djwarner

Actually, I'd like to find the car I was looking for when I bought my 240Z, a 1969 510 2 door stick. This was my first new car and it did every thing I asked of it. One time caught in a traffic bind entering an interstate, I wound it up to 75mph in second. When I did get a chance to shift, I went straight into 4th and ended up doing 90 before RPMs stabilized. Keith Martin would say it's not that valuable cuz they make scads of them, but boy, decent original cars are scarce.

If your oil pressure was dead steady with your old engine, it had the problem. Oil pressure should vary with the temperature of the oil and RPMs. When the engine is not warmed up, the oil pump must generate more pressure to circulate the thick oil. As engine RPMs increase more oil is pumped and will increase the output pressure. As the engine warms, it gets thinner and easier to push through the engine and thus less pressure is generated. The next question is whether you are burning oil or leaking it. Does the exhaust blow blue smoke? All the time or only after sitting at a stop light? How many miles have you put on the engine since the re-build? Some piston rings take a while to seat and seal properly. And finally, how much oil is being lost? How many miles do you drive before you are down a liter of oil?

Hi Pete, Added a washer yesterday. Couldn't add two because the spring went solid before the screw bottomed out. BTW I examined the spring ends and found that the were supposed to be ground flat. However one end had a very spotty grind and could very easily dug the end of the spring into the screw to act like a lock washer. A few strokes against a honing stone cleaned it up nicely. Hopefully the renewed flat and the washer will do the job.

This occurs with one carb.while the other carb is rock solid stable. Normal setting for my car is 1 1/4 turns. Most recently, after 700 miles, the problem carb was down to 1/2 turn. I tried reversing the spring but it has not helped. I suspect the spring ends have been acting like a lock washer urging the screw in. I have been thinking about adding some thin brass washers to decouple the spring and screw. Any suggestions?

Good Press is Good Press I guess. They did say the market for Z's is on fire right now - and this can become a self fulfilling prophesy. I suppose Japanese headlight covers and over riders are after market add-ons, but I don't know how that deducts from its value or condition. Having been to a Mecum auction, I can say there can be a large difference in how a car appears on television and how it really shows in person. What they didn't say is that it was a Series I car titled in '71 and may have therefore enjoyed a bump.

Thanks Jim, Looks like I would pass 15 visual modifications very rapidly. It's a daily driver life for me.

Ok, I went back and re-read the judging manual and it raises some questions. I have installed a VintageAir AC, would this be considered one visible variation or several, ie compressor, control panel, hoses, etc? Since the VintageAir control has it's own fan switch, I deleted the OEM switch and installed a second 12v power port. Would this be considered a separate visible modification? Gauges - no points are deducted for a non-functional gauge, ie the clock. I have installed a quartz mechanism from a light aircraft behind the original face. Hands are different (including a second hand) and a second setting knob protrudes from the plastic lens. This would be considered a visible modification? Do the rules allow a modern radio/sound systems under 9) of the Judging requirements. I have speakers installed in the triangular wedge voids in the front of the rear floor pan. (the ones used to hold the jack and tool pouch in Series II and later). Is this one visible modification, two, or none? I have dealer installed options, ie mag wheels, AMCO override bars (front and rear) and AMCO luggage bar. Each is considered one visible modification for a total of four even though they were there in the initial vehicle delivery? How about a passenger side outside rear view mirror? While I served in Air Force, the MAC started a competition for cargo air drops. The first year we got dinged for having surface rust on exterior screw heads. Next year we got dinged for having paint on those screws because the judges couldn't determine if there was rust underneath. So if I'm being too wary, it's because I've been run through the gauntlet a time or two. BTW my goal has been preservation rather than restoration and I would appreciate a Survivor class.

While I won't be attending this year, I decided to go over the website to learn about it. Reading the judging rules left me with more questions than it answered. I have a Series I 240z automatic that I have been working on to make as street able as possible. While I think of the car fairly original, the rules would seem to state it Would only qualify as a daily driver. Among the disqualifying modifications include: An aluminum radiator, Dual downdraft Weber carbs, A modern R134 air conditioner, An AC compressor mounted in place of the air pump, A leather covered dash, LED headlights. So am I damned to ride in the also ran class?

Depending on where you buy, it goes for $16-20 a bottle.

Did some research on bob the oil guy, and it appears this product is recognized for reducing cam lobe wear. Since I purchased it already and I am now approaching 600 miles on the break-in, I decided to use it. My immediate sensation is an engine noise reduction. While straight sixes are known for a silky idle, there is definitely an improvement. It actually sounds like a modern engine. Of course the biggest draw back is the price with our 3000 mile oil change interval.

These are American Dragmaster 6 hole Mags 14x5.5 zero offset. I believe these were sold with the car new in 1971. Center caps are aftermarket replacements.

Since my new rings are still seating in, I contacted hyper-lube about the suitability of their zinc replacement additive. Believe it or not, I actually got a response on Sunday morning saying it is a fine product to provide EP lubrication during break-in. EP stands for Extreme Pressure. EP lubricants act as a liquid until a certain pressure is reached when it acts like a solid. As soon as the pressure drops, it reverts back to a liquid. The idea is to prevent metal to metal contact and it resultant wear. This sort of contradicts the idea of break-in where the high points are removed. Have I got this wrong? EDIT--- OK I just re-read his email where the rep says "post break-in". So how many miles does it take to break-in an L24?

When I pulled my engine for its overhaul, I pulled from the side and even left the hood installed - but I pulled it without the transmission attached. Here are some significant points: Pulled the radiator; Removed the carbs, alternator, starter, fan and fan clutch; Unmounted the AC compressor from the air pump location and hung it from the inner fender; Removed the AC mount bracket; Disconnected the down pipe, throttle linkage, vacuum lines, gas lines, and ignition wiring; Since I have an AT, disconnected the torque converter; Used jack stands and removed the front passenger tire to gain clearance for the hoist; Supported the transmission; Measured the tilt angles (fore-aft and clockwise) with a digital level to facilitate a one man re-installation; Removed the bolts from the front engine mounts; Used a load leveler attached to the rearmost exhaust manifold stud and a threaded hole on the right side of the block; Removed the bell housing bolts; Lifted the engine to clear the front mounts and rechecked the transmission support; Slid the engine forward to uncouple the transmission; Lifted the engine, adjusting the tilt with the load leveler to clear the hood as required. Take photos - lots of photos - especially before disconnecting any wiring or hoses. During re-installation, I used a ratcheting tie down strap as a third hoist point to get the correct clockwise rotation. I also left the manifolds off until installed. Removing the engine with the transmission attached will require hood removal. I have no idea how much clearance in front of the vehicle would be required. You can remove the engine-transmission from the front with the car half out of the garage and then push the car back in afterwards because you won't have the transmission hanging.

Well, I've put 500 miles on my overhaul and it's time for the first oil change. Since I've replaced the cam, I thought I'd get religious about adding ZDDP with each oil change. But surprise, surprise when I get to the auto parts store, there was no ZDDP to be had. Then I spied a bottle with a big "ZINC" on the label. When I got home and read the small print on the label, it said, "contains no Zinc or Phosphorous". Wait, the label does say "ZINC REPLACEMENT". On to the web for a MSDS where the only chemical it lists is "proprietary Polymer Ester". It appears clear and has a viscosity similar to glycerin. The label claims it "will provide complete wear protection for flat tappet cam design engines." Does anyone have experience with this product?

I'm curious because I've noticed a small but significant increase in the readings after my overhaul. I'd previously installed a mechanical gauge and found variations under assorted operating conditions that paralleled the OEM gauge. My main and rod bearings were worn down to the copper as expected after 186K miles but the crank journals were not scored and were to size. From my past experience, I estimate I picked up 5-10 psi at 2700 rpm after changing the bearings. Also pressure loss when idling at a long, high speed run is also improved.

You live my Walter Mitty dreams. I have dual downdraft Webers installed by a previous owner and while it drives fine, I yen to return the car back to the original SUs. Strangely, I have no similar desire to re-install the air pump. BTW during my recent overhaul, I pulled the engine without transmission from the passenger side. Before removing I checked the angular orientation to facilitate re-installation. I found the block tilted some 3 degrees and this is why you float level changed when you installed them.

When I added the Vintage Air system, it was powered directly from the + terminal of the battery through a self resetting 30 amp circuit breaker mounted on the fire wall. This gave me a great place to tack on an inline fuse for the headlamps.

The series I 240z's came with a 140 psi gauge and a corresponding sensor (rated 10 bars - or ten times atmospheric pressure) For the series II and later these were reduced to 90 psi and 6 bars respectively. The tech service bulletin instructed to use 10 bar sensors until the supply was exhausted. After exhausted, it instructs to use the 6 bar sensor and to replace the gauge with the 90 psi gauge. Needless to say, very few gauges were replaced. Now with the restorations becoming more common, there are no 10 bar sensors to be found. Considering the sensor was simply modified to use a weaker spring, is it possible that the only difference in the gauges was the 90 painted on the face in lieu of 140? If this was the case, we could simply interpolate readings using a 0-90 scale. Does anyone have both set of gauges to make the comparison?

The common relay used in automotive after markets are not interlocking. When I did my installation, I screwed them to the inner fender under the gas filter. I bought connectors for the headlamps (the ones in front of the radiator mount). I used the original wiring for the headlamps to drive the relays. I tapped +12v from the hot side of my AC circuit and grounded the new circuit to a chassis ground. With the new harness made with connectors, the OEM wiring harness is intact. Thus the upgrade is fully reversible by simply unplugging and re-plugging.

Great write up. A good solution for adapting a modern power antenna. Now if you could just find the elongated tip.

Check out the wiring diagram in this thread. On the right side it says the 12 volt power should be fused before the relay. Also, the power should connect to the normally open contact, not the center pole of the SPDT switch. This ensures voltage will go no farther unless the relay is activated. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48623-relay-question/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Brelay#entry442077

I checked Digikey and found none. I would suggest that if this concerns you, put a SPST relay ahead of your DPDT relay.

The blue Z auction closed at $20,500 this afternoon.

It is over on the east coast.

Hi Gav, First the A in my Vin is for Automatic Transmission. It doesn't appear on the vehicle plates, but does appear in the warranty documentation and plastic ID card. I assume you are referring to the crown on top of the radiator support. My 12/70 Series I doesn't have one and quite frankly, I don't remember ever seeing one on a 240Z. That's not to say that it isn't a supplemental piece added with the dealer installed AC. I'd ask for a photo of that as well. Since this is apparently a second owner, he may not know as well. The illustrated parts book shows a rubber strip being added in 7/72, after this car was produced. Also the crown appears to be sheet metal, not rubber. Makes me suspect it was part of the AC installation. I didn't realize you are in OZ this morning. I would be happy to help you out with a reasonable once over. It would help to know where in Florida it is. I'm in the middle of the state. Florida is 800+KM wide and 800+ KM high, so a round trip can be a bit difficult to do in a single day sometimes. If they are still in Sarasota, that is about a 2 hour drive. Zeibart is an anti corrosion treatment back in the day. It was better than simple undercoating in that they sprayed a waxy coating in the inner chambers. That is why they had to drill holes to get access. Zeibart was a dealer applied product and came at significant cost due to the special wands needed to get in the nooks and crannies. Considering the tendency for early Datsuns to rust, this could be quite an asset. As for restoration, some people want to see the correct head stamps on all the bolts before they will declare it "restored". You are correct about the radiator shroud. Some hoses have been replaced. Let me know how I can help. Dale Warner