kenmataya

would like to keep it stock, i'll give the regulator one more try.....

problem not solved - fixed the wiring, started driving, everything looked good, 5 minutes in, ammeter jumps up to +35-40..... returning regulator.

problem solved - yellow wire into the connector was detached from the spade connector, making contact intermittently. thanks everyone for your help! Ken

drove it a bit today, ammeter was reading about +40 with the fan an lights on, needle started to jump around, now its reading exactly where it should.....

the alternator has been on the car for 2 years with a regulator, i'm pretty sure its OEM without an internal regulator. again, I don't think a bad alternator will overcharge, past the regulator if its functioning correctly. Has anybody else had issues with the regulators from Motorsport Z? Thanks, Ken

put in new regulator, everything looked fine - for about 5 minutes. ammeter back up to +35 amps at anything but idle. checked voltage at alternator - up to 17v when revving, but voltage at battery between 12-14V...

as indicated the alternator is putting out enough voltage, the sytem is overcharging, so I assume its the voltage regulator - replacing it this weekend.

i was driving my 70Z, and it started to sputter a bit at higher rpms, the tach was jumping around as it did. then i notice that the ammeter is pegged out at 45+ amps at anything above idle! the regulator was installed new in september 2012 ( from motorsport Z ), should this thing be bad already?? its reading 14V at the alternator, jumping to 17+ when i rev it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken

i can pick up the 3-wire clamp, for under $2.00, it should work fine - thanks!

guessing i can use the 3-wire spark plug wire holder? Thanks, Ken

afraid not, i contacted them and they are no longer able to get the part - i checked many other places with the same result. Thanks, Ken

can't find a forum for this, so i'll just ask here! looking for the small 2-wire plastic holder that is near the coil. can't seem to find online anywhere, any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Ken

Anybody know where I can get the the plastic wire holder that holds the coil wires? Thanks, Ken

Mike, Thanks for the quick reply. That's exactly what i was concerned about - the base of the mirror is angled for the drivers side... was hoping it came off the surface perpendicular so it would fit either side... looks like they only came with driver's side back in the day - so i'll have to stick with the aftermarket, unless i want a repaint...

i've got aftermarket mirrors on both sides of my 70Z, but i'd like to replace them with OEM. Will the OEM mirror work on both sides? Thanks, Ken

thanks! i've to the metal one in the car - its a beast, must weigh 5 lbs! it was making noise on the high setting, so was wondering if this one could be a solve. will leave the metal beast in there....

Hello all, I'm starting up a little club for classic imports in the pasadena, ca area. I'm setting up a first meeting for 8.17.13, if you're interested in attending please contact me at socalclassicimports.org for more information!

hello, can anyone confirm that the early series 240s (7/70) have a metal squirrel cage fan under the passenger dash - or should it be a plastic fan? thanks Ken

the m4x0.7 fit, but they're a squeeze ( using socket head screws because they're black ) the 8-32 is definitely not right. think these may be the same thread as the coat hangar hooks, whatever that might be......

anybody know what the thread is on the 4 screws that hold the heater/radio panel to the dash? Thanks, Ken

I put one on my 70, facing forward, with 1600 roadster style belts ( same as early 240, but chrome instead of black ). it may not be stock, but it certainly makes it easier to deal with the non-retracting seatbelts.

Thanks for everybody's input, i gave up and bought a new assy on ebay! Ken

update - turns out the big spring isnt the problem, switch works OK with spring in place. looks like the slots that the pins from the return arms slide in are preventing the switch from moving far enough. should i lengthen the slots?

ok, i've gotten into the switch a few times, bent down the contact tabs, etc. the problem i'm having is the slop in the nylon block that engages the pin that sticks out from the switch box - the nylon block inside the switch box just does not move far enough to push down the contacts. i pulled apart the switch and removed the big spring ( see image ) everything works fine. but i'm assuming that big spring kicks the blinker back to zero after the turn?

yes, thank you very much - very helpful. when i said flattening the rocker, i meant bending the tabs down so they are closer to the contacts. it seems like they're just not quite touching when the unit is assembled. will post the results! thanks Ken