RyanT67

The BHJ damper is MUCH cheaper if bought through Rebello. I realise this seems counter-intuitive, but I think BHJ very much prefers for people to buy through their resellers, so they jack up the prices when selling directly. I believe Rebello sells that damper for something in the region of $375. Nice piece!

I'll drop my car off to you on Friday. I have some rust bubbles on the rear hatch deck, and could use a small patch in the driver's foot well. I'd hate to see you having any free time to relax, Chris All kidding aside, I really can't wait to see how the car looks when you get it back!!

Even a broken clock is right twice a day I had a budget stroker build in my Z when I bought it, pretty similar to yours, except with triple Mikuni carbs. What it lacked in absolute horsepower output, it made up for in fun with it's wide torque band. Great engine for the street!

When selling a used engine do you typically charge what it cost to build it?

That much money with only mild port work? I don't see it. With those carbs, that camshaft, so little headwork, and a so-so exhaust, I can't see the engine putting out much more than 200hp. There is value in the short block due to the large bore and v07 crank, but with cheap ITM cast pistons, it's not exactly a Rebello block. If selling used, I'd think it would go for maybe $3k. If it was fully ported, forged pistons, triple Mikuni carbs, a proper performance header, and a dyno sheet showing what it puts out, then $6k, maybe a little more. All of this said, at $12,000 it's a very nice, and solid, looking car at a great price. Should sell quickly!

Thanks! And WOW, that is VERY reasonable!!

Any ballpark figures* on what shipping is like with the Zstory system to North America? Header alone and header with exhaust system? * estimation on cost

Very nice piece of kit, but the dual exhaust pipe run doesn't add anything except excess weight. A properly sized single run seems much more sensible. I question whether that header would clear the LHD steering rack.

HS30-H, you're like the Gregory House of Z car forums. What you lack in bedside manner, you more than make up for in expertise, haha. Thanks for the information dump

Jenvey (or Fox Injection in the USA) sells 40mm tall air horns at a very reasonable price. Those, coupled with an ITG Megaflow JC100/65 air filter, would be a good combo IMO. You would get a top quality air filter, maximum breathing, an appropriate length of air horn, and enough clearance over the mouth of the horn to not impede air flow. Total cost would probably be around $200 for the air horns, and $300 for the air filter and base plate. Not inexpensive, but a good uncompromised solution.

I've never seen them used, but I'm also dubious of the benefits. A decent heat shield keeps most of the heat off of the carb bodies, and the cooling bodies would only be effective if you were running a return line, which most triple carb folks don't bother with.

Thanks for sharing! I also run the MSA short shifter kit, and find myself stretching to reach for it sometimes. This seems like a pretty easy solution, will be giving it a try soon.

I'd be interested in a zinc or cadmium plated kit, and imagine many others would be too. Stainless is nice and all, but doesn't it interact with some other metals in an undesirable way, and have less tensile strength than regular steel?

Wow, just wow... This car is really going to be something special!

Nice work!!

What size are the primaries?

The exhaust set up looks a little similar to what I run, albeit with two thicker resonators vs my single thin 18" one. My muffler is a perforated core one too, 3" in/2x2.5 out. With the windows up, it's actually reasonably quiet inside the car, although I do have new weather stripping and lots of sound deadener. It is very loud outside the car. I suspect the two thicker resonators will help a little more to keep things a little quieter than mine. I do get pretty much no drone on the highway though, which is nice.

Ah, gotcha. I run the stock seats and keep my battery behind the passenger seat - it's a tight squeeze to lift it out of there since the seats only slide so far forward and the back rest has minimal adjustment. I could be wrong, but I think it would be near impossible to get it out if I had it in a recessed box like yours. Not bashing, just challenging the practicality of the modification given my own experiences. I'd suggest throwing the passenger seat back in and giving it a quick check. Better to find out now than later

So if your battery fully dies, you will now have to remove your passenger seat to get it out of there, right? Is that a regular acid filled battery? If you are doing all of this nice work, you really might as well spend the extra couple hundred bucks for an AGM battery that won't leak.