TheCrazySwede

Thanks a lot CO. Always appreciate your help and input. I followed Atlantic Z's post and it was all really clear (he even has wiring diagrams on his website) but I was just confused as of why the wires needed to be cut and soldered vs. jumping them the way I did. Seems to be working just fine! Thanks bud! I have all of you to thank for my process. My pics aren't the DSLR quality stuff your posts possess, but it'll do Thanks again!

Not sure if I ever shared this, but this was how the stock EFI L28 sounded. The exhaust I have on for this new motor is a temporary magnaflow. Way too aggressive for my taste, to be honest. When it comes to these sports cars, I prefer the purr over the growl. Just my preference.

Alright gentlemen, this what I've managed to get done today. Old vs New I still don't see the need for cutting the wiring harness to compensate for the new alt w/ its internal regulator. I jumped the wires like this, instead. No harm done to the harness, if I ever need to go back. I disconnected the brake check relay. If the E-Brake is on, then the light is displayed on the "ON" position. If the E-Brake is off, then it doesn't. Otherwise works as normal. Had to adjust my idle speed just a tad because with the headlights on, the car idles really rough (around 700-800RPM) and takes strange dives. With lights off, it idles at 1050-1100. My guess is that the wonderful bulbs they used back in the 70's probably weren't too keen on sharing and hog a lot of juice. Anyone experience anything different with different bulbs? By the way, just wanted to throw another "Thank You" for all you who are helping me out with this build. I am extremely grateful.

I'll double check the colours when I can. It's raining pretty hard today, so it'll have to wait. The brake check relay has been making an awful whining noise since the motor swap and I've also been getting strange voltage readings (my charge light also flickered, depending on RPM) I eventually disconnected the brake check relay. Is there any harm in just keeping it disconnected?

Gotcha - I'll be sure to follow it! I was just confused about which wire goes where, because my colors were different. But I am a Computer Tech, so these sort of stuff shouldn't be difficult for me to figure out - as opposed to the mechanical stuff. If I'm right, looking at my old alternator, there's a N and a F connector (is then replaced by the S and the L) One of the wires (I believe there are six, but I'd have to double check) should have battery voltage even without the car on. I believe this is the wire that connects to what would be the N wire (replaced by the S on the new one)

So, I had some exciting interactions with my alternator the other day... The "incident" has since been mended, but I've been getting funny voltage readings. Any amount of throttle propels the voltage gauge past 16v. The relay under the passenger seat for the "E-Brake" made an annoying whining sound, so I disconnected it for the time being. These issues are not a result of the "mending," but rather have been present since the engine swap. I picked one of those Hitachi 60AMP alts. with an internal regulator. The connection look pretty much identical (from what I understand, the "P" doesn't hook up to anything.) As far as the hook up goes - do I need to do anything past hooking up all the wires? Do I just eliminate the external regulator by disconnecting it entirely? Most of the write ups I've seen are for upgrading a 240Z alternator to one of these, but the only one for the 280Z I've seen (by Atlantic Z) requires soldering some wires. I have a '77, so it's the same year as his write-up. I just don't see why that's needed if the external regulator is getting eliminated entirely anyway. Anyone got any ideas? Can I just unplug the external regulator and cap it off? I've read some people have trouble with the engine not turning off when turning off the key - but again, only seen this with 240Z upgrades. Any help is greatly appreciated!

My engine's builder is always in and out of Japan - seeing as how he was born there and is close with the Z community - and said he can get whatever parts I need. Also, doesn't hurt to buy some rebuild kits/spare parts while they're easily available, if the day ever comes. What are you running on your Z now? Thanks!

I probably misunderstood him. Thanks for sharing! You don't happen to have any videos of your Z running with those carbs, do you? Would love to hear it!

On an unrelated note, here's the new Abarth Exhaust! Had the inlet modified to pack some more beef.

Spent some more Juan-On-Juan time with the Carbs, with the help of a local carb shop. Turns out 5/6 of the Accelerator pumps were in bad condition. Yikes! I had measured the float height and adjusted them accordingly. Car actually runs much, much nicer now, but doesn't like anything past smooth throttle. Now I know why. These carbs aren't mine. I'm just the temporary custodian of them. A friend of mine owns them, hence their wonderful condition. I wanted to buy my own carbs, but I'm really interested in the OER/SK Japanese ones. My engine's builder, Eiji Hosomi, spent a good 15-20min with me over the phone explaining some of the reasons why he absolutely dislikes Weber Carbs - and he made some great points. The Japanese carbs don't seem to work much differently, and when they do it's for the better. No emulsion tubes to deal with, the mixture of the accelerator is adjustable externally and so are the floats. Sounds a lot more practical to me... Anyone have any experience with these? I'm seriously considering picking up a set to keep the engine "Japanese" entirely.

I actually got past the transition issue by messing around with the timing and idle mixture. But I do have an issue where the carbs don't like anything above 40% throttle. If I'm smooth with it, it'll rev nice, but if I cave my foot into it a little, it starts to sputter.

We might be a rare breed, but this is a challenge I accept with open arms. Tuning the Webers has been the most fun part of this entire engine build so far. There's a short video written by previous BBC Top Gear host, Jeremy Clarkson, about being petrolheads (gearheads) and how we are a dying breed. It was made as a PR video for a racing sim, but it's amazing and it still gives me chills. Explains perfectly why we all go through hell to get our beautiful machines to run. Here it is, if anyone is interested:

Thanks for the advice Chickenman! I went for 34's due to the specs of the engine and because I'm trying out 145 mains. After playing around with the idle and the timing, the car runs much smoother, but bogs when anything over 30-40% throttle is applied. The float height is the only thing I haven't checked because I haven't had the time. I've removed the emulsion tubes and I noticed that the fuel line is a bit above where most people recommend, so I figured the floats need to be adjusted. Once I've got the floats settled and the carbs tuned steady again, I'll see how the 34's run. I live about 30min away from a Weber Carb shop, so I can always go down and pickup different sized chokes if needed. Thanks again for the input everyone! Tuning these carbs have proven to be far more fun than I originally presumed - or maybe it's because I haven't pulled all the hair out of my skull yet

Got the car to idle well and runs pretty smooth, but still has a few hiccups. Runs a bit rough between the idle jet/main jet RPM hand-off. I've been suggested to check the float height, but have been busy with work. I'll check it when I can!

I'm far from an experienced Weber tuner, but that's the main purpose of this post - I share everything as I'm learning. That way I can forward the information to others in a way that is easy to understand, rather than being so "pro" at it that you get too 'technical.' If I don't understand it - then I won't post it until I do. Most of the information I'm sharing comes from a ton of reading and from friends who know way more than I do and have been gracious enough to share their knowledge. I'm just sharing the love! Eventually, I want to extract all the important parts from the manuals/guides and re-write them in an easy-2-follow way for beginners to comprehend and avoid making things too complicated. It'll take time, which is why this post is a WIP. Thanks again for your kind words, Cliff! I'll be sure to update this post as I gather more information

Hey SiteUnseen! Your post is what inspired me to make a one-stop-shop for Weber newcomers. Figured the task of tackling Webers is daunting enough, so I hope I can help out others brave enough to journey deep into the rabbit hole - the insane obsession that is tuning DCOE Carbs I'll keep adding to it as time goes by

Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know who you are! If there's anything I need to clarify or add, let me know. Table of Contents I. Documentation II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories III. Prologue IV. Choke/Venturi V. Main Jets, Emulsion Tubes, Air Correctors & Idle Jets VI. TBD I. Documentation DCOE Weber Carburetor Top-View Layout Weber Factory Tuning Manual - Download Link Power Tuning Webers (Des Hammil/Veloce Publishing) - Download Link Selection and Tuning of DCOE Weber Carbs (David Andrews ) - Download Link Weber DCOE Tuning Manual (Philippe Boursin) - Download Link II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories http://www.redlineweber.com/ http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm III. Prologue - The First Date First and foremost, it is essential that you know what you're working with. Setup a date with your newly acquired friends and spend a romantic evening just getting to know each other - perhaps light some candles and pour some wine while you're at it. In order to tune them properly, you need to know what sort of equipment your carbs are packing. IV. Choke/Venturi - Step One - Removal Let's start off by determining the size of the chokes/venturis. (If carbs don't have filters on them, skip to Step 1D) If the carbs are already out, the easiest way is to shine some light down the carb and see if you spot the engraved number. If you can't see the number or if you want to replace the chokes, then follow these steps. 1A - Unscrew the airbox/filter (If applicable) 1B - Underneath there are four (8mm) bolts holding in the housing. I already took off one of the studs. 1C - Remove Gasket (If applicable) 1D - Unscrew the this little fella (11mm) sitting on the bottom corner of each side of the carburetor. This holds the auxiliary venturi in place. 1E - Once the screw is removed, the aux. venturi should slip right out. 1F - Make a note of the little indent where the screw holds the aux. venturi in place. You're gonna have to put it back the same way for it to seat properly 1G - You should be able to see the chokes now, but we're gonna replace the 28's with a different size. 1H - Unscrew this fella (I used a flathead) to allow the choke to slide out. 1I - If you're having some trouble getting the choke/venturi out, then open the butterflies and push it out from the opposite side. It'll otherwise slide out IV. Choke/Venturi - Step Two - Assembly Alright, so now we have removed the choke - it's time to replace them! Here's the old 28 next to the new 34 that is going in. 2A - See these notches? You want to make sure that they line up properly in the carb. Looking at the carb from the front, the left choke lines up at 12 & 3, while the right choke lines up at 12 & 9 (Left choke lined up at 12 & 3) 2B - Re-insert the screw and make sure it sits firm. I had some trouble getting the right angle on some of them, so just make sure it's lined up properly. 2C - The aux. venturi should slide right in. Remember that little indent from before? Make sure it lines up properly with where the screw goes. 2D - Screw the little guy (11mm) back in and double check to make sure the aux. venturi is seated properly 2E - Do one final inspection to make sure everything is sitting right and then continue to put your gasket and filter back on. Personally, I went with these stacks. They slide right in and uses little clips that slide into the studs to hold them in. V. Main Jets, Air Correctors, Emulsion Tubes & Idle Jets WIP - Work in Progress

A. What the Carbs came with / B. What I'm trying out 40DCOE Weber Carburetors A. Choke: 28 / Mains: 115 / Air: 170 / Emulsion: F11 / Idle: 45F9 B. Choke: 34 / Mains: 145 / Air: 175 / Emulsion: F11 / Idle: 55F9 I also got new gaskets for the carbs, some air horns and those mesh lookin' air filters.

Got it to idle on its own and it's able to drive, but it's running lean. After inspecting the main jets, they seem to be way too small for what I'm dealing with (1.15mm) so that might be the reason why. Zedyone_Kenobi has been helping out a lot - I couldn't do all this without you all, so before I forget or get delusional from all the gasoline - Thank You all for your help! Main Jets: 115 Emulsion Tube: F11 Air Correctors: Couldn't find the # Idle Jets: Haven't checked

That's super helpful - Thanks siteunseen! That's just the sort of instruction I need!

Thanks Zed Head - Every little bit helps! It's all just a bit intimidating, but I really want to learn!

Ok, so the motor is running and idling. Because I am not mechanically savvy, I'm sort of being tossed into the deep end right off the bat with these Triple Webers. Zedyone_Kenobi has been kind enough to guide me through the process of making sure these guys are set up properly, so bare with me as I fumble my way through this! I have the manuals (Haynes + the factory manual) and I've read up on tuning them on forums and such - but a lot of the guides assume you have a single clue about the subject at hand. I do not, so it's a bit tricky to grasp all the terms and the concepts of different variables and their respective consequences. Wish there was a "Tuning Triple DCOE Webers for Dummies"

Working on it! I'll post a video of it once it's running

The stock EFI Engine: Engine out of the car: New Engine out of the Car: New Engine in the Car (Pardon the mess from the oily hands!):

So far, this is the only pic I've taken. Been busy with work and school. I'll undress her later and take some pictures for you guys