Bpaccaud

dammed... i will try tommorrow

hope it works this time:stupid:

exemple of works we done

This is a 1973 240Z that was flood in 2003 (with 4 meters of water under the top) The car was to a friend Eric (Tomzawyer on our Datsun Forum) www.datsun-france.com and i suggest him to built a race car for us, as the car was in poor condtition after flooding; i done the works with my student, we start the project in october 2006; know the car was sand, and bodyshell parts were rebuilt, we build a rotissery for help the work engine was take down, gear box too a 6 points roll cage was bought and in september we put it on car the engine will have (for starting), some little modifications, a good head, balancing, cams, but we keep the SU... we have the better Original European FSC71A gear box with 3,90 final drive For the wheel question... my technical friend tell me that we just must respect the maxi/ mini ; wheel + tire diameter for the period as specified in annexe K

Hello all! I build a Gr4 too (this is a student project car, i build this car with my student as i am mechanics teacher) and i ask me the same questions... i have the 3023 with the mark too... and after reading the differents periode of annexe J i notice that in the 1969 periode (the first Z run in this periode) there are no Gr2 or Gr4 en regarding Brian Long (Datsun z fairlady to 280z book), in page 77 the book explain that in 1970 the car ran in Gr3 and have twin choke solex carburator...and fiberglass bonnet, door and rear hatch, perspex windows like the GR3 permit In 1972 season, perspex and lighweigt panel were banned in GR3 because of new 1971 appendix J rules (and GR2 and GR4 appears....) read P98 that's why "i think" ;that 3023 documents were modified and to clear the situation in this document ,after 1971 "GROUP 4 only" mark appears on parts that are allowed originaly in GR3 Nowadays FIA technics or not very clear with the History; so things are not clear for us...it's very difficult to know all in all brand... I have a good friend who is technics for the FIA; and was now specilst in historic racing car; and he tell me that for exemple: for the breaks: we could'nt find the FIA homologuated calipers for the Z but as we respected the piston dimension to have the same area, and if calipers are pretty the same look (like AP racing 4 piston) "he tell me to machine cut the Ap racing mark"...; technics would'nt be too hard or visiuous to refused the car... And he tell me to respect the technics conception periode to be realistic with the rules

Hello Mull I discover your video recently, what amazing works!!!! I start a restauration project to built an Historic 240Z racing car, as i am mechanic teacher, i will do the project with my students and was help by a friend which is bodywork teacher i will show him those video, i think it will be very interested by them and me probably show them to our student!!! A question: I notice you speak about powdercoating, anyone could explain me what is it exactly because we didn't know that in France, and how it is spray, what is the advantage? Thank you Ben

yes i know guys, but perhaps several person in europe, like me take a look at this club site, so i do this to touch more people who perhaps didn't look at the English site. i am interesting by the article mr camouflage if you can scan it! and send me.... Benoit

always nobody? If you have a janspeed converted car please answer at this thread!

I have post a subject about Janspeed turbo conversion on the English Z club http://www.zclub.net/index.php?s= You can find in the Forum two subject - Research in early Janspeed history: if you have anything about Janspeed (articles, pictures, technical article.....more on the history please to post in this forum! And - Inventory of janspeed Turbo z car conversion Have you have an original janspeed conversion or other pleaser put your car identification in this forum and help me in this inventory! you can also send me the documents or contact me at : paccaudb@aol.com Thanks to help us Benoit

interesting!!!! What is the approximative price for this complete kit throttle, wire, and ecu unit? And how can you tune the ecu (with a special controler or computer)? what value can you adjust on the ecu programme? exemple: inject timing point and fuel injected (open time of the injector)?

Beguinning my restoration project, i am actually hesitant in that choice and i would to know by your experience what is the best choice regarding the datsun body particularity and my car rust area you can see it in my gallery (some of i already find...) My first idea was to do a frame up restoration because i don't want to do an oversight on area that would be better to treat. And don't want to see rust reappear under a beautiffull paint coat. Last week a friend (bodyworker) saw the car and recommand me to do a staged restoration because for him, frame up restoration is lot of work for a not so best result compared to the staged methode, and take more time and money. He is also against a total body stripping with a sand blast give me your opinion and experiency B.Paccaud

I bought a 2+2 260z for the "childs perspective reason", but the 260z engine was less intersting than the 240z one. My 260z 2+2 have the Janspeed turbo kit that give it 200 CV, that make the difference, and if there wasn't this kit sure i would prefer to buy a 240z and modifie with tripple weber. About the look i notice that the 260z 2+2 was better in real view than picture view and the hump on the roof is not so bad in real view. Another thing to think, is that body repear part are not the same (for the rear) and some don't exist or are difficult to find....

first, thanks all!!!! What did you thinks about the product "naming" Rustol (if it exist in USA or somewhere else) Is it compatible with welding (after having past the product?) And what is his compatibility with the original paint material for datsun? Phosphoric acid must be rinse with water and it can be a problem for the inside area (with a bad rinsing the acid can eat the body probably...) and (if water don't dried well it can be a problem too) So the rustol perhaps can be a best idea because it protect the body and convert the rusting parts rather than distroy the rust! Give me your idea.... Benoit