djwarner

Pollution control differences. I've always set timing at 17 BTDC with vacuum advance disconnected at idle speed. I arrived at this number by an old timers rubric of adjusting the timing at idle to maximize vacuum. When reconnecting a vacuum line from the manifold timing would advance to over 30 degrees at idle. Then I learned to use the vacuum port on my Weber Carbs and idle timing returns to 17. It turns out the Weber port is only active when decelerating and this is when you need the vacuum advance. Can't say what happens with SU carbs. Never had a knock problem using these settings.

Actually the '70 510 AT Wagon was my second 510. I traded in a '68 coupe for the wagon. At the time I was stationed on the east coast at Dover AFB Del and was temporarily assigned to the Edwards AFB CA. After getting there, I rented a home right outside the base and had a 26 mile commute to work. Between the long daily commute, weekends in Las Vegas and the cross country relocation, I put the 11,000+ miles on in only a few months. I was on my way back to Dover transiting Arizona when the transmission ate itself. Since the JATCO transmission had only been sold in the US for a few months, Datsun had no spare parts. The Dallas Datsun Sales Manager was all kinds of angry when he had to take his only AT equipped Wagon off the floor to cannibalize parts. Datsun dealerships of the time were somewhat spotty, especially out of the major markets. The dealership in Winslow AZ where I had my problems turned out to be the John Deere Farm Implements dealer. The head (read only) mechanic was the owner's son. He confessed that he had never seen any car with an automatic transmission. He was kind enough to write a letter verifying that the failure had occurred while the car was in warranty.

HS30-H, Thank you for correcting the MFG, the 3N71A was a JATCO. I have edited my post. Being able to avoid the Borg Warner AT was a major issue when I bought the '70 510 wagon as the BWs did not have a very good reputation in lower powered compact cars. Unfortunately, in my case the 3N71A ate the housing extension rear bearing and rear seal with 11,993 miles on the clock. Being 2500 miles from the selling dealer at the time didn't help. Dealers had no spare parts and would sell me AT fluid and tell me to try to get home. After a 1000 miles in Dallas, the transmission demanded I stop. I hoped that since Datsun had a major parts facility in Houston, I would be back on the road soon. A week later the Area Rep for Datsun had the dealer pull parts off of their demo car to get me back on the road. Knowing the rarity of the 3N71A back then, I wonder if the '69 publicity car may have had a BW transmission.

We had quite a discussion about surviving Series I ATs a while back. Try searching Series 1 '71 blue on blue automatic - purist debate Series 1 '71 blue on blue automatic - purist debate From that conversation I would say you definitely have a very early one. I estimate there are no more than 50 series I ATs still on the road as ATs. Many were later converted to MTs. ATs were not available at the initial introduction. Up to 1970 all Datsun ATs were Borg Warner units. I bought one of the first JATCO equipped 510s brought into the US. AT 240Zs were not available til later in 1970. All 240Z ATs were JATCOs, made in Japan under license from Borg Warner.

Copart is where I bought my wife's totaled Camaro. In Florida, the buyer has to be a dealer because Copart won't collect sales taxes. I had to find a straw dealer to work through adding to the costs. This is not always clear when you go to their site and can be a problem if the car you want is coming up for sale in the near future.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/72-6-66-1-HUB-CENTRIC-RING-FITS-NISSAN-ALTIMA-MAXIMA-SENREA-/110724555574?hash=item19c7b2a336:g:BJgAAOSw-vlViIU~&vxp=mtr

Basics with wrapping with leather are water and heat. When it came to stretching the leather around the three small gauges, I used tennis balls to mold to the openings while the leather dried. It took multiple cycles of wetting, stretching, drying to get a reasonable result. Even then the holes were not evenly centered and had some gaps around the gauges after they were installed. To resolve the miss fit, I first trimmed some scrap leather removed from other areas and fit them into the gaps. While this improved things, I could see the patches and it irked me. Then I saw some black hub rings on eBay. They looked close to the right size so I bought a set thinking they could serve a bezel ring. They fit perfectly. In gloss black, I could not have made a better set. As proof, I completely forgot about them until I read your post. Dont hesitate to ask for more help, I know how big a project you have going on.

Remember CA sets by exposure to moisture, not heat per se. When building models, I would often exhale through my mouth to set it off while holding the parts in position.

You might also find a product called Microballoons Filler at the hobby shop in lieu of baking soda. This is a fine powder make up of hollow glass spheres and was developed for filling gaps back before CA gels. The advantage of Microballons is there is no heat generated.

Ok I've taken the door panels down and peeled the skins back up to the fuzzy strips. How do you get the strips off? There is some wear on the strips so I've ordered replacements. Any hints on installing them or info on replacing the stubby staples around the borders?

Thanks Jim, I'll keep that in mind once I get the card stripped down.

My drivers card has a couple of holes for the clasps torn out and some warping in the bottom front corner due to the tension on the old skin. I had been hesitant in re-fitting the old skin lest it look worse due to stretching. I will repair the torn holes with thin sheet metal. If necessary, I'll use steam to relax the warping.

I'm more worried above re-habbing the door panels themselves. I'm going to see Jim Fredricks this weekend, I'll probably pick his brain before going too far with the project.

Just got a set of blue reproduction 240z door skins from www.roadsterwerx.com. Got them for a great price. According to their site, they were made by the same company that made them for the Nissan remanufacture program. As you can see in the photos the color, textures, chrome strip, and heat sealed seams are identical to the OEM skins. I can' wait to get them installed.

I followed up with a question about when the car is sold. A license cannot be given to an inanimate object, but only to a living person. Thus when the car is sold, the new owner must apply for a new license. If I go the tribute route, I will offer to pay for the new owner's license. Still checking my options on the dent removal. In the mean time I have a set of blue reproduction door skins coming Wednesday. I'll be re-skinning the door cards while the car is in the shop.

I just got the information from BRE in their Tribute Car Program. It is pretty much as I described above. For a nominal fee you, as an individual, are granted a limited license to apply their color scheme, logos, etc to your car. This preserves their copyrights against commercial challenges of abandonment. Besides being right with the law - and doing right by BRE - you get specific details on colors, stripe dimensions, etc. You also get two decals indicating your official membership in their Tribute Car Program along with a certificate signed by Peter Brock.

I don't know is it was fat fingers or auto correct, I meant lumber not lumbar. And no I'm not from Maine. The Camaro engine is an LFX in the 2012 and 2013 model years. An interesting engine in that the exhaust manifold was incorporated into the heads. This reduces the overall width to 21 inches. The 323 HP it puts out will double the stock 165 HP of the MX5 Miata. The NC generation of the Miata will also accept the AT. Working with a company that produces the engine mount and a beefed up differential/drive train that bolts in. My wife is in a holding pattern right now. She needs a surgery that is done by a facial/cranial surgeon. Most of the work these surgeons do centers on correcting birth defects and thus they don't accept Medicare or Medicare Advantage Insurance. The at fault insurance company seems insistent on dragging this out to a court case and there won't be any funds for the surgery until the case is settled. I received a nice reply from BRE yesterday. It seems their concerns about protecting their copyright centers around commercial uses, but they need to protect against individuals to prove they have not abandoned the copyright. Because of this, they have established a tribute program for people like me. They will be sending additional information next week. For those of you who might be interested, Greg Ira of Revtec produced a video of a 240Z production race car with a gray over white BRE paint scheme. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=f679wAYm37Q

Hi Jim, BTW never had a chance to congratulate you on your Gold Cup. I took your advice to heart and sent off an Email to BRE. Will see what they say. Yes, my car was made in 12/70. According to Carl, the last SN made in December was 18124. About 3000 Zs were produced that year. If the production rate was near uniform, that would make mine produced some time around Christmas.

HUH Jim, I just noticed our serial numbers are 2254 apart but our engine numbers are only 817 apart.

It looks like I will be transplanting my LFX into a Miata and selling my Series I to finance the project. Then the mishap occurred. While parking the Z into the garage, a piece of lumber fell against the passenger front fender above and behind the wheel opening and jammed itself against the wall. The resulting dent is easily repairable but will require repainting. While discussing the repair at the body shop, I happened to pull out a photo of a BRE tribute paint scheme I had once considered. Since I am going to repaint the fender, hood and door anyway....... The question posed is would the tribute paint scheme enhance the salability of a Series I matching numbers rust free car. It is currently a gun metal metallic gray. The attached photos show how I would paint it. (thanks to Revtech for the source tribute image). Opinions of our esteemed members are encouraged.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding my front brakes finding interesting results. On the drivers side one piston was frozen with rust on the piston under the dust cover. But both pads were worn down 5.5mm. It appears that the retainer rings were under the dust covers rather than pressing the rubber against the housing. On the passenger side the rings and dust covers were in place but there was visible rust on the pistons. I tried to blow the pistons out with shop air per the book but they wouldn't budge. Pad wear was much more severe on one pad compared to the other 7.75mm and 4.5mm respectively. Looks like I was getting pad dragging. I am rebuilding the cylinders, replacing the discs and replacing the pads with Wagner Thermo Quiet ceramic pads. At a standstill at the moment because the one rotor doesn't want to separate and I have to visit my local garage in the morning to let them press the rotor off with their hydraulic press. I'll let you know how things work out. I'm expecting a significant improvement.

From the work you have already done and your RFQ I assume you are seeking a concours restoration. If you think the body work is expensive, wait til you try to source some of the replacement parts. Is this your goal or are you seeking a competent, reliable fun to drive car? When it comes to restoration costs, the sky's the limit - and you are guaranteed to lose money when you pass it on. So it is your option as to how much money you want to burn. Check Hagerty's website to figure how much your 1 rated car will be worth. While 240Zs have appreciated over the last few years, there is a practical limit on future appreciation. In Florida, a competent paint job alone will run $5-7K. If you are going to pull the suspension, consider powder coating.

Prayers up.

The Mini II has its own fan. One point I didn't mention was that the high speed power is fed through a relay rather than through the switch. If jakes' s installer eliminated the relay because he was using the OEM fan switch, he may be losing power at high speed.

I would agree that the mini II fan is not as powerful as the Datsun fan you replaced, but it has never failed to cool the car reasonably well. Due to the large rear glass, the car will tend to soak up heat when parked in the sun. When this happens, it takes longer to cool the air inside the car. You haven't described how you plumbed the three outlets. I piped mine to the two circular vents on the out board sides of the dash and the center vent above the OEM ventilation controls. Turning the fan up to high will increase the flow volume but the air coming out the vents will be warmer because the heat being removed is a near constant. Turning the Thermostat control colder will give far better results than turning the fan speed up. All in all, it is what it is. If you can crank the thermostat all the way cold with the fan turned all the way up and the coils don't freeze up, you are getting the maximum cooling the system is capable of producing. If you are seeking a strong breeze blowing on your face, the mini II isn't going to cut it.