djwarner

I had a similar problem after some body work. It turned out the mechanic swapped the power and ground leads on a side marker lamp. It seems these are one of the few connections where this is possible. With dirt and grime, it is hard to tell which wire is power and which is ground. Other than something like that, you are pretty much looking for cut insulation somewhere.

Back in the early 1970 I bought a 510 wagon with one of the first Japanese automatic transmission in the US. While tooling down I10 at 80 MPH near Winslow AZ with 11,994 miles on the clock, I heard a loud bang and violent vibration began. Fortunately, I was just coming up to the exit and pulled off to a gas station. Up on a lift, the mechanic took the front end of the drive shaft and wobbled it around in a nice circle. Pulled the drive shaft and the sleeve bearing in the rear end housing slipped out with it. A half moon shaped chip had broken off the bearing and lodged between the bearing and spline. This spun the bearing in the aluminum housing and taken out the rear seal. The mechanic proudly explained there was a Datsun dealer in town, the local John Deere dealer, and the owner's son did the service work. On the way into town, I found that less the chip, I could accelerate up past 55 and ease off the throttle the vibration would stop until I slowed below 45. At 11,998 miles on a 12,000 mile warranty, the owner's son explained that he had never seen an automatic transmission, let alone one on a Datsun. He asked which way I was going and suggested I try to drive it back to selling dealership in Delaware or at least further east to a larger city. I got a letter explaining the failure had occurred while under warranty, and bought 4 quarts of transmission fluid. Headed east. The interstate was still under construction then and I was repeatedly dumped onto service roads dropping my speed below the 45 MPH trip point. Got as far as Dallas before it gave out. But because the transmission was new to the US, there were no parts available. After a week in Dallas, the regional Datsun rep told the dealer to pull the parts from a new car. Funny thing is that I had waited to buy the wagon until the Japanese transmissions were available because the Borg Warner units used previously had a poor reliability reputation. What I didn't know was that the Japanese unit was the Borg Warner design made under license.

Having only seen the Felpro gasket, I never knew the OEM form of sealing the passage. The Felpro has a thin bead of rubberlike sealant around the opening as well as around the water passages. Apparently it works quite well with the 13 psig max coolant and prone to problems with 70-100 psig cold oil. At this time I'm looking for a belt and suspenders solution for the next time I pull the head. Will definitely go with an OEM head gasket but would still appreciate knowing the passage diameter from anyone with and extra head laying around.

Oil consumption has been a problem since acquiring my Series I in Aug 2012 (quart every 300 miles). After changing valve guide seals and other checks, I isolated the problem to a leak at the head gasket between #3 and #4 cylinders where the oil galley feeds the cylinder head. I changed the head gasket with a Felpro. I bought the gasket before opening the engine and discovered there was a Felpro gasket already installed. Flatness was within spec for both the block and head, so I preceded to install the new Felpro only to get the same leak at the same place. The Felpro gasket has thin bead of rubber on one side around the hole for the oil flow and apparently this is still allowing leakage during operation at higher oil pressures. While reading the Tech Service Bulletins, I found a fix for a similar problem in A12 engines TS72-77. The fix uses an open rivet (eyelet) to hold an o-ring between the head and block. Apparently the eyelet prevents the collapsing of the o-ring during installation. Trying to do a little reverse engineering, the o-ring will allow the differential thermal growth while accommodating more variation in the head/block gap than a paper gasket. What makes this solution attractive to me is that otherwise my E31 head holds good idle vacuum and compression. Valve seats were reworked in 2002 but comments with the paperwork say it may not be rebuildable again (due to erosion?). Before opening the engine again, I would like to gather the needed materials. I need the diameter of the oil galley hole in the head or block to properly size the eyelet and o-ring. Also, this width and length of the corresponding hole in the head gasket would be helpful.

I was first introduced to dry ice blasting around 1992 where it was used to strip private airplanes prior to re-painting. I expect the wheel well being blasted in the video was coated in a rubberized undercoating. It would have stripped away much faster if it had been ordinary paint. The advantage is no VOC's used in the removal process. It also won't stress the metal underneath.

aj, Any retailer of a chemical product can/must provide the MSDS upon request. If you have any interest in such a product, an inquiry is warranted.

The change in eBay fees was due to some sellers offering goods at very low prices and inflated shipping charges to reduce the fees paid. The total fees paid to eBay with the new policy should be the same regardless of how the seller sets the out the door price. However that doesn't prevent unscrupulous seller from twisting it to their advantage. If they were screwing eBay, they are likely to try you on for size as well. Caveat emptor.

The 70 and 71 240Zs were not equipped with AC or fuel pumps - or courtesy lights in the foot wells - or fog lamps, but they were included in the wire harness. You should consult the FSM and supplemental FSM for these years.

I believe if you trace them back, one will lead to the fan switch and is a power lead provision for the air conditioner. The other may be a provision for an electric fuel pump. Are you a member of the Sun Central Z Club? If not, check out their facebook page.

Tech Service Bulletin TS71-21 issued 3/30/71 changed the spark plug spec in L24s to BP6ES applicable to current production as well as earlier engines. Reason given was a wider heat range for plugs with projected tips. The R added to the number indicates an internal resistor to suppress radio static. Not required if your high tension leads incorporate resistors.

Recently, our driving experience has deteriorated.... but happens every winter in Florida. But every time I think its getting bad, I remember it could be worse as in.....

as you requested Blue zTechB6972.xls

I finally got around to reading the TechBulletins 69-72 and extracted those numbers applicable to our Z's. Of interest, I found the tech bulletin that described the phosphor bronze washer added to the rear stub axle assemblies. Another bulletins states that the first production Z's with electric rear window defroster was serial number HLS30-01456. Here is my list sorted by Bulletin Number zTechB6972.xls

I chose this option because I wanted to keep the fresh air / recirculate lever. The fan switch area of the panel is not flat, so I used the smaller control and added an extra power port.

What finish compressor would i like? V-belt or serpentine? - Compressors come with a variety of pulleys to match those in your car. They probably haven't seen an S30 and don't realize you need a V belt pulley. Billet aluminium control or just an ABS plastic pod? - This is a matter of Bling? Ya pays ya money and takes ya choice. Rubber A7C lines or stainless braided and plastic vents or billet? - Again, a matter of bling. WHy all these questions? - As a provider of AC to Hot Rodders and Customizers, Vintage Air has developed kits for many cars including the Bling Meisters. But the S30 in not one of them. However, Vintage Air systems can be used on your car. Want to blow your mind with options, download their catalog.

While the informed among us can pick slivers of misinformation from the body of the article, I was particularly amused at Windows's German translation. This alone made the time spent worthwhile: "Who manages, in Germany to get an early Datsun 240Z , the must is lucky. Fast times in one who is looking for a copy of many Internet automotive Internet-exchanges, test drive and pay that do not work, because this sports car from Yokohama in Japan under the name Fairlady sold, are not easy to find."

Ran across this site last night: Online Manuals Of particular interest was his copy of Datsun Technical Bulletins from 1969-1972. It answers questions about when and where the head gaskets were changed, and the corresponding head bolt change. As well as a good description of the dual point distributor setup. One bulletin was of particular interest regarding oil leakage at the head gasket. It was for a smaller engine, but I've had a recurring problem with an oil leak to the outside between the #3 and #4 cylinders even after changing the head gasket. The bulletin shows an oring being inserted inside the gasket opening for the oil galley feeding the head. Could be a workable solution for my problem. Lots of good information contained in this manual.

The red car is 7 inches longer, 7 inches wider, 1.5 inches higher, with a wheel base 13.5 inches longer, and carries around an extra 1,000 lbs.

Removing the tubes feeding air into the exhaust ports is apt to prove difficult due to corrosion. A new header won't have them of course. The easiest way is to simply apply a rubber cap to the nipple if the check valve body is intact.

When someone removed the air pump on my car, they plugged a piece of hose with a bolt. Over time the bolt and hose acted like a pendulum and would resonate at certain frequencies. Eventually, the nipple on the check valve cracked and started leaking. While feeling around for the source of a noise the nipple broke off in my hand. The "air injection check valve" is still required in some states and is available on ebay and other places. I ordered one and got a rubber cup style plug at the auto parts store to seal it off.

As long as we're on the subject, I was thinking about the chrome stripe on the door card. Mine has peeled away in spots. I was thinking about 3/8" wide chrome Mylar tape but haven't found any local sources. Has anyone come up with a better idea?

Thanks Diseazd, as you know, at TDC, several different links will line up with the sprocket mark. Since I didn't dis-assemble the front case, I used a wedge to jam the chain. To ensure I engaged the right link, I degreased the link and sprocket and marked both with a magic marker. Worked fine.

My chain has 179K miles on it and the head has been reworked so the chain is already set on position #3. While changing the head gasket I snapped this photo as a guide for re-installation.

Hi Chris, I have a car manufactured in the last week of December 70 and titled in Glendale in June of 71. Mine started in CA, went to VA, then OH and now lives in FLA. Sounds like yours is a late Series I car from CA and has some value to collectors over later cars. What do you plan to do with your Z? I have been slowly returning mine to as new drivability, having put 12,000 miles on over the last year. BTW I just got "Year of Manufacture" FLA Plate authenticated and registered for my car, understand CA has a similar program. In FLA the car has to be mfg'ed in 1975 or before, plates have to be authentic to the year of mfg. and must be inspected by the DMV to verify the plate is serviceable and the number is not currently assigned to another vehicle. Welcome to the club, you will find a lot of help from the forum members. Pictures, colors, and VIN numbers for the group would be appreciated.

He does get the prize for most pictures submitted on a ebay listing, though.