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So without the thermotime switch can I make the cold start injector active while it is turned to start or just crank it until it starts without the injector's help? I guess my concern is it will flood out if the injector is active when the engine is warm. I will try to find a used one locally but even my OCD is not worth 75 bucks.

I am trying to get it close to a daily driver. I don't think a FI car should be cranked more than a few seconds before it starts. After this is the cold idle. Just my OCD I guess.

I have a zx engine. P79 head on a F54 block. the sensor with the plug was on the Passenger side on the rear portion of the head so I guess it will be the CHTS. the other was in the thermostat housing with no wires running to it. (obviously since the wires are mostly gone). The only other sensor in the thermostat housing is the engine temp sensor and then there is a plug in another hole.

Does anyone recognize either one of these as a thermotime sensor? I am trying to trouble shoot my cold start circuit and I am not sure if I have thermotime sensor. Thanks Glen

I wish the junk yards around here had some older Zs but I have seen ZXs before. I will have access to the metal again this weekend so I was going to get a measurement. as far as resale my 73 is no longer stock since a L28 and 5 spd swap. the floors are pretty much gone also so I want to get it sound again as much as I can. I am going to get the fender off soon so I will see how bad it really is in there then but it feels bad. I do have an old truck bed that I could cut up but it may be too tough for me to shape. Thanks for the sensible replies and not laughing at the idea.

Hello everyone. I am about to dig into my hole under the battery tray and I have a question. Now this might seem stupid but I want to know my options. I am trying to find a source of inexpensive sheet metal and came up with an idea. It is not a new idea but is it an ok idea? Would the sheet metal in a freezer or refrigerator be thick enough to use in the repair. Maybe there is another appliance that would provide a suitable gauge. I see appliances all the time set out for the trash and I have three freezers right now that I could strip down instead of taking them to the scrapper. Thanks. Glen

Point taken. I will refill (minus the flush) and check it again in 2 to 3 hundred miles to see how it looks. To go to synthetic fluid wouldn't I have to get all the old dino oil out first somehow or is just draining it out ok? Thanks for info guys.

I don't believe it is the original oil. I was going to put a magnet into the oil to see if there was any in suspension in the oil. I would be amazed if the magnet catches all the metal in the oil. That is why I was thing of pouring some gas into the trans to flush out any metal on the bottom through the drain hole. I wouldn't drive with the gas in there just use it as a medium to carry any other metal out. I have seen some metal in other transmission oil but I don't remember it being this much. Here is a pic of the metal. Thanks for the reply.

Hey all. I went to change the trans oil last night (5 speed from an zx) and it had quite a bit of metal on the magnetic plug. How much you ask? well if I spread it out it might be the size of a quarter round and thick. It is all fine metal but still I am wondering if this is a problem. I have no idea when the last time the trans oil was changed. I want to flush with say a quart of gas then after a nights wait refill it. Might do it again after a couple hundred of miles just to see the new amount. Any thoughts?

Here a pic.

I am now the proud owner of a pre 73 front bumper but I need the mounting brackets. I have seen them and of course I think I could make some if I had the layout. Does any one have a drawing with dimensions that I could use. May be if I had a template on paper that I could use to get the bends right I could mark and drill the holes. The width of the bar i use will be dictated by the bumpers attachment point. Glen

Blue I did check the leads for resistance and it was 0.00. I just was trying to figure out which way to go with this thing. Thanks for your time in making a reply. Glen

I may get in trouble for this but I posted a question over on zcar mods>engine mods and have not got any help so I am putting a link here to see if anyone will chime in on my issue. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum179.html

Hey that would be cool. What was the diameter you used?

BUMP Is this information still available? None of the links I followed worked?

I hope this is in the correct forum for this but it seems I have a coil dilemma. A PO for my 4/73 240 put in an L28 with electronic ignition but left the coil's ballast resistor in place and hooked up. Now I am trying to determine if I have the 240 coil and should leave the resistor hooked up or do I have a 280 coil and can remove the resistor. The car seems to run fine but as always I want to get the most bang for my buck. I have measured the resistance of the primary and secondary windings and find that, except for the a low reading on the primary for a 240 and a little high for a 280 (mine is 1.1ohms on the primary while the 240 FSM says 1.5-1.7 ohms and the 280 FSM says 0.84-1.02ohms), my secondary resistance fits into either the 240 or 280 ranges. Now this begs the question why can't a 240 coil handle the full voltage like a newer 280 coil? I mean that if the Resistance is within specs for both types then is there some type of difference in the material/construction that makes the 240 coil heat up more and fry? I have checked the input voltage with and without the resistor and found that without it the coil is only getting about one more volt (13.3 instead of 12.25). I find that funny too because across the battery I have a little over 14 volts while at idle. My tuning ear tells me that there is not a noticeable difference in the engine at idle with or without the resistor, but i haven't driven it with the resistor bypassed yet. Any thoughts on how to ID the coils? there is no sticker or numbers on the coil and as far as i can tell it looks just like any other oil filled coil I have seen. Glen

I was going to rebuild it but the PO had broken the bleeder off and I broke the "easy out" trying to get it out. Then I tried to drill that out and it is now a good paper weight!

Just in case anyone was curious on brake parts I used a rear cylinder from O'Reilly's to replace my pass. side rear wheel cylinder 2 weeks ago. So far it is working fine and it seems to be a quality piece. It was $45.00 plus tax. BrakeBest® - Wheel Cylinder Part # WC96878. It came with the bleeder valve and the rubber boot. The only thing this the auto adjust lever needed to be tweaked to fully engage the wheel. PS do this BEFORE you install it! :stupid:

Another big consideration is the laws about bumpers on cars. I am not sure of my states (TN) laws (going to research these sometime) but I have to assume that if it came equipped with bumpers from the factory then you would have to have them now. If not I might consider just filling in and not putting any back on.

grantf Saving $$ is always a good thing but apparently everyone loves the smaller bumpers so they are getting harder to find and if you find them shipping adds more $$. So I wanted to explorer other alternatives. I would guess the PPO (Previous Previous Owner) sold the bumpers off this one since he was supposed to be racing it. I may find some used ones since I am not above having them painted instead of chromed. They are doing good things with powder coatings too.

You know I never really thought of adapting another car's bumpers. People are all ways wanting to get rid of the 280 bumpers. I wonder if you could cut them down and fab brackets to get them to fit and look good?

Stanley Thanks for the pic. I'm thinking a bigger tube bent to follow the original bumper's lines and somehow narrowed on the ends might do ok. Any other thoughts?

Stanley You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of what you did would you? I have never seen a 73 bumper first hand so I am having problems follow what you did.

SteveJ You have hit on one reason I was looking at Do It Yourself bumpers. Plus I think if you Do It Yourself (Even if they are butt ugly) you luv'em.

I have searched and been unable find out if anyone has made a set of bumpers. I know it sounds stupid but I was just curious if it could be done. I have a 4/73 240 and it does not have either bumper. I have seen the fiberglass ones and I would like to have a little protection so instead of trying to find a good original set I was thinking if making some customs might work. Any thoughts? And remember what my mother says "if you can't say anything nice... eat a sandwich" Glen