djwarner

To be honest I was so tickled pink that it was running reliably that I re-installed it and put the new glove box in. 5-10 minutes per day was perfectly acceptable for a car clock in the day. I'm not that anxious to pull the new glove box out and play for several days to get it any closer.

The compressor is mounted low on the driver's side where the air pump was located. Condenser coil mounted in front of the radiator bracket. The dryer and pressure cutout switch mounted on the passenger inner fender. Hoses make a loop as follows: Compressor forward to the condenser coil. Out of the condensor coil across the front to the passenger side then back to the dryer. From the dryer to the switch and then into the passenger compartment under the battery. To the evaporator box and back out under the battery again. Then across the fire wall to the driver's side and back up to the compressor. The heater line run through the original holes with the control valve mounted behind the evaporator fan. I used bulkhead fitting through the firewall but if I were to do it again, I would just run heater hoses per the OEM design.

My 42 year old clock has been ticking away, about 10 minutes/day fast for the last two weeks. When I got my car last August, one of the first things I did was to wash down the insides with contact cleaner from Radio Shack. I noticed that the pressure from the spray had dislodged a pin from the spring that is wound by the electric motor. I carefully repositioned it and it seemed to work on the bench. However, once I put it back together and re-installed it, it would stop after five-ten minutes. Not expecting much for my efforts, I turned my attention to other, more pressing issues. Two weeks ago, I was installing a locally fabricated glove box and decided to take another look at the clock before I buttoned things up. Took the clock out, removed the back cover, and powered up the clock to see if I could figure out what was binding. Lo and behold, the clock ran merrily through the night. The next day, examining the clock prior to re-assembly, I determine that I had not dressed the power leads correctly when I had re-assembled the clock the last time. Putting the clock back, it has been ticking away as if it was brand new. The only problem is that it is running fast about 10 minutes/day, probably because I washed out all the lubricating oil. Ask me if I'm tickled pink.

If you are lucky enough to have the Datsun warranty card, automatics had the model code of HLS30A. A is for automatic.

Contrary to some comments above, none of my local autoparts stores carried Propylene Glycol. I am about to install an aluminum radiator and think the additional corrosion protection would be worthwhile since I'm going to be replacing the coolant anyway. I found the local Tractor Supply store carries Propylene Glycol for use on cattle at $22/gal. Evans claims to have patent protection for their products, so commercial opportunites may be limited. Again, as others have said, experiment at your own risk.

The general rule of thumb is that the tread width should be equal to the rim width +- a half and inch. I just mounted 205/70R14 on my standard height series I 240Z with no problems.

Evans does not post an MSDS on their website but will supply one upon request. Someone has and then posted it at: http://contrails.free.fr/temp/NPG+_MSDS.PDF It lists components as 66-70% Ethelene Glycol, <2% Corrosion Inhibitor, and the balance made up of Propylene Glycol and water. In another section of the MSDS it lists Ethelene Glycol at >= 69%. In the Leno video, the Evans rep said you must keep the water content below 3%. From all given, I would assume the make up would be 70% Ethelene Glycol, 28% Propylene Glycol, and the balance corrosion inhibitor and water that slipped by accident.

I'm looking for a high resolution image of the classic "Z" Logo as input for a Photoshop project. A flat Z or image of an Emblem will do. Looking for something that could be blown up to 12" or larger. Thanks in advance.

Carl, Could you PM me with the name of the specialty shop. I have a rear bearing that starts to whine once it gets fully warmed up.

and #4a. Why does bread start off soft and go hard when it gets stale while Oreos start off hard and then go soft?

When the dealers added on Mag wheels, the OEM spare required different lug nuts. So the dealers would retain a set of the original lug nuts and include them in the toolkit.

I agree with everything you said, John. The reason for the new radiator is the poor seal of my already re-cored radiator. It would only leak after shutdown and the waterpump no longer circulated water through the radiator. Hot spots in the engiine would raise the temperature enough to boil the mixture and force coolant out the leaks from the pressure rise. While I haven't run my new VintageAir system in the Florida summer yet, I haven't seen temperatures exceeding 190 degrees with the engine running. (I have recently calibrated the gage so I'm confident in the reading.) I would expect with the additional capacity of the aluminum radiator, I will not see temperatures ever reaching the boiling point with the engine running. Our old coolant systems are different than modern ones with coolant recovery systems. The newer systems are expected to run without air (or steam) in the system. As the mixture warms and expands, the cap relieves the pressure to the external tank. On shutdown and cool off, a vacuum is created and the coolant sucks back in from the tank. Our systems were designed to have some air in the top of the radiator and to simply vent excess pressure. This is why we often find the radiator cap stuck on by the reduced pressure when the system cools down after venting. This reduced pressure will actually lower the boiling temperature. As for the ability to carry off heat, specific heat as it is called, this is only one part of the equation. The ability to transfer heat to the radiator and the ability for the radiator to transfer heat to the outside air and the rate at which coolant circulates through the system are also significant factors. Since I'm running a more or less stock engine, I won't be seeing the heat loads of out racer friends.

According to what I've learned, there is about 250 PPM Silicone in the concentrated Antifreeze, about 125 PPM when diluted. It is the Silcone the lays down on the aluminum for corrosion protection. After its been in the system for a while, the Silicone in solution is reduced. Thus when you put fresh aluminum in the system without replenishing the Silicone, the radiator is susceptible to corrosive attack. A 50-50 solution also raises the boiling temperature compared to a 25-75 mix, a desirable trait in FL.

Considering it was a gloried milk jug originally, I wouldn't hold out much hope. If your to do list is that short, BlackDragonAuto has a universal windshield washer kit that looks identical to my series I unit for $20. At that price, there's no reason to let smashed bug win.

Thanks for the lead, Stanley. Went to HOSE BOSS in Tampa today and picked up a Brass fitting with a hose barb. The other line has a 6 inch metal line that was flared to a flat face rather than a cone. I figured I will cut off the flat and re-flare the line. Unfortunately, HOSE BOSS didn't have a matching brass flare nut and I settled for two piece steel unit with very little room for the flare. Later I stopped in a Home Depot and they had exactly the flare nut I was missing. Should have stopped there first and saved myself the 45 mile trip. Been looking for advice on protecting the Aluminum Radiator from Electrolysis. First thing I learned was to always flush and refill with new 50-50 coolant. Second, if you are not using premixed, use distilled water to dilute the concentrated stuff. New 50-50 solution provides enough silicon to coat the interior of the radiator to prevent corrosion. The third and most important step is after you've filled the radiator. With a digital meter capable of displaying down to tenths of a volt, measure both AC and DC voltage between the negative terminal of the battery and the coolant. Measure with the engine running and with various other systems on and off. You should read 0.2 volts or less. 0.3 volts will cause corrosion and 0.9 volts will lead to rapid failure. Voltage leakage is usually caused by flaky wiring and/or grounding. AC voltage is caused by electrical noise coming from somewhere in the car.

Yes, so drain the radiator.

After finding my original(?) radiator had been re-cored previously and in bad shape, I opted for an all aluminum radiator available on Ebay made in the PDRC. Got it in today and didn't look all that bad but Inoticed the Transmission Oil Cooler fittings were welded in place. They are appear to be male metric flare fittings. M14x2 I guess. Needless to say, they don't match what is there. A quick check of our local parts stores came up empty. I'm sure I'm not the first to face this. Any success stories out there?

I wouldn't get hung up on just the spray applicator. Though I can see its application in the Z's nooks and crannies.

Corrosion in aviation is almost as bad as on Datsuns due to the dissimilar metals used in aircraft constuction. They have long used a material created by Boeing called Boeshield T-9 Corrosion Protectant. It displaces water and leaves a waxy coating for long term protection. Here is a link to a supplier: BOESHIELD T-9 CORROSION PROTECTANT from Aircraft Spruce They also have several corrosion control products.

These may be a group of people trying to gen up some business, but they tell an interesting story. The attached video does a pretty good job of explaining where they're coming from. Survivor Collector Car

I have heard that cars in that category are gaining more attention and that this might be a desirable certification without going to the expense of a full restoration. I was wondering whether any of you had gotten the certification, considered it but declined, or are currently considering it.

The most likely cause of a slow compressor leak is a worn oring at the input shaft. These orings need to be lubricated periodically. Everyone should run their AC at least a few minutes every month to recirculate oil to the oring. When I lived in Chicago, this was a common problem when the AC went for six months without ever being turned on. Since I moved to Florida 29 years ago, I have never heard of anyone having this problem. As for whether you can do the repair yourself, I've never attempted it.

If you need a tool to change the valve guide seals, there is one for sale in the classified section. Reference # RF117008

Carl, Once your wife sees the empty trailer sitting there, she's going to want the extra bedroom back. If you don't want to load/unload it several times a year, I'd hide it.

I printed out the photo provide by Dr Z above and used the width of the seatbelt buckle as a reference. From that image I estimate that distance to be 210mm. (I have recently installed blue seat cover from Motorsports and had neglected to measure the holes while the covers were off). Dan's measurement works out to 216mm. The difference should be beyond the tolerance of my measurement technique. Then I realized that with self tapping screws into the fiberglass seat back, this may have been an eyeball measurement on the factory floor. Moreover, with self tapping screws, you might not want to try to hit the original hole anyway.