kenmataya

Hello all, I'm looking for a good seatbelt refurbisher - I need new webbing installed on existing hardware. Anybody have a good vendor? Thanks, Ken

Hello all, Anybody use the AC delco oil pressure sensor? I went thru a couple of the brass ones with no luck, my mechanic gave me an old 1600 sensor which worked great, but now its leaking - need to replace. Thanks, Ken

the actuator arm was loose on the bottom of the barrel - all good!

yes, you can, thanks. Took off the panel ( not so easy since i have a speaker box... ) and sure enough, the screw on the bottom of the lock was backed out ( explaining why it had been hard to open ). problem solved.

went to open my hatch and won't open! it is unlocked..... its always been a hard push to get it open, but won't open a tall now. any hints/advice?

Thanks everyone for your help. Ken

problem solved. The discontinuity was inside the spade connector at the ballast resistor! I cut the spade connector off to start tracking the B/W line back into the harness ( i untaped the whole front of the harness ), and i thought "hmm let me check continuity on the bare wire". Sure enough, there it was. I had checked that both wires ( one to the pertronix ) were tight, but somehow the current wasnt flowing into the spade. So, put a new spade connector on and voila........ no clue how that works.

the switch is getting power - it runs in "start" position and also when i connect the red jumper below. i've checked switch to ballast - no continuity. cant see anything wrong with b/w wire, but i cant see most of it. anybody know which fuse b/w wire connects to at fusebox? i could check continuity there to narrow down the issue.

pulled the b/w wire from the ignition switch, connected directly to battery - same issue car runs in start position but not run position, so its not the switch. OK, added a jumper (red) from ig switch to ballast and car runs fine. so i've definitely got a bad lead between the ig switch and the ballast resistor - any clues/hints/ideas where that might happen? Or does anyone know where the line splits? ( as a bonus there are two indentical b/w leads heading back from the coil! ) So, i know what the problem is, i just dont' know where the problem is!

petty sure it isnt, there's no continuity between the b/w wire at the switch and the b/w wire at the ballast. I can run power directly to the b/w wire at the switch to test it tho.

OK, ran a lead directly from the battery to the blk/wht terminal on the ballast resistor - car runs. still not continuity between the b/w at the switch to the ballast terminal. So, i've got a bad line from the switch to the ballast - any ideas where that might be??

pulled the steering cover and pulled the ignition switch plug - tested continuity: green/white - closed circuit - good BLack/white coil and ballast - shows resisitance for just a second then open line...... ?? broken wire?

now its not running again - pos coil is .6V in on position. checking the schematic, it looks like the pertronix is taking power from the line running into the ballast resistor. Here's the schematic

checked the schematic - my tach works intermitantly.....

coil is not even attached to the ballast....

Ok, its running... Switched the blk/wh to a different spade on the coil.... Bad connection? This car has pertrononix, so wiring is weird. Theres one blk/wht directly to coil, another to the bottom of ballast. Theres a red wire attached at bottom of ballast that leads to dizzy. Top of ballast connects to grn/white that goes to front of car?? Coil reads 12v when running.

OK, voltage when cranking, none when on.... 3 ohms on the ballast resistor. ignition switch??

what resistance should i see at the resistor?

I was driving my 70 240z on the freeway, when its suddenly seemed to be out of gas ( it wasn't ). Towed it home, put some more gas in just to be sure, still won't run. It turns over, and will actually rev up - as long as the starter is still engaged. As soon as the starter is off the car dies. Any help appreciated here. Thanks, Ken

hello Z people, i need to replace the shock tower vinyl on my '70 Z, anybody have recommendations for aftermarket suppliers? Thanks, Ken

it looks like its getting blown back from the front of the engine, cleaned it up and don't see anything "new" leaking. just wondering if anybody else has had the same experience. Thanks, Ken

I rolled down to the z-bash in Orange a couple of weeks ago, when I got back home I found this: looks like I'm leaking oil from the front of the block somewhere - any suggestions? Thanks, Ken

another question, can i drive it to the z-bash ~ 30miles...

they are points type regulators, OEM style. I will check the alternator ground, although the schematic doesn't show a ground. not sure what would cause voltage spikes in an alternator?

returned the regulator to motorsport z, they sent me a new one, free of charge. installed it, all looked good. drove to the grocery store, still good. left the grocery store, back up to 35+ amps.... is there something else this could be?? thanks Ken