RedBird64

Thanks for your input guys. I'm going to re-check, and swap tires side to side.

Thanks! Although none appeared loose, I'll wrench'em to be sure.

Hi, This about a '73 240Z....I'm getting a vibration that feels like it's coming from the right rear. It occurs at higher speeds (hwy) and, it's somewhat, violent in nature. This seems to have occurred "over night", as the previous outing was vibration free. I've jacked the rear and probed and prodded different suspension components including the universals. Not finding any apparent "loose" joints etc., now, I'm thinking the tire may have "thrown" a balance weight, or RR shock gave up? Any other thoughts? Also, are the outer hub (rear) bearings service-able, that is, can be lubed? Thanks for any ideas.

Hi, Anyone, replace the OEM tach with a white faced after market unit? If so, who's did you use? Thanks

ever sell that kit? I know it's been a loooong time. But some folks like to hang on to stuff, me included?

Nice color choice!

Hey guys, The PO(s) cut a lot of the factory wiring in the V8 conversion of my 73 . I'm trying to locate where the tach wiring might have exited the firewall to the engine bay. I'm looking for a BLK/WHT". I think this one would have gone to the positive side of the coil. Thanks for any thoughts. Happy Motoring today!

Thanks Carl B. I'm learning very quickly from you guys. I've heard about the headlight deal, as well. I thinking, this Z cars wiring is far worst than Lucas! !

Hy, I too, was a TR3 and later, a TR4 owner that were both raced (EP and DP classes) in the late 60s and early 70s. Yes, that "Prince of Darkness" did visit our camp any number of times. BTW, your Pastoral rendition of how electrical corrosion can lead to a smoking mess was superb! Many happy trails!

Hi Thanks for that link. That's scary stuff going on. Happy Motoring!

Hi, I've run into this in other vehicles and usually goes back to venting, or the lack of. Are these caps vented, in themselves?

Hi, I realize this is an aged thread, but it's ironic I'm repairing a damaged fuse box in the same location. What is MSA?

Hey guys, This mention of replacing the coil, brings to mind the question of, whether or not, the Zs a have an inline resistor wire in the ignition or an external like the old Chrysler products used to use. The one I'm working on is a 73. Thanks!

Hi Wade, Thanks for your enlightening comments. I'm not sure where you were going with your reply: "your Jaguar was mis-wired at the factory. You do NOT install a 50A fuse to protect five 10 amp circuits all wired in parallel." I'll have to say, "I agree"! What Lucas engineer would do that? Thanks for the chuckle at your enthusiastic reply. BTW, I've never had the failure you so saliently used as an example, nor did I imply in making my reply. My comment, " I have a 67 Etype with 50A fuses and have had one issue in 38 years". I do see I was incorrect, in that, I should have stated "50A fuse", as in singular. Sorry to have miss-led you Wade. My Jag is a factory correct '67 Etype 2+2 with me becoming the 2nd owner in '70. It has "one" 50A fuse, seven 35A fuses, and the remaining three are 15s and one 5A. My one failure was early on, wherein, corrosion began in the horn ckt.,a fused...."50A" Now, you can take off with that! However more importantly and for the larger audience here, I think you either missed my point, or perhaps, I was not clear enough. My point: My Jag (and my early 65 mustang cvt for this matter) has with the same type and style of fuses as these Z cars, there is a corrosion that takes place, wherein, the fuse ends rest in the fuse holder. Due to any number of environmental reasons, corrosion will gradually build creating more resistance as you stated. This corrosion, can start but is not limited to the fuse holder. As the corrosion increases so does resistance. As resistance is increased, so, does heat and the cycle manifest until such point, enough heat is generated and melts the fuse box. So, for the general audience, the moral of this diatribe, do the maintenance periodically by cleaning those fuse terminals and the fuse ends themselves. Happy Motoring today! I guess I have to finish with "I'm a current '67 Etype owner"

Hi Thanks for the comments and agree wih repsect to the build up of corrosion. I guess I was looking for something more "magical", as I own two other classisc (well over 30 years each) with these early style fuse boxes and always did the maintenance in keeping those contacts clean. I was looking for more of a flaw, so, no big deal in that respect. I do see an issue with regards to how the headlight column stalk is wired and how the circuitry allows for high AMPS to ground in completing the ckt. That can use some improvement. Happy Motoring today!