Bpaccaud

picture (the last...)

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What did you thinks about this parts of my car, what is the best way to repair? I thinking to unspot the weld of the reinf hood ledge to treat the the rust inside but can i find only the upper parts of the hood ledge (in England?) For the part under the head lamp case what is the best way?

Thanks for your help Alan, like you say, i think too, that is not big problem, but rather several small problems, as my carburetor seems to be well tune (according to the colortune sparkplugs tool), but i soon order a service kit for it; i think it's more the ignition that need tuning i suppose that my pressure drepressure timing is involved or the pressure depressure sensor that give the information. Perhaps that someone before had tune the car for the best running and find it on 27° timing advance because of the pressure/depressure advance faillure!!! so i prefer had more information before doing a mistake. thanks one more time Benoit

So someone have one of this kit on his Z?

Thanks Alan, Yesterday after trying several times to contact Janspeed by mail ( 1 answer was gives to me by a woman "Becky" about the timing advance and the spark plug type, but the other times when I ask more precision about the kit I have no answers) I decide to contact them by phone and ask Becky, I have someone but unfortunately my English speaking is not good enough to understand all what she say and probably my explanation wasn't very clear....) must I take more English lesson.... It's impressive like the English speak quickly at phone!!!! But she gives me an e-mail address for someone that could answer to me, so I send him (Matthew) my different problem and needs; I hope he could answer me.... My question in the forum was also to know if someone still has this kit on his car or if the reliability wasn't good enough to keep it on the car. Also I suppose that someone that have cover several thousand of kilometers with this kit can tell me the different problem he had meet and the solutions. About the turbo I think it is in enough good condition to boost to the 5 psi, I have already cover 200 kms with the car and my first problem was to adjust rightly the S.U (without specific tools), so some time the engine run pretty good and sometime badly, but know the tuning was done (with the help of color tune sparkplug tool), but after cleaning my carby I know he need servicing. When I have check the timing advance I 've find 27° BTDC at 750 rpm, and Becky's at Janspeed tell me to put 8 deg BTDC at 750 rpm, and know the car run badly and have backfire to the carburetor when I accelerate up to 3500 rpm (my carby was be tuning again, my valves clearance checking, the compression seems to be good enough to a 2.6L (8 to 8.5 bars for all cylinders), I have the right spark plugs and spark plugs gap, the timing point were check too and I have done an ignition test (right to all the cylinders) the only curious thing I find is the dwells % that is very high (96%) when the micro dynamics controller is on the ON position and only 55% on the EMERGENCY position?????!!!! Why??? I don't know.... Sometime the engine stall when I am on the ON position and when I put to emergency the Engine restarts (another problem...) The micro dynamics controller (turbo controller unit type EMS 3) (turbo dynamics phone "0883 49281") have an timing advance adjusting screw but I don't know if it's to adjust the pressure depression timing or rpm timing or static timing) I think it's probably the first but how to tune? Well like you can see several question, because I have nothing about this kit and find little by little. Know I wait for Janspeed answer... (conversion number 2989) Thanks Benoît

i would like to know if someone have or had a datsun Z with the Janspeed turbo kit conversion, and what did you think about? Actualy i trying to adjust my engine and need information about the microdynamics turbo electronic controle unit, and the timing advance. thanks Benoit

i used one on my 260z janspeed turbo 2,6L, and the carburetor is simple in his working, but in my opinion difficult to have a constant tuning...(i think because of the fuel viscosity auto adjusting systeme) you must preadjust the jet level by first have the jet in the same level than the carburetor body hole, then turn the mixture adjusting screw by 3 turn 2/3 to the right then normaly you are 2.97mm under the carburetor body level, start the engine and when it is hot adjust the mixture by turning the screw to have the higher idle (to the right to have a richer mixture) after adjust the idle by the idle screw.

here we are the tuning is done, not a big probleme finaly, the hardest is to unlock the nuts. I tune the valve when the engine is cold so no probleme and set 25/100 mm to the exhaust and 20/100 mm to the inlet. the engine run better now thanks all Benoît

if someone can send me the Hanes page concerning the valves adjustement procedure, because i don't know which nuts to turn to adjust the play....Never seen model like this system on european car!!!! furthermore nuts are lock up.... i don't want to make a mistake!

yes thank you, my 260z is from 1977 and is a 2+2 so it must had one, furthermore on the electric diagram in the 260 z book there is an electrical line to the pump at the rear, but actualy i didn't find it...

Thanks Lance, so when i 'll have the money i tryed to put an electric fuel pump, without return line....and i think that my "king" filter regulator would do his job to not "overfuel" the carby i let you know.... Benoît

thanks for this interesant link. If the different manufacures didn't speak the same language it will be difficult to compare, but so i understand why janspeed recommand this type of plugs Thanks Benoît

sorry my vocabulary is too small to explain exactly the noise and i could tell you more when i could test realy the car on the road ( actualy i have no car insurance) last week perhaps.... thanks Benoît

so i try to explain my second question..... As you could notice in the picture the carburator have 2 outlet which was closed (by black hose) when the carburator was dismantle from a Jaguar xj6 to fit out on the 260z with a single carby sucking by the rotomaster turbo. One of the outlet is a link to the second carburator (on the xj6) so i ask me, if i could used it for a return line to the tank. This outlet lead to the top of the float chamber.... i hope i am clear, it 's difficult to me to explain in English the picture was take when i found the car, she is in best condition now.....

thanks guys NGK BP6ES is the original type recommand by Nissan for a stock Engine and if mine was stock i will used this model.... But as mine engine as a turbo kit it will probably run at higher temperature, so i can used the same type. the number in the sparks model is the heat level the most higher is the number the most the spark was hot sparks. But i don't know the signification of BP and ES the Janspeed recommand are 7 so most higher temperature here was the probleme and i don't know the difference between BP ES and BPR ES So the champion N9YC are probably too hot Someone know all this signification?

on my 260z turbo engine (Janspeed with S.U 2"), i find champion n9yc spark plugs when i bought it, when i contact Janspeed someone tell me to used NgK BPR 7 ES, Someone knows spark plugs sufficiently to tell me if there is a big difference between this to types and which is the best for my engine?

thanks for the reply, i plan to had one (a facet pump, which was exactly the same than the original apparently... see picture) as my engine was modified with a turbo kit (janspeed kit with a single SU hif7 2") i suspect the mechanical fuel pump is not sufficient, but my problem is that the return line was closed when the car was prepare, and i don't know if i can use the the outlet originaly provide for link to the second carburator (on jaguar xj6) as on outlet to the return line. i already used a filter regulator seeing in the picture What did you think?

thanks for the reply, i'm not yet a member of the french Z car club but i think to subscribe in few months. if it was only the bearing i thinks that the sound would be louder with the speed, but in my problem the sound appear when i accelerate or slow down. And i notice some clearence when i turn the left wheel (from right to left slowly), and nothing on the right wheel. perhaps it s possible to be an u joint drive shaft?!!! but i don't think taht the sound comes to this part.

someone can answer to my question??? which Z have the electrical fuel pump on the rear near the thank and why? the mechanical pump is not sufficient? Sorry for my mediocre English......

the right side is baddest because the rust down under the rocker panel and is more deep... but i thinks this car will give me more surprises when i will begin the big works... we will see

i ve just test, nothing along the bottom curve.... but i have lot of rust underneath the door (after knocking with a little hammer...)

the second one

what did you thinks about this pictures???? could i found the same things behind????

thanks for your reply, finaly i have used 75w80 motul with winns easy gear change oil additif. And in the r200 i have used 75w90 oil but i have a problem with, when i speed up or when i slow down i hear a bad sound from the r200, and when i have the left rear wheel up and when i turn it i can feel too many clearence (i think).... the r200 was already open....so perhaps some bad news... how many clearence can you feel when you test like i do? how many is normal? How can i test the r200 to feel what is the problem?