thriller

Scroll a fair way through the photos for a fairly honest looking 240k coupe. Think that's the best I've seen since that @#%^ tried to flip a 6k one-owner coupe for like 12k. Be interested to see what it goes for. Judging by location I'd say it needs to go up on the spit. But it looks complete & not a fresh bog job. Clearing Sale

Pretty sure that's restored to how it was in first racing guise... Lots of the very-early cars became race cars. Fun note; went to K-Mart (Australian walmart kinda) and had a look at the hot wheels, lo and behold a white 240z in the same color/livery/numbers as 00008. But it was RHD

Make sure you do it right; the factory seam sealer does little to stop rust and you'll find there'll be a good few cm extra rust you hadn't noticed, underneath the sealer. My 260z had the same issue. Didn't look bad at all from the outside, but once I'd removed the pocket I could see I needed to replace a lot more metal than initially thought. Drill the spot welds out (3x each side I think?), remove the pocket, cut the cancer, replace, weld, seal. Good as gravy.

lonetreesteve; are you able to get to that mustard one? There's a few parts that look good for a pilfering for my car. Ahstray, steering wheel, hard to find early car parts... All these cars are in better nick than the 'average' $5,000 project here in Aus. Bleh!

Dude who owns the C210 is (I quote) "sh**est c*** ever" He's been owing someone money for the front wheels for at least a year.

Argh you guys must have such high availability of cars to scrap this! That'd be saved for absolute certainty in Aus Full 1/4 panels down to the dogleg, 1/4 window glass, maybe rear apron... Door skins... What would you want for them? Pain to find that stuff here... Full of bog or pretty decent?

I'd swap him my 240z.. Maybe. And I think mine is actually less rusty than that heap of ****, save the floor pans and a dogleg that needs complete rebuilding inside out. I paid $2500 + postage costs. Also dunno what you guys are on about for dishonesty; he says it all himself! "body is about 85 % from being great." I.e. only 15% of it is good heh

Grab your 4" angle grinder and head to the local hardware store to buy some 'strip-it' discs. They look like a grinding wheel but have a weird plasticky kind of 'grit'. Grab maybe 4 of the discs. I did half of my roof, most of my quarter panel, a door jam and full sill panel in a few hours. Grab a good respirator if you don't already have one too because bodyfiller is some nasy pasty stuff. Also anyone have any tips on how to remove small dents when you can only reach one side of the panel, i.e. around the wheel arch??

What's wrong with going back to bare metal? I'm in a similar boat with my 260z right now. I'm taking it back to bare metal, then etch priming, then priming once the etch has cured for a few hours.

I know of a few other things which were mega rare and thus would be completely out of reach, but still cool to know about and possibly making a replica wouldn't be too far out of the question depending how things go. The main one I've noticed is the factory competition tachometer, with the push knob in the middle that 'sets' a rev limiter (thanks to Alan for the pic) It doesn't look impossible to replicate. Take the face off, rotate the guts (modifying to leaving the indicators where they are), have someone re-print the face (the 'range', or the movement of the needle per 1,000 revs looks the same as normal tacho), then maybe take a cactus clock knob, make a 'limit' needle and stick it all back together... Definitely does not seem to be an optional part from the era though. Some other cool bits look like the Works brake pedals which look to be rubber-less with a cross hatch cut into them. Heh. love these little details.

I know what you mean; I have an S13 Silvia as well, with a Nardi 330mm wheel and a damn good bucket seat. Life is good there (well except for any stray pebbles or manhole covers I may drive across and almost break my spine). But for this Z I really want to try and go for a build that says, an enthusiast back in '77 could have gone to a dealership, picked up the car, headed next door to get a few optional parts goodies, and leave it exactly like that (with the exception of wheels he would have bought from an SSR/Hayashi outlet ).

Hi all. I'm rebuilding a '77 260z, and I'm trying to use 100% factory option parts, or at least the slight deviaiton I will allow is period correct stuff available in Japan, only where it's too hard to find sports option parts. I.e. wheels, 40mm solex carbs (though I have a feeling these were a U.S.A. option part?). Anyway theres a few bits in the interior missing, so for those parts I'd like to replace them with optional goodies. Might even replace normal clock with a calendar clock but we'll see how budget goes. First up I'm missing a gear knob. A wooden 5spd knob costs like $200 anyway. Does anyone (looking at you Alan) have some paperwork available showing the rally gear knob? It basically looks like an elongated wooden knob. A rough idea of pricing would be great and maybe some search terms for Yahoo Japan auctions. The only other thing is maybe a steering wheel. Might try and look for the "Compe Handle" but again will see how I feel after a quote for panel beating and respray. What were some other trick goodies available for the interior? I know about the bucket seats, but already have seats and that'd clash with the brown interior pretty bad.

(I recall) I've been told that those fender mirrors were standard for the early Aus delivered cars. Clean looking car!