SCCA_racer

TrojanOreo YGPM thanks Bryan

I would like some pics of the car.

Thanks for the nice note and happy new year. Enjoy the bar! Bryan

Thanks for the e-mails, but a Canadian was fast with the cash and it is his. Shipping it out today. Unless Santa picks it up on his trip back north, I am not sure how long it will take to make the trip but I will just have to trust UPS. Happy holidays! BC

If you want the bar please PM me or email me off the board. I have not yet had anyone say that they want it for sure. Lots of interest. But nobody is sending me money yet. I would love to get it out of my truck before Christmas(I loaded it up to take it in to be weighed). I am driving to Dallas this week if anybody there wants it. I could deliver it for free! That is a $50 savings!

weight is 53 lbs dimensions are 52x23x12 Looks like UPS to the greater extents of the US is about $50 (not including any packing materials)

I will try to get the measurements but I am not sure where to weigh it. I may be able to find the weight on a dealer webpage. I will post it here when I get it. thanks Bryan

Here is the other view out of the car.

Here are a couple of pics out of the car. I have reconsidered my asking price to make this more attractive. $200 you pick it up. $225 plus shipping(extra $ is tocover expense of lashing it to a pallet or whatever to ship it) Email or post with any questions. Bryan

I am in Austin Tx and could deliver it within a reasonable distance (Dallas, San Antonio, Houston, Corpus Christi) I Know that it fits the 70-78's. I could guess that it might fit the ZX as well since it shares a listing with that car in the catalog, but beyond that I would guess that it is a matter of luck. It does not share a PN with any of the other yeasr of Z's so I would not try it.

Used, good condition Autopwer 4 point NHRA, SCCA legal roll bar. This can be used as the rear half of a full legal cage by adding the Autopower "u-weld-it" kit. Bolts in and includes backing plates. Requires drilling holes but no fabrication needed. Hardware included. I am just trying to offset the cost of going to a custom cage on my new car. This would be a very nice safety item in a high power street car (especially a wild V8 swap that needs a bar for drag racing). I will get some pics of it out of the car and post them in my gallery as time allows. Please feel free to reply or e-mail with questions. I am asking $300 but would entertain other offers, especially if I don't have to ship it. (it is hefty) Pic attached is of it installed in my old race car. You can see that it has an added crossbrace for seat back braces and to stiffen the chassis. It could be removed for street use.

Mark, The car sounds phenomenal, but doesn't sound like much of a Z anymore. You have a Z body and a collection of Z parts hanging around, but it sounds like you have a custom drag car that happens to remain street legal. This is totally an opinion thing, but without a Z motor, tranny, suspension, or frame you would have a tough time claiming a Z pedigree. Sounds like big fun and lost of suprises for anybody that thinks they will give you a run on the street. ciao Bryan

Tell us what you mean by SBC? 350, 383, 400? Unless you are making some SERIOUS hp those numbers seem almost impossible, though it does look like you are also developing some pretty serious traction. Congrats, you are well on your way to having the quickest street driven hybrid Z. Bryan

Sorry I lost the thread and only now figured out how to search all of my previous posts. I found something odd, I have two regulators from an earlier 280 that are the 240/260 style doors and I have three or four regulators of a later style. Any idea which type you need? Can you send me a picture of your door with the trim off and or a picture of the regulator you need to replace? I don't want us to discover I am selling you the wrong thing. If you have found another source while I lost your e-mail that is cool, and sorry. Bryan

Well, the fastest Z I have seen and ridden in must be Steve Webb's "stealth Z" up in Dallas. The car is a 71 with a 280 ZXT motor. Last time I saw the car it was in the 400 hp 400 ft lb neighborhood and has always been an ongoing project. Maybe a member in Dallas has seen the car more recently. For all I know it has been destroyed by its prodigous power and insuffucient traction. It was a beast and was capable of keeping up with modified single turbo Supras and wicked 300ZX TT's. I could not find any timeslips but there is lots of info at http://zhome.com/rnt/StealthZ/swebbA1.htm A nice example of keeping a straight six and getting CRAZY power.

The switch has 4 terminals, not positions. One set is for killing the battery one set is for killing the alternator. The switch is rated for the application. I forget, but the peak load rating is ridiculous. If you use an applciation that allows you to zoom in, the image is legible. thanks for trying, Bryan

My 70's era Porsches also have this. It is not meant for a cruise, but allows you to set a higher idle while the engine warms up. I have heard of people using them as a cruise control, but I believe that the Porsche spec is that it should cuase the engine to idle at 3500 rpms warm with no load. I doubt that would be much help as a cruise control. Congrats on the find! Bryan

I am upgrading my race car from a 2 pole to a 4 pole kill-switch. The switch comes with diagrams for a one wire or a field alternator style of installation. Difference being that one breaks the connection from the field wire to the positive pole of the battery with its auxiliary terminals while the charge wire is interrupted by the break in the main fuse block. The other interrupts the charge wire to positive pole only and omits the field wire. Am I missing out and this is just showing me how two different alternators will be wired? It would appear if this is the case that I need the field wire style. Am I right? There are two diagrams but NO instructions or explanations with this thing and I don't want to ruin anything or burn up my car before I get it back on the track. I have attached a pic of the diagrams. Thanks Bryan

I am upgrading my race car from a 2 pole to a 4 pole kill-switch. The switch comes with diagrams for a one wire or a field alternator style of installation. Difference being that one breaks the connection from the field wire to the positive pole of the battery with its auxiliary terminals while the charge wire is interrupted by the break in the main fuse block. The other interrupts the charge wire to positive pole only and omits the field wire. Am I missing out and this is just showing me how two different alternators will be wired? It would appear if this is the case that I need the field wire style. Am I right? There are two diagrams but NO instructions or explanations with this thing and I don't want to ruin anything or burn up my car before I get it back on the track. I have attached a pic of the diagrams. Thanks Bryan

Sorry to hear that you aren't " that far yet"! I looked at my 280 and it looks like the radiator support may be high enough to make a decent mount. That was one concern. I may give it a go, but want to get the big issues resolved before I start "tweaking". BTW I used bolts to mount the reinforcing tabs and they worked well. Just need to make sure that they don't align with the path of the pin, or that the heads are short enough not to interefere. Bryan

That is a really cool idea! Do you have your front pins mounted on the upper radiator support? I may give this a try now that I have an idea of how to battle some of the downsides of using just pins.

I have kept mine hinged, but my main concerns is not pin location, but securing the reinforcement disk. It has been suggested that I use small machine screws or bolts. This seems sensible. I located my rear pins in the same location as the car you sent. It allows you to take advantage of the reinforced corners of the hood as well as the lip that already exists makes a good mounting location for the pins themselves. I did have to grind off the bosses where the hood stops had previously screwed in so that I could mount the pins in almost that exact location. Good luck. I will shoot some pics of mine when it is done. Bryan

There was a user on Zcars.com looking for a tank. You may want to take a look there in the wanted section to see if you guys can work something out. Good luck Bryan

I had several grid workers require me to re-latch my hood when it was just riding on the catch. The rules don't say how it must be attached, but the hood pins give me the control I want. If need be I can raise the pins to get the semi-popped effect of the safety catch with the certainty of being fully secured. It certainly was never a safety issue, but tech can vary wildly depending on the person and their mood. As to whether it helps... I have a later car so I already have hood vents. I would guess that Datsun did this to improve cooling, but I am not sure if the location of the vents versus having the trailing edge popped up in a high pressure area makes a big difference. I know that running the car static with just a large shop fan on the radiator that having the hood up seems to make little difference on the heat in the engine compartment, but aerodynamics are totally different there. Good luck, maybe a louvered hood is your answer (or a later style hood) Bryan