JeffMopar

OK, here is a pic. You can see the difference with the fuel line which is normal steel. Everything else is stainless.

That is pretty much what I used. I will upload a pic if I remember when I get home tonight. Mine was sourced directly from a Parker hydraulic store because I am good friends with one of the counter people. Got a great deal on straight lengths up to 20' if you can transport that long.

Doug, I used stainless throughout including the clutch, Its been 5 years with no issues. They still look beautiful. They were harder to bend and flare, but not that much more difficult. I just copied the original bends and lengths when I removed them. If you go with stainless make sure you get the better quality (316). Don't get 304 as it will surface rust. Jeff

240260280, Yes to suction, I will pull plugs when I get back out there. Thank You, Jeff

Just came in from the garage to have lunch. Started from the beginning and adjusted the RPM at full choke to 1450-1500 and made sure the carbs were balanced. Went through the full Syncing and Balancing process again, same results. Felt like no matter what I did the back carb wasn't getting fuel. Pulled the vent bung off to look inside the float body and used the WD-40 straw to push the float down, fuel immediately filled the bowl and overflowed. So I revved the engine to draw down the fuel level but the fuel didn't go down as much as I would think it should. I am going to pop off the choke linkage from the jet when I go back out and check to see if fuel is flowing freely through the hose from the bowl. Jeff Chickenman, you posted just as I was. Pistons are free and moving as they should, needles are not sticking. Checked manifold and carb bolts and sprayed to look for vacuum leak, nothing. Lifting front piston immediately stalls down engine lifting rear does absolutely nothing also covering air flow with my hand doesn't get any response that is why I think there is no fuel flowing as it should. Adding a pic in case anybody sees something obviously stupid that I missed.

Thanx to everyone for the replys. Mark, Yes, I have flow in the rear carb and I also made sure the chokes were moving smoothly up and down with the lever. Yes pushed up on jets to verify closed when choke is off. Captain Obvious, Chickenman, Yes I have the Unisyn balancer. Both carbs are adjusted to equal flow. I think that should have to mean the throttle plates are open close to equal. When I rev the engine it revs up fairly smoothly with a little desitation and the pistons move like they should. madkaw, I am going to re check the throttle plate movement and make sure the needle and float aren't intermittently sticking shut. I have a few extras to try, it cant hurt, just have to verify float level every change. Thank you to everyone for the help, I will let you know what I find. Jeff

They are not needed if you have a good filter. The fuel in the bowls is totally clean. I installed a filter below the floor pans out of the way and still use the original style so it looks stock. I am going to remove the vent bung tomorrow and check if there is enough room to see inside to verify fuel is entering to keep the bowl full after starting. It fires up very fast with the choke on so I am thinking maybe it is sucking fuel below the level it needs to maintain but the needle is sticking partly and not refilling fast enough.

I didn't think of the red straw idea. I will try that to see if the float is up. I completely rebuilt the carbs and removed the screens from the banjo bolt when disassembled. The only thing I can think of is that the float is sticking randomly, not all the time.

Yes there if fuel in the float bowl. I drained it and did a verification on the fuel height again to make sure it was correct. I am probably going to have to break down and take the carb off and disassemble it again to make sure everything is correct and clean. The car hasn't run since 1990 and I did a complete restoration. This is just working out the little bugs as you go and it gets aggravating. Thanks

Hello, Finally got some time to try to get the Z running. I have the original 3 screws that came on it rebuilt with Ztherepy kits. Got It to start fine and run without the choke after a little warming up. Idles at about 750 to 800. Started to adjust and balance the carbs and realized the rear carb isn't working. I can screw the mixture dial all the way out or in tight and there is no change at all. If I cover the carb with my hand or lift the piston nothing changes. The front carb adjustment works the way it should. I have set the float with the 10 turns down method and verified that the fuel is flowing to that level and stopping at the right height. But cant figure out what could be keeping the fuel from getting into the carb body the way it should!! Any help is appreciated. Thank You, Jeff

Hello All, Just a quick thought. Make sure your ground near the bulbs is clean and has a good connection. Having a bad ground shows as crazy syptoms when the power tries to find an alternate ground. Hope that helps. Jeff

I had the door switch wires labeled and they are hooked back up. I checked the rheostat and that is also still hooked up. I may just have to wait until the battery is in and hope for the best. The wiring diagram for this car is totally frustrating with the items not on my car or showing more wires then are there (door switches and combo switch).

Zed Head, I am going to use an ohm meter to check for ground and maybe to the fuses also. I don't want to hook the battery up until as much is connected as possible. Also when I put in the steering column maybe something will be obvious.

Thank you for the help. It is a single wire. I will check the rheostat as I didn't think of that before. The brake switch is hooked up already and the wires aren't black on my car (72 240Z). Maybe somebody will have their dash off or has pictures of the back when it was off to look.

Hello All, Well as usual, if all else fails fall back on the forum pros. I have the dash back in and I am hooking everything back up and installing the interior. There is a black wire with a bullet connector hanging next to the speedometer. It looks like it is coming out of the harness directly above the speedometer and the end is missing so I can't tell what was there originally. I don't see anything that looks like it is close in the wiring diagrams. See the picture for clarification on what I see. Of course it is the only wire unhooked and not labeled when it was removed!!! The next step is to pull the dash again but I don't know if that would really benefit me. If anybody has any idea what it is for I would really appreciate the help. Thank you, Jeff

Thanks for the replies, I was pretty sure it was a plug in my car and wanted to verify before installing the center console. Jeff

Just to put it out as an option. Thay were still available from Nissan part # 65100-N4200 it was $359.00 when I got mine a few years ago and no shipping.

Hello All, Trying to put the interior back in and I am not sure if the hole in the picture had something going through a grommet or just a plug. I cant find any pics that show it before I took it apart, all have something in the way. Any help is appreciated!! Thank you, Jeff

Thanks for the quick replys. I am heading over to the local Nissan dealer tomorrow and started pulling part numbers tonight, but the straight shifter in the picture threw me off.

Hello All, Well after searching the site I still cant find an answer to my question so I am going to post it. I have a 72 Type B 4-speed. I have to replace the 2 side bushings and the 1 bottom bushing. The Fische I have doesnt show the bent shaft shifter at all. Does anybody know if the part number for the bottom bushing is 32861-24900 or 32861-N4200 ? Or are they the same? Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thank You, Jeff

Thanx for all the replys. I have 2 original that I plan to reuse but one of the carpets was missing so I dont have those clips. I was hoping i could find 2 or buy them from somebody that had a spare pair. Jeff

Hello All, Well I finally got some time to work on the interior. I pulled all the old carpet out of the box to match up to the new pieces and realized the new didnt come with the 4 snaps that are needed to attach in the front. Does anybody know where you can get these or have a few left that they are not using? I've attached a pic to show exactly what I am looking for. I know I can use more modern styles but want to stick with the original. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thank You, Jeff

Ditto to Fred, If you need fenders and hood the local dealer is the way to go. Got mine a couple of years ago, perfect fit and no shipping cost. One came in slightly dented and they just ordered me another one, no problem. Try that with the aftermarket!! They send them, if damaged, oh well. Got my floors and frame rail under them from Zedd, Excellent quality. Good Luck, Jeff

Bruce, Thank you for the reply. Does removing it effect the drivability that much or do you just wait a few extra minutes for the carbs to warm up?

Nobody had this problem before? How did everybody install these without leaks?