pass side floorpans in my gallery.

Wow, that seems to be a pretty good understanding considering that you were the one who was confused in the beginning. I'll have to keep this info handy as I will have to make decisions on what to put in my Z...once I find one that is.

Ok, now I know that I will get many opinions on this but lets try and stick with the facts and proven set up. 1) Best combination for street/highway driving? 2) Best combination for autox? 3) Best combination for quarter mile? 4) Best combination for top end speed? By combination I mean tranny and rear end. Personally I plan on running an L28 with a F54 block on carbs. If there are any special concerns between an L24 and an L28 engine please share but otherwise the questions pertain specifically to the tranny and diff.

Cheap is $400 for the car, blown engine (not in car, has thrown rod), engine has E88 head, auto tranny (in car), no carpet or plastic trim inside (all removed), seats, two sets of SU's (one round top, one flat top), front and rear bumpers (not attached), rear window louvers (not on car), no title (nor is the seller the titled owner), all glass is perfect, dash is cracked, has all gauges (working condition is unknown), seems to have all emblems, needs paint but body apears to be straight. I have only seen pix so far. I have pix at home that I can post tonight. Yes, I do have a garage but would prefer not to fill it with 1000s of car parts for months or years while building a car from the gound up. I do have some tools but not everything that I would need. Pockets are not deep, I have a hard spending limit of $2000. For this I need to have a running car in my driveway that I can enjoy and autocross on weekends.

Yes, mperdue, I do want to be able to drive it sooner than later. Holly cow! I didn't think that there'd be THAT much to do; I mean I knew that there'd be a lot to work on but from what I've read here I would almost have to strip it down to a bare chasis and start to build the car back up. And I thought that one of the worst things was that I'd have to convert it from and auto to 5-speed. Some day when I have the space to do this kind of thing I may consider it but for now I will have to pass on that project. This is a bummer as the car is supposed to be nearly rust free and is cheap! Damn, looks like the search continues...

Is that 280 dash in a car you own? I would like to see some more pix, close ups of the center mostly! I'm curious what all the gauges and switches are for.

I know that the basics of this have been answered and I have that information. My question is more specific. I am going to physically inspect a 240Z that I may buy and need some information on what to look for. Now I'm not talking rust and the other basics. This car has no engine, and has not been on the road in many years so I need to know what additional items I should inspect carefully that you may not on a driver. Then if I do get it what should I expect to have to do to make it drivable and safe for the road (other than put an engine in it of course :stupid: )? The seller has already told me that the tires are not in good shape, the hatch rubber should be replaced (and I assume that the door rubber should be too while I'm at it), the seal around the windshield is dry-rotting so it needs replaced too. In short, what items do I need to pay special attention to when looking at a Z that has not been on the road in many years and what should I expect to have to do to make it road worthy?

Ok, so I got the quote some time ago and I'm just now getting to posting the info; sorry. Here's what I asked for: Quote1 - I bring you a running engine you swap Quote2 - I bring you a working tranny you swap Quote3 - I bring you a running engine and working tranny you swap both at same time Quote4 - you find a running engine and swap Quote5 - you find a working tranny and swap Quote6 - you find a running engine and working tranny and swap both at same time Quote7 - you find non-running engine and rebuild then swap Quote8 - you find non-working tranny and rebuild then swap Quote9 - you find non-running engine and non-working tranny and rebuild both and swap at same time. Here are the specs for what I want: ENGINE: an '81-'83 L28 non-turbo motor (this will have flat top pistons) which will be an F54 block and should have originally had a P79 head HEAD: an '81-'82 P90 head from a non-turbo TRANNY: a '77-'79 5-speed from a non-turbo Here's the quotes I got: Quote 1: You bring me a running engine and I install it. Labor Cost $ 495 Quote 2: You bring me a working tranny and I install it. Labor Cost $325 Quote 3: $627 Quote 4: Same labor rate as Quote 1 plus price of engine (est. $450) Quote 5: Same labor rate as Quote 2 plus price of tranny (est. $250) Quote 6: $1327 Quote 7: Rebuilt engine $1500, R&R engine $495 Quote 8: We are unable to rebuld transmissions. We only R&R with good used one. Quote 9: Please see quote 7 & 8

No one in the Austin area with a trailer? Anyone...

Is anyone out there interested in an '82 auto tranny? I'd rather not ship, I am in central Texas...it is currently in Houston. I know nothing about it other than it is attached to an engine I'm trying to buy and the seller does not want to seperate them and I do not want the tranny. The seller says that it pulls forward and reverse, it was in the car when he bought it and this is how he got the car on and off the trailer (driving it). If you are interested please tell me what you are willing to pay and tell me how you would like to get it (i.e. pick it up from me, pick it up from the seller, etc.). If this helps any I am in the process of buying a Z with an auto tranny (I think it's the original '73 tranny) and you would be welcome to that one too but neither I nor the seller know anything about this one as the car has not run in several years. It may be good or it may only be good for parts. If you want both you will have to make arrangements with me that do not include shipping!

What happened to the steal you found in CA for $1700? If you didn't buy it what's wrong with it? Maybe someone else here might be interested in it...like me. :classic:

Have a bar-b-q!

I hadn't thought to look him up on eBay, I have now added him to my 'blocked' on eBay as well so he will never be able to bid on anything I'm selling.

Bryan, you have a PM. :classic:

Ok, I did several searches in the forums I could think of and could not find this but I know that I've seen it in here before. Where is the casting code located on an L28 block and also on the head? I'm lookin at an engine and need to know what block and head it is...hoping that it's an F54 block with a P90 head. :classic: