Smokey

Saweet!!! I want one!

Yes, I am talking about the half shafts. Didn't even think about the actual drive shaft, although that could also cause some thumping. Since you have new U-joints there, that should be just fine. I thought of a test that you could do to see if you have enough slop in the rear end to cause excessive movement. With the car in gear and the parking brake set, you and a buddy get behind the Z and start pushing it in a rocking motion. While the car is rocking, you should not see any front to back movement on the rear wheels relative to the fender openings. Then try the same trick with the parking brake off. With the car in gear, you should still have a lot of resistance to the rocking motion. If you hear clunking, it is likely your half shaft U-joints.

Check around the wheel well opening front to back, and top to bottom, and inside out. With the suspension so bad in the rear, you will be getting more movement front to rear than you would normally. This is supported by the toe issue you mentioned. When you are decellerating or braking, the diff will put a load on the wheels in a different direction then when its under power. This could be shifting the wheels and causing them to come in contact with some part of the body. You will notice scrub marks if this is the case. The tires you are using are both wider and taller than what was there before which would support why the new tires caused you to hear the noise. The smaller tires wouldn't be big enough to make contact. It might also be your U-joints on the rear axle going bad. The extra mass of the bigger tire could have put week joints over the edge. They would make a knocking sound under different loads similar to a CV joint in a front drive car when turning.

I have started to wonder the same thing. Looking at the pics, it looks like one piece with the fender, maybe just molded in. I would hope that they are just the buckets so they could be changed out and reverted back to the original round lights. I feel like a Jeep snob right now talking about round vs square lights. The round are just so much better looking IMO.

I'm working this weekend, or I would have to think about it really hard. I could grab a quick loan, fly down, and drive up....if we can put the points back in and get it running. That would be a long trip to NC though. Lemme see what kind of options I can come up with.

I just bit the bullet and looked at your repair log and checked out the pictures. If she didn't have the square headlight buckets I would be on a plane to Houston now. The first Z that I ever saw was in high school. It was a 280Z, silver, with the same spoilers front and back, fender flares, and deep black wheels. I drooled over that car for 3 years till it graduated. I've been into Z's ever since. If I had the money, and a way to easily get there I would so take it off your hands. Your asking price is a bit steep though (for me that is). If you are offering a "just for me" special, I would love to discuss it more through email NCPhotoTrekker@aol.com.

I agree that the shop should do the fix for you since you didn't request that they fill them. On the other hand, putting the emblems on is as simple as finding the right location and using double sided 3M foam tape. That is what holds on most of the emblems on cars these days and is very resiliant. It is thin enough not to be seen. This would give you the option of removing them later, or doing a custom mounting location for the hatch emblem. Just a thought. I would be weary of drilling holes since that will break the paint seal, and could potentially lead to rust if not properly sealed back up when the emblems are installed.

You should hire out a photographer to snap pics of your car which can be printed and hung in the garage. That will make it personal to you, and feed into your Z's want to look at itself when resting. I would love to come out and do a photo shoot with your Z, but I am nowhere near Houston. I could get your some tack sharp 17x25" prints though.

Jared, I'm in Winston-Salem, and work in Greensboro. You will probably be coming through my zone on I-40. If you see a slick top city police car on your tail, its just me checking you out.

Congratulations on finishing your project!! I'm sure that it will do well at the Nationals, but even if it doesn't I think that you have a 10/10 winner on your hands. I'm not much on swapping engines but there is no argument that you have a very capable car here that is in every way better than the factory intended. I have enjoyed reading the progress on this car and can't wait to see the professional pics. I would love the chance to fill my lenses with this car...but I'm not quite close enough to make that happen.

Just to add my two cents, Z's in the SE are getting harder to find in rust free shape. If this one has no rust, and the motor and other mechanicals are as advertised, it will get that price I imagine. Personally, for me in this area I would expect near that price for this car. If I had it to spend, I would jump on it if you declined. Try offering $9,000 if it all pans out the way he says.

You need to get that bird crap off the windshield!!!! You will have your work cut out for you, but if you can pull it off, it will be a nice addition to any collection.

Wow.....Dora has aged well since the '70's! Great looking engine compartment. That intercooler really stands out (in a good way).

You know....I'm not a fan of the ZX bodies, but that is a very nice one! If it were a 5spd, I would have at least a fleeting thought of trying for it.

If the rust is bad enough, you need to deal with that before adding the go fast goodies. All that money you are wanting to put into mods will be wasted if the unibody car is not solid. I imagine that the rust you are talking about is on the floor pans. Your racing seat might fall through if you don't have good solid floors.