djwarner

My 240Z had dual downdraft webers when I bought it with a linkage that never quite worked right. The setup had a 5/16' shaft that ran from the stock rear linkage bearing, through the ears on the balance tube for the OEM linkage to a rod end mounted ahead of the forward carb linkage. Three arms connected to shaft connected the two carburetors and the throttle pedal linkage. This setup was subject rattling at the balance tube ears and transmitted vibration to the pedal. I was also concerned about potential for binding as the engine flexed in the motor mounts. After looking at the OEM setup, I thought about making bearings to support the shaft at the balance tube ears. I found that two pieces of brass tubing 3/8" OD x .014" wall and 11/32" OD x .014" wall stepped the 5/16" shaft up to ear diameter quite nicely and made a neat sleeve bearing spanning the gap between the ears. But when I ran the shaft through the new bearing, I found the aft linkage bearing did not line up. This was not an important issue in the OEM linkage as there was a U joint (now missing from my car). The original weber linkage rod was prevented from shifting fore and aft by c-rings on either side of the front rod end. Besides the occasional slipping that altered alignment, it frankly was just not that rigid. So I ended up buying a diecast low speed U-joint and 2 set screw locking collars from McMaster-Carr for $15. This is what I ended up with:

Considering how easy it is to spend $60+k on a full restoration, $27K sale is not out of the realm of possibility. I don't know if you would call a 240z with an L28 and 5 speed restored.

First thing to check is the PCV valve and hose for clogs. Next step would be to a compression check.

My Series I is also an automatic with blue interior, though it originally had a white exterior. Looks like your door panels are missing. Been trying to determine exactly how many Series I automatics are still registered. Besides being a candidate for conversion to racing, I understood many automatics were converted to manual transmissions. This was particularly easy for Series I cars as the clutch pedal mounting brackets were left in the car. Your car makes 8 automatics I know of, one was actually converted from manual to automatic, one converted to manual. According to Carl Beck the last pure Series I was SN 20848 and the first equipped with an automatic transmission was SN 8944 . Though I cannot verify it, I understand 90+% of 240's were manual transmissions. This would suggest that less than 1200 Series I automatics were produced. With the attrition rates for a 43 year old car, I would expect very few Series I automatics survive, probably no more than 60 (5%?). As far as I know blue interiors were only offered on the Series I on the dark blue and white exterior colors.

Hi David, You have given conflicting data regarding the vin and circular Z emblem on the sail. There is a data plate in the rear of the driver's door well that gives the month and year of manufacture as well as the vin number. If it was made Jan 71 or before, it is a Series I. If it is a matching numbers Series I car, I would suggest you find another L6 engine to modify and store the original engine intact. Used engines can be picked up reasonable, a matching number engine is irreplaceable. Whatever you pay for the second motor will be returned several times over when you eventually sell the car. If the door data plate indicates the car is a Series II, have fun and do whatever you like. I understand the car was given to you so your only sense of value is how it can fulfill you dreams. It will have a value after your dreams are realized though. I am only suggesting preserving value if only to help fund your next dream.

If sounds like a series I with a replaced rear hatch. Series I tool storage area was within a black plastic lid behind the seats. In the Series II cars there are small doors on the forward part of the cargo floor covering small wedge shaped storage areas. In the Series I the wedge shaped areas are there but are sealed up under a section of linoleum that covers the entire cargo floor. There is an id panel in the driver's door well that shows the vin and month of manufacture. Series I production ended in January 1971. From your description I would think your vehicle was assembled in October or November of 1970. My Series I was assembled in the last days of December 1970.

I think the first question is whether the head was set up for a sub-woofer? Or whether the settings in the head have the capability of supplying a sub-woofer output even though none were installed in the previous car. When running a sub-woofer, low frequencies through the main speakers are attenuated. Also, if the front speakers were tweeters, low frequencies will also be attenuated. Do you know about the particular installation the head came out off?

Actually once you lean past best power A/F ratio, power will start to ebb while cylinder head temperatures rise. However, if you continue to lean the mixer, power will continue to fall but so will head temperatures as there is less fuel and some oxygen remains unused. Charles Lindbergh made a major contribution to the WWII war effort by teaching severe leaning for ferry flights of fighters when crossing the Atlantic and the vast expanses of the Pacific.

Hi Mike, if you bought a 30 year old car and didn't have any issues....... We're here to help.

Wow John, tried using Search Tempest for Craigslist entries within 500 miles of La Habra for 1970 Datsun 240z. It only came up with two hits on Craigslist, a Chevy powered Z in Yuma, and one in Fresno that was deleted by the author. Of course I omitted posting for fenders, etc. What did I do wrong?

Monofilament fishing line catches another.

When I first heard you saying you wanted to hack up a Series I car, I was aghast. They were top of the list in an Sept 2013 CLASSIC MOTORSPORTS article titled "Golden Opportunities - 18 Classic Cars you should buy RIGHT NOW!" May not be the highest and best use of a rare and getting rarer every day vehicle. But as I thought about it, hacking it up will only make mine rarer, so go ahead, have fun.

I had a defective clip on my series I 240z. Ended up getting a single station fuse holder from Radio Shack. I carefully sectioned out the defective clip and squared the hole I made with a Dremel tool. Carefully cut the new fuse holder apart and fitted it into the newly made hole. Epoxied in the new clip and soldered in the lead. Hard to detect with the fuse cover on, but there if you look for it. So yes it can be done, but it won't pass for a concourse restoration.

The other replies seem very comprehensive. Since you rebuilt the carbs, I suggest you double check that the vents from the float bowls are piped back to the air cleaner assembly with rubber hose. If your car does not have a vapor canister, there is a vapor control valve on the driver's side that has two lines. One is ported to the air cleaner assembly, the other is ported to the PCV pipe coming out of the block. These things significantly reduce the fuel smell in my Series I car.

Ok. got to answer my own question. An E31 head with valves, lifters, cam and thermostat housing less manifolds and valve cover weighed in at 51.8 lbs. Head and cylinder block are no de-carbed, clean and flat for re-assembly tomorrow.

This almost certainly dirty contacts in the turn signal switch, rarely it is caused by the hazard switch contacts. Unfortunately, cleaning the contacts is not a job for the novice. It is very easy to break off the tabs holding the switch together and re-assembly has some tricks to it. I believe there is a forum member that will repair/re-condition the switch but I don't remember his name. Try searching turn signal switch repair.

Double checked my 1970 Datsun Engine Manual and found the 32.5 and 47 ft-lb spec in three places. Interestingly, immediately at the start of "Install the Cylinder head assembly." there is "Note: a. Spread sealing agent over the cylinder block surface. Place gasket on it, and apply sealing agent to the gasket top." There is a similar note for the gaskets of the timing chain cover. I thought head gaskets were installed without sealant. Spent the afternoon de-carbing the cylinder head. Pistons and block in the morning.

Ok, Got the head off and on the bench. Noticed that the oil galley hole feeding the head appears to have an orifice jet about 2mm in diameter. I assume this is correct and not a piece of junk blocking the oil feed. With the three design variations in head gaskets and three different head bolt torque specs, Contacted FelPro for what the felt the specs were for their gasket. They came back with the factory spec.s of 33 ftlbs, followed by 47 ftlbs for my 12/70 car. Have others had satisfactory performance at this low torque spec?

I'm just about ready to pull my head to change a head gasket. How much does an E31 head, cam, and valves weigh? After a day bending over the fenders pulling manifolds, my back is complaining. Just trying to figure out what I'm in for tomorrow. Is it a two man lift?

Recently my wife bought a 2006 350z. Looking at them side by side in the garage, besides the 1000 lbs difference in weight, I realized that if my 240z was a Fairlady, then my wife's car was a Fat Lady. When my wife heard me calling it a Fat Lady, I quickly told her I said PHAT LADY.

The choke cable is connected to an idle enrichment mechanism. If the car only runs with the choke on, it is probably set up way too lean.

Thanks for the info. hr369.... Don't have the equipment readily available. With good compression and valve sealing what would I detect? We have a Car Quest in the area but didn't think to check with them. The images of the Ishino gasket has smaller holes for the oil and coolant compared to the Fel Pro. Zedyone.... Local Nissan Dealer can get the head gasket for $89 plus priority shipping. Courtesy has it for $68. They also have a Nissan head gasket set for Something over $240. Just what will I need, some have suggested changing the head bolts and exhaust manifold bolts as well. Any anti-seize paste?

Ok, since getting my Series I about a year ago, I've had a nagging problem of oil consumption. Been systematically sorting things out and here is what I've found. History - Original E31 Head was rebuilt in 2003. Believe the head was milled because the documentation said head could not be rebuilt again because of corrosion. The PO got the car back on the road after a 2 year period sitting in a garage. PO's father said there had been a coolant leak at the head gasket that was solved by re-torqueing the head bolts. I found some evidence of oil leaking at the head gasket between the #3 and #4 cylinders above the oil filter, but it was never more than a stain. I have driven the car some 11K miles over the last year and have been adding a quart every 300-400 miles. I now have 178K on the odometer. Replacing the valve guide seals eliminated the puff of blue smoke after idling for a red light. Systematically verified no leak in the front or rear crank seals and eliminated any seepage around the oil pan by re-torqueing the those bolts. I have been changing the oil and filter every 1,000 miles to eliminate any silt or sludge. Have tried to free the oil control rings by adding an ounce of ATF to each cylinder, then repeated with MMO to no avail. New PCV valve and NOS braided PCV hose. I can easily blow back into the crankcase from the PVC hose indicating no blockage in the baffles. The PCV hose and Valve Cover hose are clean and dry. I connected a sensitive digital manometer to the small fitting on the crankcase vent tube (pcv hose attachpoint). This fitting is used for the fuel tank evaporative control system. The pressure in the PCV hose never rose more than 0.02 mmHg. Suction at the PCV fitting checked good. Valves and compression rings appear good to very good. Pulls a steady 19.5" vacuum at idle. Compression checks 205-210 psi on all cylinders. Thinking the high compression may be due to coke accumulation and a shaved head, I have performed Seafoam treatment three times. Most of the carbon(coke) on the piston tops is now gone with the exception of the #3 Cylinder which had the heaviest coking to begin with. After the Seafoam treatment, I replaced the Bosc Platinum plugs with the recommended NGK plugs. Checking every 100 miles, the #3 plug has some evidence of oil fouling while the others are clean. For the last oil change I used 15W40 Diesel oil and thought I had finally gotten some relief. This was contra-indicated when I realized that the previous 300 miles was around town driving. Once I got the car back on the highway, oil consumption resumed at the previous rates. After a highway trip, I popped open the hood and discovered fresh oil traces above the oil filter (between the #3 and #4 cylinders). I de-greased the area as best I could thinking I would tape on a plastic envelope to so I could measure the seepage rate. But the oil present prevented any tape from sticking. After this, I decided to coat the area with children's sidewalk chalk to verify the seepage. Sure enough, at low speeds, little or no seepage. At highway speeds, the area shows damp to wet. So the leakage appears to be at the oil galley supplying the cylinder head. With leakage occurring with a hot engine and moderately high oil pressure. Doing research on this forum, it would seem that the next step would be to re-torque the head bolts before doing anything more drastic. Considering that the PO and his father were not professional mechanics, I have no assurance of their work. I been putting off the re-torque until I would have time to be without the car for a while if I broke off a head bolt. But I will probably attack it this week. Assuming the re-torque does not solve the problem, I've been researching the head gaskets. Fel-Pro appears the least expensive version but a spotty performance record. Others brands are DNJ, Stone, Beck Arnley, Victor Reinz, and Ishino ( a Japanese OEM manufacturer). Nissan head gasket kits have been revised 3 times but appear to be NLA. Looking at pictures of the various brands, there are significant differences in profiles almost as if they back engineered their head gaskets according to the various revisions of the Nissan gasket. I'm not trying to soup this engine up, just seeking to avoid tearing into the bottom end if I don't need to. While the oil control rings could be bad, I would think a head gasket replacement would be a logical step before that. Any informed opinions about the various brands?

Examine the back side of the fuse panel for corrosion. First things first, power comes in through the white and white-red wires. When checking voltage, use a chassis ground. If you have no voltage anywhere, check the ground cable from the battery. If you are finding voltage on some fuse terminal and not others, turn on the ignition switch and retry. If you have voltage on some and not others, suspect corrosion in the fuse panel.

Chilton's says, "A small deposit of light tan or grey material (or rust red with unleaded fuel) on a spark plug that has been used for any period of time is to be considered normal."