djwarner

ah so... thanks.

Sounds interesting. How did you remove the old guides without removing the head? Then how did you press in the new guides? Did you have to rotate the crank to hold the valves against the piston top, Etc. On light aircraft engines, the valve guides would build up coke and eventually cause the valve to seize. Some mechanics could ream the guide out without removing the cylinder head by allowing the valve to fall into the combustion chamber and then finessing the valve back out after the reaming was completed. My engine manual says is should take two tons of pressure from the cylinder side to press the guides out. Please tell me about your method.

Glad to oblige. VIN HLS30-17574, L24-021025, automatic with total mileage of 168K. California car, first owner moved it to Roanoake, VA kept it until 2009 though it sat for several years before selling. Next owner, garaged it in Ohio, got it up and running again until he sold it to me this week. Only rust problem was in the passenger rear wheel well. Engine is original, never overhauled, has dual weber carbs, missing air pump, has new electronic distributor, alternator, voltage regualtor battery, plugs and wires. Body was originally white with blue interior. Last owner painted car gray metallic (cheap overspray). Interior has new carpet and black seat covers, otherwise original blue. Previous owner drove it until last winter where sat garaged until putting it up for sale. I drove the car home, a trip of about 1,000 miles averaging 73 mph and getting 28 mpg. Only downside was I burned 4 quarts of oil. Since getting it home, I've been looking it over and the body is in better shape than I'd hoped. The car has never seen salt and the under battery area looks sound. I was looking for a condition 4 car that could be upgraded to a condition 3 reasonably. After looking at the body, I wondering if I should be aiming a little higher. We've all heard about the guys who put more money into restore their cars than what they bring when they're sold. Being recently retired, I don't have that luxury. This was definitely a "bucket list" purchase for me. I've been in love with the 240z since I saw my first one in 1970 while I was stationed at Edwards AFB and living in Rosamound CA. Lived very close to the Bob Bondurant driving school. That first 240z was Racing Green with a Ginger interior. Wife and I looked at the car, looked at each other, then at our 15 month old daughter. We looked back at each other and just sighed.

Just bought my first 240z, 1971 series I with 167K miles on original engine. First look shows the front end sitting high. Measuring heights at the center of the bumpers show the front about 1.5" high. Struts still dampen without overshoot. My first plan of action is to replace suspension bushings as the old ones are hard as a rock and cracked. While I have some maintenance records, I haven't found any records on servicing the struts. Any suggestions on how to restore the original height?