kenmataya

thanks! that is pretty much what i suspected. so it looks like i need to open the box and flatten the contact plate ( with the 4 contacts ) a little. any tricks to the assembly disassembly? thanks, Ken

hello all, another turn signal switch question - i have a early signal switch (see image), it was working but has stopped and i swapped in a later model switch that works OK - it requires a bit of rewiring to work. when i use the lever to make the turn signal operate ( the switch is together ) it won't work, but if if i pull the switch box off and push the switch to either side it does work - i.e. the lever doesn't push the pin far enough to complete the circuit. so, has anybody pried the box open to solve this problem?

cool, saves me from stripping them - the bolt that hold the hood bumpers would be unpainted though - yes?

should the front fender bolts be painted, or un-painted? thanks, Ken

hello, this is an old thread, but bestine ( available at art supply stores ) will take off any adhesive without harming plastic. thanks, Ken

Hello all, I'd be interested in getting in on that! question - how do you get them off without breaking them?? Thanks, Ken

anybody know size and where to get the cloth braided hose from the valve cover to air intake? ( for less than $80 ) thanks, Ken

OK, had to deal with some personal business, but finally got the battery installed (bosch). ammeter now reading dead center, voltage at the alternator and battery around 12.5V - is that too low? ( i believe the cause of the first battery dying was replacing glove box light - the dash cap tends to push out the glove box door, not depressing the switch, leaving the light on )

OK, i'll try to answer these questions: 1. How old is your battery? unknown, looks a bit weathered - i've had the car since May. took the battery to Pep boys and they said it was bad. I've got a new bosch battery to put in. 2. Do you know how to use an ohmmeter? If so, have you checked for continuity between the battery negative and chassis and between the alternator E terminal and the chassis and between the battery negative and alternator E terminal? I'll check that, but i'm assuming its OK, the car was running fine for 10 months and i drove it 1500 miles when i bought it. 3. Use the 72 FSM and look through the EE section. Test output according to the FSM and tell us what you get. I'll do that 4. How old is the alternator? It could be on its last legs. also unknown, i'll have voltage info once i get the new battery installed. 5. Do you know how to use an ammeter? If so, is the battery discharging when the car is off? What is the current? (Make sure all lights are off, including the dome light and glove box light.) actually i just replaced the glovebox light which was burned out. i have a dash cap, and fit of the glove box is tight so i have to make sure the door closes. i'll take the bulb out till i get this straightened out. so, my question is if the battery is bad would that give me the strange ammeter readings? or if the ammeter is correct, would that fry the battery? (as i said, the voltage reg was replaced just a few months ago)

found some much older threads about this, but thought i would check for some fresh advice. My 70 240Z ammeter is either jumping around between 0 and 45 or its pretty much pegged out. when its pegged out my interior lighting is nice and bright, but the headlights don't seem any different. and it always runs the same. I've just replaced the voltage regulator with a unit from the z-store a few months ago, because i was getting 20V when i was checking the blinker wiring. Now the battery isn't holding a charge ( i'll take it down to be tested tomorrow ) - could that be causing my problems? i checked the voltage at the alternator and it was about 12.8V at idle. thanks, Ken

Thanks Dan, I'll let you know.

George, any chance you could send me the dimension for the distance between the j-hook bolt and the top screw on the seat bracket ( center to center )? trying to figure out where the hole is for the j-hook but I can't feel it. thanks, ken

yes, here's the owner manual page for the 1970 240Z. George's style in correct. I got some roadster belts which are the same style but chrome with a grey insert, and they have a milky plastic belt keepers ( the thing that holds the belt end together with the belt ) i'm guessing they keepers should be black like yours, Steve.

george, could you post a picture of the full belt? thanks! Ken

any body have an image of the correct shoulder belt for early 240z? thanks! Ken

Mike, that's what i've got - tag says "datsun sports", so they're probably from the roadster. they are the correct style, but chrome. the OEM shoulder belts in the car also have chrome ends, so i'll stick with the chrome till i see a set of black ones become available.... ( ha ha ) thanks, Ken

Dan, the buckle is definitely chrome plated, so I'm pretty sure that's stock, and I'll leave that. the greenish grey piece is zinc and has been painted ( this one is better than the other side ), which is chipped off a bit, not really textured. Thanks for the feedback!

Ok, found some original style belts on ebay... got them the other day. chrome and belts are OK, but part of the female end seems to have been painted and its chipped ( see image ) - should it be painted, if so, does anybody know the color? its a greenish grey....

hello, hoping somebody can help me here. I've got an early 70 (vin 5335) and i'm trying to get the belts cleaned up - i have the original shoulder belts - the lap belts are replacement. it seems the anchor bolts are 7/16-20" (?) i was hoping somebody could tell me how these things go together? i'm assuming the shoulder belt anchor should be able to rotate once assembled. the drivers side bolt goes in several turns then stops, the passenger side doesn't stop. i would also assume you don't want to tighten down on the plastic interior panel, but the bolt still needs to tighten against something. one side had a plastic bushing as well. btw, does anybody know what the thread is on the coat hangers???

question: the z-store doesn't have the PCV hose for 70 240z, but they do have it for 71-72. they look very similar, does anybody know what the difference is between the two?

not sure why its so difficult to get one that's actually waterproof!

keep me posted! i have to wash my cars everytime it rains - hardly worth having a cover.

i've gone thru every car cover at Pep boys, and none of them are actually waterproof - has anybody purchased a car cover that's waterproof and works?? any help is appreciated! Thanks, Ken 70 240Z

i would guess its because the high beams draw more amps than the low beams. the circuitry on these cars is definitely a bit odd.