djwarner

Phenolitics are thermoset rather than thermoplastic and won't soften with heat. Might I suggest you form a piece of acrylic plastic to shape and mount LEDs with crazy glue feeding the leads to the back. Use silver paste you can get at Radio Shack to ink your own circuit. Failing that, run jumper wires from LED to LED.

Thanks Zed Head and siteunseen, That's is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'm off to Harbor Freight for a set of ramps.

Ok, I finally get around to refreshing my steering gear. Bought the standard TC bushing set from Black Dragon. It appears that the bushings will have a compression preload once they are installed and torqued down. Since the rod is bolted to the transverse link, I am expecting the holes to not line up until the bushings are preloaded. But I've read elsewhere in the forum to not torque them down until the front suspension is under the weight of the car with two 150 lb passengers. The bushing set from Black Dragon comes with 4 rubber bushings 1.029 thick and 2 spacer sleeves 2.013 long. Do I retain all four washers with this set-up? Will the transverse link move easily to accommodate the lack of compression during re-assembly? What else do I have to watch out for? Could someone who has walked this path before give me some step by step instructions? I seek to stay under my weekly cursing limit and could use the help.

The original throttle linkage had a dash pot that limited how fast the throttle would close. The control valve for the dash pot is located on the balance tube above the forward carburetor. Your pictures show the control valve with tubing connecting the inlet to the outlet. Perhaps some of the more experienced users here can do a better job of describing how and when it originally worked. It is not uncommon for the dash pots to be MIA.

The overriders were American dealer add-ons. Mine came with a set. What is not correct is the driver side door strap. Straps only came on the passenger door. I believe a driver's strap would interfere with steering.

from the photos it looks like they extended the front frame rails.

If you read the text, you'll find the wheel base was extended 6". Not the simple bolt-on kit.

One of your side marker lights or turn signal lights may have the ground and power leads reversed causing a short through the light housing to the chassis ground. These wires are often dirty, or painted over hiding their original color. I had this happen after having body work down and the mechanic reversed the leads on re-assembly.

He's not talking about the hatch seals, but the Series I vent grills. There are scuppers inside the hatch that allow cabin air in while directing rain entering the vent grill to be directed to the rear bottom of the hatch. The grills have pins that attach to the scuppers and hold the scuppers against the inside surface of the hatch. Lose the pins or locking devices in the scuppers and you have a path for exhaust fumes and water. He has simply covered the grill holes with the aluminum plates.

Check with the local car parts store to see if they have tools to lend.

Are you relying on the tach to determine idle? My tach is 200 rpm high. I also have an automatic and found that if the idle is set too low you will stall intermittently from a stop. It's a good idea to double check your tach for accuracy.

Having owned a couple of early 510's new and now a Series I Z, I can assure you there was a lot of cross pollination between the two vehicles. This appears to be a nice re-convergence having rear wheel drive, independent rear suspension, and economic design considerations.

MEK has more health issues than the others listed here.

MSDS list VOCs for the 3M Adhesive Cleaner is Ingredient, C.A.S. No., % by Wt HYDROTREATED LIGHT NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM), 64742-49-0, 30% - 60% XYLENE, 1330-20-7, 30% - 60% ETHYLBENZENE, 100-41-4, 7% - 13% TOLUENE, 108-88-3, 0.5% - 1.5% BENZENE, 71-43-2, < 0.1%

Researched the MSDS for contact cement and it listed the major solvent as Toluene (30-60%). Others solvents included Naphtha, which you've tried already, and MEK, which I would avoid. Looks like Toluene would be a good next step.

Since acquiring my 1970 Series I 240Z two years ago, I have driven over 20,000 miles. So I guess it qualifies as a daily driver. Trailer queens are not for me. Part of the gestalt off a car involves going from point A to point B on demand. During this time I have had two extended periods of non-availability, one, to install AC and two, repairs after I was rear-ended. Since I now do most of my maintenance, I have systematically gone through each area of the car renewing their functions. I have had jobs that take the car down overnight, mostly due to needing to replace additional components once I've started a task. Fortunately, I have my wife's car as a back-up in these situations. One such example was needing new O-rings for the end caps when replacing bearings in the differential. And after 44 years of questionable maintenance, I have to say I've had to fix at least one shoddy repair for each case of truly worn out component. The major difference between repairing a Datsun versus an old Ford, Chevy, etc is that almost any part takes a day or longer to get. So if you don't have a back up vehicle, you are apt to find yourself walking from time to time. However, on the good side, my Z has never left me stranded.

One other point about dash caps. Since they sit on top of the old surface, they reduce the diameter of the instrument holes. This can make removal of the speedometer or tachometer problematic. This is often discovered years after the cap is installed.

Zfever in Tampa offers a refurbishment for under $900. I have no first hand experience with their process, but I have met the owner and they have an established business.

Diseazd, Could we have a follow-up. What did you find?

The rubber termites strike again! Glad to hear you are getting back on the road.

Try Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor or Digikey

My son was working on his M3 the other day and found he couldn't get his spring compressors in the space allowed in the strut tower. This is similar to the problems in our Z's. He found a work around that may also work for our Z's. He bought 36" pull ties at the local Home Depot and found them rated at 175lbs. Jacked the axle up to compress the springs and installed 10 pull ties between the uppermost and lowermost coils. And as in the nursery rhyme, "there he kept them very well." If you are simply changing the strut, you are good to go. If you need to remove the springs, install a conventional spring compressor after you clear the strut tower and fender. Pull ties can be cut away with a diagonal cutter. Reverse the procedure to re-install. I would suggest using a minimum of pull ties to double (3x is better) the compressed spring load. So for our 2400lb cars that works out to about 600lbs per corner. My son's setup worked out to 2.5 times on his heavier car. Also verify each tie is pulled tight enough to carry its share. Just had a follow up discussion with my son. He actually composed the spring to near its maximum rather than to just the normal ride height. This drastically reduced the safety margin I quoted above. Buyer beware.

Just how are you measuring your timing? Static timing or with a timing light? And do you still have a stock distributor/ignition? And what rpm? Is the vacuum advance disconnected? If you have a vacuum gage, you might try adjusting timing for maximum idle vacuum.

The oil pressure sender is constructed so that until you reach 6-8 psi the terminal is open. Once pressure reaches the magic number, resistance drops to 60 ohms. As pressure increases, resistance drops down to about 15-20 ohms at 90 psi. Remember the oil pump is a constant displacement pump and only generates whatever pressure necessary to push out it design volume each revolution. The bearing in our engine relies on a flow of oil to prevent metal to metal contact - flow, not pressure. Coming to an idle stop after a high temperature run has oil very thin and runny. It takes very little pressure to push the oil out. As the pressure drops below the 6-8 psi range, the sender opens and the gauge goes below zero to the peg. This phenomena has existed in our cars since they were new. After 44 years, I guess this is properly classified as normal operation. As for your temperature spike, you don't say whether you are running AC which would aggravate the situation. Another cause may be your thermostatic fan clutch allowing the fan to freewheel. Consult the FSM to understand the theory of operation. Hint for boosting octane to control pinging. Try adding about 5 ounces of acetone to a full tank. This will boost your octane rating 3-4 points. If it solves the problem, you know where to look. Though run-on is normally caused by carbon accumulation which can be caused by an overly retarded spark.