JeffMopar
-
Posts
105 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Knowledge Base
Zcar Wiki
Forums
Gallery
Events
Downloads
Store
Blogs
Collections
Classifieds
Everything posted by JeffMopar
-
Well that makes finding a cap easier. The push button cap has been on there since I bought the car in the late 80s. I always figured it was the original cap as none of the receipts from the original owner showed it being replaced. I'll head over to the Nissan dealer with the part number on Monday to see what they can get. Thanks again, Jeff
-
Hello All, I've been going through boxes of parts and organizing so that it is easier to find things when i get to the point of reassembling my Z. This also includes making a list of parts that are needed. I pulled the radiator cap that was removed when the radiator went to be recored. Most of the bottom part where it seals is rotten away so I will need to replace it. I can not find an exact copy only the standard aftermarket replacement. Does anybody know if the attached pic is original and if so if they are available somewhere or what the accepted alternative is in a restoration. I dont mind using the newer style if that is all that is available but if the old style is out there it would look better. Thank You for any help, Jeff
-
Back to the original question about the parts. I recently picked up both fenders and the hood new from Nissan for under $1000. The bumper and lower valance will have to be found used. When you get ready to fix her up post part requests here, somebody may have something they are willing to sell or part with. Jeff
-
Yes, I removed the lock pins and soaked them in penetrating oil for a couple of hours. I was thinking of heating up the housing to help with removal but am a little leary about heating up suspension parts unless I have to.
-
Hello all, Well I finally have some time to myself to work on the Z. Started to tear down the rear suspension to sandblast, powder coat and rebuild, but I did not realize I need a spindle puller to remove the spindles. The service manual just says to remove them like they just pull out easily. Yea Right!! After 38 years they seem rusted pretty solid. Doesn't make sense to buy a puller for $150.00 to use only once. Does anybody have a set they can rent me to get mine removed? It seems like it would be cheaper to just drive them out and replace with new for the price of the tool and to only use it one time. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Jeff
-
The Microfiche shows up to 7/77 is 14710-N4705 and from 8/77 and up is 14710-N7600 . You should buy the Microfiche from the site the information and blow ups of the parts is worth it alone. Its available here https://www.classiczcars.com/store/index.php?cPath=2&osCsid=oq7cph8tqhdvajhmsi3ao08gn0 Hope this helps. Jeff
-
I ended up buying 2 lefts by accident when I did the metal work on my 240, Part# 16753L. If you cant get ahold of them and need one now just PM me. I wont be needing it anytime in the foreseeable future. I also have an extra left side wheel arch that I didn't use if you need it, Part # 16751L
-
Now a question comes up that I didn't know I had. There are large lip and small lip valance panels, which is correct for a 1972 or are they completely interchangeable? Thank You for any help. Jeff
-
Hello All, I am getting to the point where the body panels and doors will be put back on the car for final fitting before I spray color. I still need the front valance panel for a 240. Out of all the parts I had to find this wasn't expected to be the hardest! If anybody has one that they can sell me please let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks, Jeff
-
I am still looking for a good front valance for a 1972.
-
jcote75, That is how you verify the axle ratio. Turn the tires one revolution and count how many times the driveshaft turns. You compare that number to the available ratios for that axle to find the exact one. Going ten times is far more accurate though. Not sure on the limited slip diff part.
-
Hello All, I picked up my hood from the dealer on Feb. 14th. the List price is 507.49, I paid 359.29 which is the wholesale price. I am not sure about the fit of the aftermarket parts but the dealer part fit perfectly. You might want to try talking to another dealer or haggling a little on price. Don't forget you don't have to pay for shipping with the dealer and if the panel comes in dented you can refuse it and have them get another one. The aftermarket ads often have a disclaimer stating the panels might be dented in shipping and to expect to have to repair them when they get to you. All I had to do with the dealer parts was scuff them up and spray primer.
-
Hello All, I am finally getting ready to start painting. The only thing I can think of that I need is a front Valance panel. Motorsports has a 73 listed but my car is a 72. Does anybody know if the 73 is the same as a 72? I didn't think there was any difference up to 74 but just wanted to check before purchasing. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1A02/30-7046 Thanks for all the help. Jeff
-
When I picked up the manifold I have now the car was sitting in the junkyard for the past 25 years. The fittings were pretty frozen. I heated the manifold around them up cherry red and then gabbed them with a vice-grip to cool them fast and turn to break them loose. The cooling tends to get the fittings to shrink faster than the manifold can cool which seems to help.
-
Thanks Will, I just checked back and you already posted them. The hood was 65100-N4200.
-
I'm at work as soon as I get home I will post the part numbers for you.
-
Thanks everybody. MEZZZ, I would definitely recommend them. It will save me a substantial amount of time. The original fenders are mostly gone at the bottom and the tops are in sad shape also. I picked up the hood just to save time, the original is a little dented at the front but was repairable. I think I will fix it up after the car is done for a spare. Walter, I am actually going to undercoat the fenders before installing to help stiffen them up a little. They don't seem too much thinner but the originals are pretty well abused at the tops. They will oil can with just a push of your finger. a7dz, They look perfect, I hope my car looks as good as yours when its done.
-
I went down to the local dealer parts counter on Friday with the part numbers for the front fenders and hood. After seeing a post that somebody replied to saying they were still available I figured I would give it a try. They arrived in 2 days in great shape. Its like Christmas all over! They are all EDP coated without a scratch on them. The fenders only cost $284.00 each and the hood 360.00. It turned out they were cheaper than aftermarket after adding shipping. They will probably save me a months work on the originals. Pics are below.
-
This company has been advertising quite a bit in all the musclecar magazines lately. I have used it on its normal applications but not on exhaust manifolds yet. I never thought to try it on manifolds but even after being on the truck for a year it still looks like original cast iron. Might be worth a look. http://www.slipplate.com/pdfs/SP-MuscleCar.pdf
-
Red paint on Type A 4 speed - Inspection mark?
JeffMopar replied to Arne's topic in Open Discussions
Most of the time paint splotches on parts were to indicate that it was either full of fluid or if the paint was on a drain plug or other type of bolt that they were torqued to spec and ready to be shipped to the assembly plant. -
Make sure you run the tap they give you down the hole a few times. Clean all the shavings out of the tap and hole before each try, compressed air works great but watch out for your eyes. The tap should go in smoothly when you are done. If there are any burrs in the threads of the hole the coil will hang and cause it to tighten up when installing. Make sure you are using the installation mandrel that comes with the kit and the tang goes down not up, this makes the coil shrink when tightening to make it easier to install. Hope this helps.
-
Not sure if this will help, but when I originally picked up my Z it would fire out of the exhaust when accelerating and out the intake when decelerating. It actually lit the air cleaner element on fire before I fixed it! I used a Uni-Syn to synchronize the carbs and the problem disappeared. It was running almost entirely on the rear carb. Also check the oil level in the carbs. If the level is too high or low it will cause the vacuum pistons to not move equally. Jeff
-
Finally finished the rotisserie!! -
Finally finished the rotisserie!! -
Thank you for the reply. When I removed the floors to replace them there wasn't much left around the back corners. I had to fabricate most of the seat belt and floor bracing. Love your avatar and the color!! Jeff
