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View Advert 1974 to 1978 Datsun 260z 280z distributor breaker plate repair kit Greeting all. After several inquiries about using my current breaker plate rebuild kit for 1979 to 1983 cars on pre-1979 cars, I reassembled my design team and have come up with a better design for the plastic bearing retainer that is found in the Datsun 260z and 280z distributors from 1974 to 1978. The earliest distributor I have is a 1974 and it is an electronic pickup distributor. I do not own a pre-1979 Datsun car or truck but I have picked up extra distributors as I find them in my local scrap yard. I DO NOT know when Datsun changed from points to electronic pickup in their distributors but since I have a 1974 Datsun 260z distributor, I assume that all 1974 260z cars are electronic pickup, but I may be wrong. So, what I do know is that my bearing retainer will fit ELECTRONIC pickup Datsun 260z and 280z distributors from 1974 to 1978. As I find out more, I will update the post. With the new updated design of the bearing retainer, a small modification will have to be made on one or two of the breaker plate screws. Once you have taken the breaker plate apart to verify that you need a new bearing retainer take a look at the bottom of the top half of the plate. Any screw that extends below the surface will have to be ground down. You can see in my pictures the one screw that I did grind down. If you don’t want to do any grinding you can always source out a new shorter screw or two, your choice. I do have a 1978 dual electronic pickup distributor that has 2 screws that extend below the bottom of the top plate. Other than that, just pay attention to how the plate is assembled when you take it apart. One thing that I have learned is that the snap ring that holds the two halves together can be a real pain in the fingers to get back in the correct place. After trying to get one back together for an hour, a question came into my head. Why am I making this so hard? Why am I fighting to put this back together with the ball bearing in the lower (spring metal) retainer? Why not reassemble the plate with the ball bearings out and install the balls after the spring clip is back in place! So that is what I did and it works great. No more fighting that snap ring for me. The lower bearing retainer is spring metal and will flex enough to get the bearing into the correct place. SOOOOOOO much easier. If you need a new retainer and bearings you can just email or text me. chaug@bis.midco.net or seven zero one-471-fifteen thirtyfour. The price will be 30.00 for a new retainer and 6 new correct size bearings. Price includes shipping to the lower 48 USA. Part is located in North Dakota and my name is Craig. If you are not in the US, I can get a shipping quote for you if you send me your full shipping address. I have sent several overseas and the longest it has taken is 6 weeks. This is mainly due to US customs, so plan ahead before the Zcar driving season. Craig Haug chaug@bis.midco.net seven-zero-one 471-fifteen, thirtyfour Parts are located in North Dakota The screw that had to be modified or replace. There may be more than one After grinding off the protruding screw. Nothing can extend below the plate otherwise there will be interference with the new retainer. Advertiser kickstand80 Date 04/30/2022 Price $30 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Datsun 280zx, A series, L series, 510, 1200 Matchbox distributor breaker plate repair kit. 79-83 280zx distributor breaker plate repair kit. 22136-H9501 22158-S6700 Greeting everyone. I rebuilt my distributor from my 1981 280zx. When I took it I took it apart guess what I found, yep the plastic bearing holder had broken and the bearing were in the bottom of the distributor. I sourced a good distributor and removed the plastic bearing holder and sent it to an engineering firm that specializes is plastic molding/printing and had them redesign/reinforce the weak spots in the bearing holder and I have had a small batch of them produced. I have sourced proper size replacement bearings. The breaker plate comes apart pretty easy, but pay attention and take pictures. I still have 30-40 of these left from first production run. I will make more when I run low so Yes I still have them. I will look into international shipping and get a quote if you send me an address. FYI it has taken as long as 6 weeks for parts to get to Australia due to US Customs. So keep that in mind when ordering from overseas. This will fit the A series, L series Matchbox distributors. 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. Will not fit Pre-1979. See my other ad for 1974 to 1978 bearing retainers. $30.00 for the bearing retainer and 6 new bearings. The price includes shipping to the lower 48. Here is a video of a youtuber using my breaker plate to repair his distributor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0bseYm0tHI&t=76s My contact information Craig Haug chaug@bis.midco.net seven-zero-one 471-fifteen, thirtyfour Parts are located in North Dakota Advertiser kickstand80 Date 04/30/2022 Price $30 Category Parts for Sale

As your engine heats up the coolant expands and some of it is released into the reservoir so if you have too much in the reservoir, it will overfill. When the engine cools off, it creates a vacuum and draws coolant back into the engine. So when the engine is HOT you should be between the two marks, usually near the MAX. After the engine cools and draws coolant back into the radiator you should be above the MIN mark. Add coolant when the engine is cold to just above the MIN mark

Leave room for expansion. Your coolant system breaths as it heats up and cools down. When cold the level should be at or just above the MIN mark. When hot it should be between the MIN and MAX marks but not above the MAX. If you overfill it you will end up with coolant on the ground with you wondering where your leak is.

I have an 81 that had a bad head gasket (overheating). When I took the engine apart I found a considerable amount of corrosion in the head where the thermostat housing attached. I also found that there was corrosion in the timing cover water pump volute (blue circle) when I removed the water pump. When I sandblasted the timing cover, the metal was so thin that I blew a hole thru the cover behind the water pump. In time, it would have started to leak antifreeze into the oil on its own. I used some super industrial 2 part epoxy (Belzona 1111) to repair all of the corrosion in the water pump volute and cylinder head. Did you pull the water pump when you had the timing cover off? You can also leak antifreeze into the oil at the water pump inlet/outlet of the cover where it mates with the block (yellow circle). The green line is the "tattle tail" grove. If your gasket fails, you should see antifreeze dripping on the ground, but over time this grove can get plugged with gunk and could leak into the oil. As mentioned above, there are a couple of timing cover/water pump bolts that extend into the coolant jacket of the engine that could also get antifreeze into the engine oil.

The redesigned bearing retainer is made from hi temp ABS plastic and is 3D printed by a specialty company located in Bismarck North Dakota. I have removed all the holes except where the bearings go and I doubled the plastic thickness of the material around the bearings themselves. The retainer maintains the origional thickness and the bearing are new and the correct size. I am working on th pre 79 breaker plate bearing retainer upgrade, it is a little more complicated than the 79-83. Here is a closeup of my bearing retainer.

View Advert Datsun 280zx, A series, L series, 510, 1200 Matchbox distributor breaker plate repair kit. 79-83 280zx distributor breaker plate repair kit. 22136-H9501 22158-S6700 Greeting everyone. I rebuilt my distributor from my 1981 280zx. When I took it I took it apart guess what I found, yep the plastic bearing holder had broken and the bearing were in the bottom of the distributor. I sourced a good distributor and removed the plastic bearing holder and sent it to an engineering firm that specializes is plastic molding/printing and had them redesign/reinforce the weak spots in the bearing holder and I have had a small batch of them produced. I have sourced proper size replacement bearings. The breaker plate comes apart pretty easy, but pay attention and take pictures. I still have 30-40 of these left from first production run. I will make more when I run low so Yes I still have them. I will look into international shipping and get a quote if you send me an address. FYI it has taken as long as 6 weeks for parts to get to Australia due to US Customs. So keep that in mind when ordering from overseas. This will fit the A series, L series Matchbox distributors. 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. Will not fit Pre-79 but I will have 73-78 retainers VERY soon. $25.00 for the bearing retainer and 3 new bearings. The price includes shipping to the lower 48. Here is a video of a youtuber using my breaker plate to repair his distributor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0bseYm0tHI&t=76s My contact information Craig Haug chaug@bis.midco.net seven-zero-one 471-fifteen, thirtyfour Parts are located in North Dakota Advertiser kickstand80 Date 04/09/2022 Price $25 Category Parts for Sale

Not my vintage of Z car. Looks like someone used the roof as a trampoline and front and rear glass is gone. Car is about 200 mile from me. Its been on the site for aver a month. I dont know anyone local that has a 240. Never know, it might be put a battery in and drive it home! Would make a good Road Kill episode driving a car from Montana to LA in December/January

Greeting all. Local Ad site posting for a 1972 Datsun 240z for sale. Build date is 12/72. The car is located in Glendive Montana. This is not my car. Here is the link to the Ad. https://www.bismanonline.com/glendive_mt/stock_c1_1973_datsun_240z

We were in La Spezia, Piza, Florance, Paris, Salsburg, Munich, Dublin and Belfast September of 2019. 3 week self guided tour. Had a blast! Only doing Rome, Baiae and Herculaneum in Spring of '22.

Yep, you managed to sum up 7 weeks of diagnosis and putzing around with my car in 3 sentences. I guess I get a little long winded! Just noticed your "map location" had to look that one up! Have not been to the Netherlands yet. WIll be in Italy this spring.

And my wifes car she calls sprinkletits

Here is a picture of my $3000 naughty girl who has become a real gem!

I that an open ended "T".

When I was trying to get my 1983 to run ( i purchased as a non-running car) I did a compression test and all cylinder were between 182 and 190! I do not know if there was any engine mods done prior to my owning it but due to the damage that was on the end of the crankshaft balancer woodruf keyway, someone had the engine apart at one time. It runs pretty darn good on 93 octane.

Any updates on your project? Did you get your distributor repaired?

Thanks for the reply. Let me give you a little more information. I have a 1983 280zx that I purchased as a "reliability problem" about 7 weeks ago. I have a 1981 280zx that I have had for several years.......and in the post I talk about the car that was under water in a local junk yard, 3 different cars. My 1983 car was never in a "flood". By "flooded so bad it won't start" I meant that the engine was flooded with fuel to the point it would not run. I have the car running great now. While I was trying to figure out my issue I read a lot of posts on 3 different Z car forums. I gained so much information and am grateful to all that post on these sites. One thing that I did notice thou is that a high percentage of people who post their issues on the sites don't come back and post the final resolution to their problems. It's like reading a book and the last 2 chapters are missing. With my post I figured that I would let everyone know what my issue was, how I went around trying to diagnose and fix the problem and the final chapter on what I did to finally get the car to run. My post is a "start to finish" problem solved post. I can see where you might think it was in water flooded, I did get a chuckle out of that... and I actually did pull the entire engine fuel injection harness out of the car and unwrap it and check every inch for bad wires! It's not as hard as you might think.

Greeting all. I recently purchased a 1983 280zx N/A manual Federal car that was listed as having a “reliability Issue”. The previous owner of the car had moved out of state and after spending an enormous amount of money and the car spending 13 months in 2 different shops he decided to wash his hands of the car. The PO was only able to drive the car 145 miles in a year and a half that he owned it! Being a pretty good backyard mechanic and having owned 4 other Z cars I figured that I could have the car up and running in less than a day. I was told that the car was running extremely rich to the point it would foul the plugs in a matter of minutes. I purchased the car, which is very nice, and it would not start when I went to the local repair shop to pick it up. I spent the next 2 weeks checking and re-checking everything on the car. I went thru the FSM diagnostic procedures 3 times. The timing and distributor position were way off so I pulled the front cover and installed a new chain and put the distributor drive shaft in the correct position. When I finished, the car did the EXACT same thing. I tried 2 AFM, 2 different ECUs, I tried 3 distributors, I tried 4 CHTS, I tried 3 ignition modules and different combinations of all of these and nothing changed. I also own a 1981 280zx N/A manual California emission car. I removed all the sensors, with the exception of the ECU, from the 1983 and put them in the 1981 and the 1981 sensors into the 1983. The 1981 started and ran, it even ran when I put the 1983 distributor into the 1981. This distributor has the 2 plug Ignition module, but it ran, not well, but it worked . Still no start, super flooding of the engine on the 1983 car. So, I was getting fuel and spark and air. That’s all you really need to get a car to run. I even tried to start the car on starting fluid and it would not run. In that 2 weeks I was only able to get the car to run 1 time and it ran BAD. It would only run with the throttle wide open. The car smoked, the exhaust stunk of unburned fuel and the spark plugs turned black. The car would not idle at all, it would die if the rpm dropped below 3,000. When the car finally died and I could not restart it, the plugs were soaked with fuel. Check the grounds! I did. The repair shop that I picked the car up from is an old school shop. They had actually added extra body grounds from the battery to body and from the engine to body. The AFM and distributor were grounded. The 4 ground wires at the ECU had pigtails soldered to them and were body grounded at the ECU. Now I start thinking bad ECU. How do you prove that if you don’t have access to a good ECU. The 1982-1983 ECU’s were upgraded with Heavy Duty internals so that the Dropping Resistor was no longer needed on the 82 and 83 cars. Try finding a 1983 ECU! They don’t seem to exist. I spent the next week thinking and researching 1979-1983 280zx ECU. Who can fix them. Who can diagnose or test them, but I could find very little information on any of the S130 car ECU’s. I started thinking what is different amongst all of the 280zx ECU’s? I spent 12 hours digging thru all of the S130 FSM looking for the differences. How many of you know that the 35 pin connector on the 1979 thru the 1983 ECU’s change very little. The wires for the AFM, CHTS, TPS, Cold Start Valve, Thermotime Switch, Air Regulator even the wires from the fuel injectors on all of these cars stayed in the exact same place for all years. The 35 pin ECU connector does not change from 1979 to 1983 with the exception of adding a few things on these cars, even on the HD ECU 1982/83 cars. Here is the difference: *Sometime in 1979/80 O2 sensors were being added (pin 31 & 16) to California cars and made their way to all of them by 1983, but the O2 sensor is in the same pin position on the ECU connector on all years . *In 1980 there was a 2 wire plug (labeled “Not Used”) was added to the 35 pin ECU connector (pin 20 &10) but stays in the same place. *In 1983 an altitude switch was optional and added to the 35 pin connector (pin 28 & 35). That’s it! I researched all of the input sensors that feed info into the computer, and with the exception of the coolant temp sensor (1979) that changes into the CHTS after 1979, the specs are all the same on the CTHS, AFM, TPS, Air Temp Sensor, nothing changes from 1979 to 1983. Remember that I am trying to prove that my ECU is bad on my 1983 car. I have access to a 1981 that I know works and there is a local wreaking yard with a 79 and 80 280zx there. Since nothing changes on these cars ECU pin out, why not put my 1981 into the 1983. I got a Dropping Resistor and main wire harness from the junk yard and pulled out the positive wires and dropping resistor form the main harness. I added EV1 connectors (from an junk Audi) so I could hook up my makeshift resistor harness to the fuel injectors. I added spade connectors to the negative side wires on the EV1 injector connector so I could plug the negative wire into the original injector connecter so that I would be connected to the ECU for the grounding to trigger the injectors. I ran power from the battery to the dropping resistor. Now I had power thru the dropping resistor to the injectors. The makeshift harness was hooked to the ECU ground wore thru the original wire harness and I could now plug in my 1981 ECU and BAM!!!! The car starts and runs great! BAD 1983 ECU! So if you are having the super flood issue with your 1982/1983 car and you have eliminated EVERYTHING else by following the FSM exactly, its probably your ECU. Remember a bad/disconnected CHTS can and will give you a super flooded engine also. One interesting thing to note that while I was at the wreaking yard, the two 280zx that they have are close to the river and have been completely submerged several times during spring thaw flooding. I purchase one of the “been underwater” ECU, the one that had the O2 sensor input in the 35 pin connector, and took it home and opened it and cleaned out all of the dirt an muck with precision electronic spray cleaner. After running the 1983 with the 1981 ECU, I installed the 1980 “been underwater” ECU into he 1983 and the car ran great! Shakedown run tomorrow! Moral of the story, check everything 3 times, beg and borrow parts from your friends, think out of the box and do your research. 5 weeks, countless hours of labor, $270 on parts and only $3000 purchase price for the car and now it runs great. I may just install the Drop Resistor permanent and keep the 1980 ECU instead of trying to find a unicorn 1983 ECU. Don’t give up! The answer is out there!

I dont have a store, I just sell them thru the various Z car forums If anyone is interested you can just send me an email at: chaug@bis.midco.net OR text me at: seven,sero,1-4,7,one-one,5,THREE,4 Payment is: My paypal is chaug@bis.midco.net and is the only way I accept payment. 25.00 includes shipping for the Bearing Retainer and 3 new bearings I had a batch of 100 made and have sent them all over the country. Craig Haug Mandan, ND

There is a metal one on the bottom of the bearing plate and a plastic one sandwiched between the plates. I do have a few magnets. My Japan magnet source dried up thou. I am pursing a possible method of making them but everything takes time and $$$$$$$$$$$$. There is currently a broken magnet on ebay for 19.00 plus 12.45 shipping in Ft. Lauderdale. 30.00 for the magnet and 25.00 for the bearing retainer. Shipping included.

My bearing retainer is 3D printed out of hi temp ABS by a small specialty engineering and production facility, Gizmonics.biz . If anyone is interested you can just send me an email at: chaug@bis.midco.net OR text me at: seven,sero,1-4,7,one-one,5,THREE,4 My paypal is my above email address and is the only way I accept payment. 25.00 includes shipping I had a batch of 100 made and have sent them all over the country. Comes with the retainer and 3 new bearings. Craig Haug Mandan, ND

Greeting all. I joined this forum but have not spent much time on it. I have re-designed the plastic bearing retainer that is broken in your distributor. I sell them for 2.00. Here is a picture of my broken retainer, an origional and my re-designed retainer. I removed all the week spots and beefed up the holes where the ball bearing sit. This will fit any 4 or 6 cylinder matchbox distributor. HAS TO BE A MATCHBOX DISTRIBUTOR. I have these posted on another Z site or if you search 280zx distributor repair kit you will find my story. Good luck.