cbaker

I like it. Very very clean. For those of you who know Jeff, here's his last Z that I purchased from him last fall. Right now it sits at a Datsun performance shop. Head work done, 260/270 Schneider cam, head ported and waiting on Z22S pistons for a 2.960 liter stroker build. She'll be a brand new Z https://www.flickr.com/photos/106921229@N08/

The ignition runs through the tach on a 240z and you can installed a cheap solenoid that will take the power directly from the battery. I did this and works great Addition of a Relay to a 240Z Starter System

Lots of work into this Z. Low mileage 1977 L28, R200 and matching 5 spd from an '82 280z. The body, suspension, fuel system, brakes, half shafts, seats, all fully restored. I have an offer but not enough to sell. I'd like a 1970 year if I sell.

Same thing on 2 of my 240's. It sounds like vapour lock...fuel boiling in the rails that run along side of the valve cover. Remove them and insulate them. Also remove the manifold heating where the glycol runs through. I thought mine was ignition since it feels like it but it's not. Common on the 240's since it gets hot under the hood.

Here's what I did and I have the XR700. Stock wiring for the ignition at the ballast resistor and coil is this. Black/white with a heavy plastic sheathing is 12V with key in full on position (not the start position where you have to hold the key). The green/white wire on the resistor outlet continues to join up with another gw wire that goes through the tach. This "other" gw wire you can't see. It comes out of the ignition switch and provides 12v to the coil, through the tach when the car is cranking. Out of the tach is the other black/white wire that normally goes to the coil (+) but may have the red from the XR700 there now. BW wire may be at the resistor like mine was. The only reason for the ballast resister is to drop voltage for a point system so this can be removed. Connect the black/white with no heavy sheathing to the coil (+). Connect the red from XR700 together with the green/white and the b/w with heavy plastic sheathing and you'll get your tach back. Check voltage to your coil when key is in the full on position. You don't need any adapter...at least I haven't. I was having misfiring issues and noticed that I had 2 resistors. One had the b/w with heavy plastic sheathing at one end with the gw at the other. The other resistor had the other bw wire at one end with a jumper wire to the coil (+) at the other. Anything less than 7 volts and you'll lose ignition at the 3000 rpm range.

I recently purchased a 1972 240z. It was resprayed 10 years ago and paint is real nice still. I have a few minor spots to touch up and spent 3 hours at a paint shop trying to find the code . I tried #115 which has the white interior for this exterior paint (mine has this, original) and it's not it. I spotted a few Datsuns online with the same blue but I don't know the code. email at cnpbaker@sympatico.ca