Searsgremlin

I live in ct and ran across a yard im mass with 1000+ old cars rotting away every thing from 57 chevy's and nomads and 70/71 chevelles to dodge darts mustangs buick skylarks and even older stuff from the 30 and 40s. Point being there were 3 z's one was a later 74 260z, a 240z not sure what year i think 72/3 and i believe a 280z not 100% sure tho. The bumpers for the 240z were pulled off but inside the car, they were in great shape because of this! I ended up buying the bumpers, a dash cover, and center console with an armrest for 300. if anyone wants the location i can find out.

I have my 67 chevelle parked in a house we rented out and it got the fenders doors and quarters kicked in by the nice tenants. Anyways the z looks pretty good for a start, good luck with the contest. Also i have 2 240z parts cars so if ur in need of any parts let me know.

well luckily i was able to put together a set of carbs. i did it with out a rebuild kit so there not 100% but after the swap she runs 90% better. it kind of strange after all the work put into the motor they didnt put a header on it.

Today at 9 in the morning i got my 4th z car. its just basically a parts car but still. anyways heres my question of the day, the previous owner rebuilt the motor, .030 over bore, stock compression, phase 1 cam, new timing chain, ported and polished head and intake, new oil pump, flushed radiator, and malery dual point dizzy. he says it cuts out mid range rpm, pops thru the carbs, fouls plugs, and lacks power. also says he has changed the jets, advanced curve in dizzy, checked cam timing with degree wheel and the motor still runs poorly. This is on a 73 240z with a e88 head. and it is running 32-36 dgv weber carbs. i heard these carbs weren't the best. On my 260z i had trouble with it running, but i had su carbs that were way out of tune. and once i repaired them it was a world of difference So anybody have any suggestions?

I got my z almost 6 months ago since then i have made afew changes. heres a bunch of pics of what i have done so far. i will add when i do more to it. this is when i first got the car. i got it from boston mass, it came from texas so has no rust. when i got it it had carb problems and would not go past 70 on flat high way and would not go past 30 up hills. I fixed all the dry rotted hoses first, then added the body parts and it needed new struts badly so i ended up lowering it in the process. at the same time i replaced the break booster and master cylinder. i also fitted a 240z grille in. i changed out some interior parts from a parts car. then i traded some parts for a header. once i had a spot in the garage i pulled of the header and carbs. rebuilt cleaned and painted everything. also i ported the intake a very little bit. after that it ran perfect. when i pulled the old header off a few of the studs were broken off and about half the bolts were loose. and the gasket had silicone on it! but long story short i was able to fix it all. the most current pics are the ones with the slotted mags. i got those off a 240z parts car i got, i was just waiting on my lugs. im 16 and this is the car i have spent the most time on. i've done all the work by myself. i love driving it, especially to school kids always ask me what kinda car it is and give me complements. thanks for looking!

Just got my car running nominal but i noticed my heater core is bad. i already got a new one, but was wondering what it takes to replace it. like do i have to pull the dash? any info would be a big help thanks for reading.

I have a set of old mesh style volkracing wheels. they are 3 peice wheels that bolt together. I want to take them apart to clean them but want to make sure that they will still be able to be balanced when i re-assemble them. What i panned on doing was just taking out the mesh center and leaving the two wheel hoop halfs together and mark the mesh part so when i removed it i would put it back in the same location that it was when i took it out. http://s1002.photobucket.com/albums/af141/searsscreamer/?action=view&current=IMAG1181.jpg

just noticed that one of my carbs drips gas out of the air horn while the car is running! Any ideas on whats causing that, i know that it is a carb problem but what exactly? Anyone ideas out there?

just changed the fuel filter, the one in it looked like it was from 74. also changed the oil and oil filter while i was at it. Prior to changing the fuel filter my z wouldnt even stay running, so that must have been a lot of the problem. Also thanks for the advice on the small brass filter in the fuel bowl lids. i checked and one of them was in good condition and on the other side there wasnt one. so i assume someone was "repaired" that carb. luckely i have a parts carb that had the filter, so i cleaned and installed it. Also i tightened down on the screws on the fuel bowl lid and the idle went up. I still have yet to take it for a test drive. but next i plan on buying the tools to adjust the carbs, Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks for all of the help

Thanks for the comments, I ruled out the distributor problem, seems that it was idling around 1100 rpm's while in gear around 20 degrees. so i re adjusted the distributor and its running around 600 rpm while in gear around 8 degrees. and its right around 30 degrees at 2500 rpm. after the adjustments to the timing, i took it for another test drive and it still cuts out. now that i know its not a problem with the vacuum on the distributor or the timing, im going to try the fuel filter at the gas tank next. ill up date when i change the filter.

i eliminated the filters and changed all the rubber hoses. Also i noticed that one of my vacuum lines ran from the charcoal canister to the carb and then t's off to the distributor. so i was thinking that the pickups in my distributor might be ceased so i checked and they still move. my next thought was that there wasn't enough vacuum strength to move them. so i took a plug out of the fuel rail, got a fitting and ran a line directly from the rail to the distributor vacuum, thinking that it would provide enough vacuum to move the distributor pickups better than the charcoal canister did. so to finish it off i plugged the t where i took off the line that previously went to the distributor vacuum so i didn't have any vacuum leaks. After this i took it out for a test drive. I was able to get it up to 80 but it still cuts out and it seems to do it mostly when it has a load on it, such a full throttle or traveling up hill. could it be a poorly adjusted carb? it idles fine and accelerates great(until it has a "load" put on it) or could it be sucking air somewhere? Any other ideas?

I have a 74 260z and at high speeds (70mph) it cuts out or when you give it full throttle. Ive learned that one of the owners prior to me put a 70, 71, or 72 fuel rail on it and eliminated alot of the emissions parts. i attached a picture and you can kind of see what im talking about. it would help alot if i knew where the vacuum lines went originally. http://s1002.photobucket.com/albums/af141/searsscreamer/?action=view&current=IMAG0936.jpg

I plan on painting my z within the next few months, but can't decide on a color. I like the green and the gold because i don't see a lot of them that color. my car was originally gold and has a black interior. i know the gold would be easier and have a better off set with the black interior but i like the green just as much. whats everyone else think and dose anyone have pics of a gold z?

alright just wasn't 100% sure what style i have, and thanks ill check out the videos

What i have: i have a complete 280z motor 240z motor w/ the e31 head and a 260z motor with a e88 head The L24 needs a rebuild And i want to build the L26 motor because its already runs and is in my car. i just want to make a more power for the street and get a better sound. i haven't done any compression check also a lot of my vacuum lines are dry rotted and need to be changed.

i met some guy at a car show who said he went from his stock carbs to dgv's and he told me it made a big improvement. i dont know what style carbs he had stock.

Alright thanks for the link, i was under the assumption that the dgv's were easier to adjust and had better flow. I think i have su carbs, but not sure is there a way to tell? i attached a picture.