djwarner

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-280Z-Nissan-S30-280Z-First-Series-Body-Style-2-owner-49-964-miles-Pac-NW-Z-Rare-/190752260987#v4-40

A few kits were sold before Ferrari got wind of it and shut them down for copyright infringement. Ferrari protects its image about as diligently as Disney. I believe there are 3 still running around.

For all the good work Julio did on his VintageAir Mini, the fresh air hook-up was all for naught. The fan used is a centrifugal fan, that is it throws air from the center to the outside. Julio tapped into the discharge air channel, not the intake side of the fan. As a result, when he opens the fresh air vent, he pumps interior air back out through the vent. I've been working on a vent that couples to the intake on the top. Quite honestly, for all the engineering and trouble, if I were doing it again, maybe I'd just use Julio's control vent and just admit fresh air when desired. My design moves up and down in the vent channel. When raised, a flapper closes inside the vent and air is drawn between the control and the top of the fan. When lowered, the flapper is opened and the control body rests on top of the fan inlet. What no one has mentioned is how the control head is mounted in the center console when fresh air control is retained.

I'm in the middle of installing a VintageAir system. There is an error in their catalog showing the dimensions on their Gen II Compac system. The evaporator/heater box is listed as 9" high, in actuality it is something like 11" and doesn't fit inplace of the OEM heater box. On the other hand, their next smaller unit, the Gen II Mini slips right in with plenty of room. Any aftermarket unit is not designed to pull outside air like the vent system in the OEM heater. In other words, it only recirculates interior air. Of course we have the side air vent that dump fresh air in under the dash, but the air coming from the dash vents comes from the heater system. Using a VintageAir system will still force air through these vents, but it comes from the floor area, not the outside. BTW the original add-on pull through systems also only used recirculated air as well. But retained the fresh air vent when not using AC.

IMHO, this is problematic for our engines that were designed to have more blowby than modern engines. On the plus side synthetics have more detergent, less ash, tend to be more uniform in chemical composition and so resist breakdown and sludging. On the negative side is cost and the circulation of suspended combustion products in higher concentrations as we extend change intervals. If you change oil yourself, changing oil every 3K and filter every 6K, your engine will be quite happy and you will end up saving substantial money over synthetics. If you really want to dote on your ride, and don't mind the cost of synthetic, there are oil analysis services that will track the wear of the oil and various metal components from the engine that will tell you when to change the oil more accurately than a mechanic. Many owners of small aircraft, where engine overhauls can run north of $20,000, use there services routinely. You might even get 25,000 miles between oil changes. Today's standard oils are much higher quality than those produced when our cars were new. However, the combustion products bypassing the rings are still the same. Datsun says a $5 oil filter should last 6K, while my wife's new Infiniti G25 says the $12 filter should be changed every 7.5K under ideal driving conditions.

Good start, May I suggest you verify the chasis has a good connection to the negative terminal of the battery.

Just a newbie reading this for the first time. From your story everything was fine until the welder worked on it. How did he repair what in the fuel line? Sounds like you have at least two problems - no fuel flow and no spark. I assume that you have followed the suggestions above and verifed the electric pump is actually running. Both the pump and ignition are electrically driven - could there be a common problem? Either power - or chassis ground? The welder was doing some major welding and could have introduced a ground problem.

PM Sent

I know someone in Tampa who has several cars for sale from a 240Z Series I Automatic to 300Z's. I'll check with him tomorrow to see what he would recommend.

Thanks, so he's looking for a dependable driver - or better?

Florida is 500 miles wide and 500 miles tall. Can you be a bit more specific?

There is a stud welded to the inboard side of the well about 2-3" down. A strap connects the bottom of the antenna to this stud. The strap was held in place with a wingnut. I have no idea where you would find a replacement wingnut.

According to http: //datsunzgarage.com/engine/ triple Webers run better when you do not use the vaccum advance. This is probably why yours was not connected.

Here is an English translationof your second link: http://auto.sina.com.cn On October 30, 2012 06:56 SINA auto Kevin LeeFont size: large small Nissan 370Z successor Senior Nissan recently revealed to European media,370Z(Configuration Gallery Of mouth Forum)Achieving generational change in 2016, the new Z sports cars will become more agile and efficient, and for the first time using a four-cylinder engine . New generation of Nissan's z sports cars will use inline four-cylinder engine for the first time, in order to obtain excellent fuel consumption and emissions . In order to ensure performance gains, new car body than the cash into smaller, more dexterous. Nissan Vice President(Configuration Gallery Of mouth Forum)Andy-Palmer (Andy Palmer) disclosed to the media in Europe: "we'll always produce z sports car, but the next generation will be more economical and environmentally friendly, so you need to use four-cylinder engine. ” Nissan 370Z's successor Since its 1969 introduced the 240Z, Nissan z-series Coupe already has a history of more than 40 years, but has always insisted on using six-cylinder engine, next-generation z series switching to four-cylinder engines will be an important turning point. Even so, Nissan car fans do not have to worry about since the introduction of four-cylinder engines, Palmer said: "we will be preparing six-cylinder engine for the next-generation z-car, but will be very limited. ” You can borrow using a four-cylinder engine of the z sports car Turbo system brings exciting performance and, more importantly, is a four-cylinder engine of the economy will be much better than using the V6 engine of the 370Z. Cash 370Z sales stagnated, largely is subject to high oil prices . Next-generation z sports car from Renault(Configuration Gallery Of mouth)-Nissan Alliance's dynamic selection of four-cylinder engines in the library. For Juke(Configuration Gallery Of mouth)1.6-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine can be adjusted to more than 200 BHP horsepower, Megane(Configuration Gallery Of mouth Forum)Renaultsport 265 2-liter turbocharged engine is also a good choice. But for the z sports car, equipped with a new dynamic seems more likely, might even benefit from the Renault -Nissan Alliance and Daimler group cooperation schemes. Which was held not long ago in the Paris International Auto show, executives said, is developing a range of turbocharged petrol engines, the first engine in 2016 and is equipped with a new car, but this time coincided with the time to market for next-generation z-car line. New cars will be equipped with high performance automatic transmission was developed in cooperation with Daimler's results. A four-cylinder engine for the first time the z sports car, is expected to name it appears to adjust. Nissan z sports car to date engine displacement to name your new car, but is unlikely to do the supercharged engine displacement as the new name of the law. Nissan Renault schemes may be used, horsepower was named based on the data, or use classic cars 240Z name. Message produced the collection two imaginary map shows us the new generation z-level designs. Rich sense of muscular fender, smooth motion of Coupe -style roof, front part of the aggressive, short rear overhang will be a new car design elements are used. Body will increase the use of lightweight materials, such as aluminum and high strength steels for lighter, so as to achieve greater efficiency. At the same time, curb weight reduction also means handling acuity enhancement. In addition to the Standard Edition, Nissan Nismo performance to be introduced for the new generation of z sports car version. Nismo means dynamic growth and suspension system improvement, and high-performance limited-slip differential . Just as Toyota GT 86, next-generation z car will also be a car can fall at any time drift racing. (Kevin Lee)

The firing order is the same 153624 for both the manual and automatic. BTW I also have a 71 automatic manufactured in DEC '70.

When I bought my Series I with automatic, it had a bad clunk when shifting into reverse and when going back into drive. The PO thought it was a bad universal joint but it turned out to be a bad differential front mount. Overtime the rubber separates from the mount hardware but is held inplace by weight. Two other things to inspect is loose nuts at the Ujoints and the amount of backlash in the differential. Jumping out of gear may very well be separate adjustment problem or it may hint at rear transmission mount bracket problem.

Ok I was able to confirm my original theory: Red +12 Volts Black = ground Blue = Antenna control (+12 volts when radio is on) Gray = Left speaker + Green = Right speaker + Speakers - return to ground Unit actually sounded pretty good for 35 years old.

Hi Jerry, There was a supplemental service manual for the 71 Z that went into quite some detail about the dash, heating, and electrical. I don't know how much of the info actually got into the later service manuals but I find it refreshingly complete and detailed. you can get it at http://www.xenons30.com/files/1971%20FSM%20Supplement.pdf BTW my dash, wiring harness, heater, and fuse box are spread out on my garage floor at the moment as I install a VintageAir AC. While out, I have been diligently tracing every circuit - ie finding the foglight switch connects, etc. If you have a specific problem that's been dogging you, I can be a sounding board. My harness is about 99% original.

Ok I have the unit I pulled out. The motor pulls but the spool is frozen. Had to cut off the antenna tubing and nylon rope to get it off. The drain clogged at some time and the grease was contaminated with water. You can have the motor is that's the problem. And yes, you need to ground the body to run it outside of the car. BTW the strap on the bottom of the antenna is attached with a wingnut on the bottom. Much easier to remove the wing nut than the screw on the antnena body.

Are you looking for an OEM equivalent or a functional power antenna for a modern radio? Good luck trying to find one that works with you up/down switch. If you have a modern radio with an integral antenna signal lead, it is easy to convert the existing wiring to work with a modern unit. Just did mine this week. The wires running back to the power antenna are Blue/red stripe and Blue/white stripe. The plain blue wire connected to the switch is the +12V coming from the accessory position on the ignition switch. Pushing the switch ports +12v to one of the striped leads running back to the antenna motor. Voltage runs through the electric motor and returns via the chasis ground. In the modern power antenna, the chasis ground remains but there is a relay that controls the up/down motion. It has two input leads, red and blue. The red lead is hard wired to +12volts, and the blue lead is tied to the antenna control signal on your modern radio. When the radio is turned on, +12v is sent to the blue lead energizing the relay on the antenna. This commands the antenna to extend. When the radio is turned off via the knob and/or when the ignition is turned off, the +12v is removed, the relay de-engerizes and the motor is commanded to retract the antenna. The power to drive the antenna moter - up or down - comes from the red lead. The blue lead only activated the relay. So what I did was to connect the red lead to the Blue/Red striped lead and the Blue lead to the Blue/white striped lead at the antenna. Under the dash, disconnect the switch and connect the leads as described above. The blue/red lead can be connected in one of two ways. If you jumper it to the blue lead on the plug, it will be powered through the accessory position on the ignition switch. This will only allow the antenna to retract by manually turning off the radio. In this configuration the antenna will remain extended when the radio is on and you turn off the engine with the key. The other way to power it is to tap into the green/red stripe lead running to the horn relay. This provides +12v to the antenna at all times. In this configuration, the antenna will automatically retract when you turn off the ignition regardless if the radio is left on.

I've found the clear plastic remains of a sticker 85mm wide by 30mm high stuck to the inside of the driver's rear quarter window. I though it was the OK sticker, but Carl Beck convinced me that was on the passenger side. If the remains of the sticker are nonOEM, I'll remove it. Otherwise I'll let it stay until I can get a Repro.

Strange, but I just refilled the 175 HR-14 spare in my '71 240z yesterday. I realized it was 41 years old and certainly subject to dry rot. Was surprized it actually held pressure. So I'm in the same boat as you looking for a replacement. So I just took a straight edge and laid it across the flats where the fiberboard cover sits. Yes, we have a problem as there is less than 1/4" clearance. A 195 tire is by definition 2 cm (0.800") wider than the 175 sitting in the well. Later models used a compact spare that inflated with a CO2 cartridge when needed. But the cartridges are now harder to find the a 175/75-14. If you are looking for a get you home spare tire, tirerack.com shows several 175/70 R14 tires. These will certainly fit within the well.

Just a quick update. The '70 and '71 oil pressure gauges are 0-140 psig. The '72 service manual shows a picture with the 90 psig gauge but the associated text still refers to 140 psig. While in the service manual I found the idle speed was 750 rpm and oil pressure was supposed to be 14.2 - 17.1 psig. The only other specification was for the pressure relief valve that limits the high oil pressure to 54.0 - 59.7 psig. That being said, my oil pressure gauge is probably fairly accurate.

Thanks for the link. It has useful information.