ninjazombiemaster

If its chrome plated, perhaps. If its polished aluminum I'd probably stick to traditional polishing.. I bought the buff and polish kit from MSA for my wheels and my valve cover.

Very clean. Makes me want to have mine detailed! Not 'til spring though...

Hey Guys, This winter has led to what is hopefully only minor rust on my bumpers, and I've been searching for an effective way to remove the rust and clean the bumper without scratching the chrome or steel and think I may have stumbled across something helpful. I searched to see if this method was on the site anywhere but didn't see anything so I figured I'd share. I'll be testing and posting results tomorrow afternoon, most likely. Cleaning Chrome All you will need aluminum foil and water. I've heard cola works as well, and I may try both. "A common way to clean a rusted chrome surface such as a fender is to use a fine steel wool. However, when you use this method you have to use a lot of elbow grease and you still end up with a slightly dull surface with some amount of scratching not to mention the messy 'dust' left over from the steel wool. That's because you are physically scraping off the rust. When you use the aluminum foil method you are dissolving the rust chemically so you don't need to rub nearly as hard and since the aluminum foil is softer than the chrome, you are left with few if any scratches. This method also allows you to get the rust out of some minor pitting without having to dig into the surface. The aluminum oxide that is created by friction when you rub the surface of the chrome leeches the rust away and when combined with the water you added creates it's own polishing compound so you end up with a clean, smooth, shiny surface." In case the link ever breaks: Step 1 Cut the aluminum foil into small squares. 3" by 3" should do. Step 2 Wipe down or wash the surface to remove any surface dirt. Step 3 Dip a square into some water or sprinkle some water on it and spread it around on the surface of the foil. Step 4 Cup the wet square over the surface you want to clean so you get a nice even coverage. Step 5 Start rubbing a 6 or 8 inch area and remember you don't have to rub very hard. As you rub, you'll feel the surface get smoother and smoother until the foil just glides over it. You will also notice a light brown paste building up. This is the polish that results from the chemical reaction. Step 6 When the surface is nice and smooth and you have polished it, take a clean cloth and wipe the polish off. Step 7 Once you finish cleaning and polishing the item you need to cover the surface to protect it from the elements. At a minimum you can wipe it down thoroughly with a clean cloth. Since cloth inherently contains some amount of oil, this will give you at least some protection. The best method would be to use a small amount of chrome polish or maybe something like turtle wax or an equivalent kind of wax or polish. Make sure you wipe the surface down with a paper towel first instead of a cloth because paper doesn't contain any oil so you will have a clean and dry surface for the wax or polish to adhere to.

Yeah. The technology isnt ready, but its close. But I agree, the l24 serves me well enough. Hahahaha. Until my motor meets its doom, I dont plan on swapping it. Never driven an electric car, but im sure they sound weak. (I did drive a prius once though and it supports my theory). 110,000 miles (at least) and still kicking. Albeit leaking occasional fluid.

Haha, we'll so our best! I'm considering being buried in mine The 370z will be a vintage Japanese sports car! Gas here has come down a bit, but still pretty high. Tesla makes an all electric roadster that keeps up with a Corvette and goes a few hundred miles on a charge - not too shabby looking, either. Perhaps one day we'll see electric conversions on Zs, too. I just hate to think how much harder it'll be to get parts then. Best get stocking up now, and hope MSA sticks around!

Since my retrosound stopped working, I've had a lot more time to think while driving. Today, that led to a little thought I wanted to share with you folks. This year, my Z turned 40 - which is a kind of mind blowing number for me, being only 19 myself. When I'm the age of some of our older members - it'll be an astonishing 80 years old and if I'm lucky - still on the road. Here's to our cars perhaps seeing their 100th birthdays, someday? Boy, thats a long time.

Yeah, probably not something I could fix with a pair of clippers and screwdriver in my work's parking lot like this was. Haha I'm sure most of my hoses could benefit from being replaced. Or really just an overhaul in general. But that's not gonna happen until I get myself another daily driver and some work space.

Thank you, that's what I was looking for. Fortunately, being below freezing I keep my heater on always. So I think it should be good. Thanks for the help.

I know that bit, and it seems to be doing fine now. I tested it under load and it actually ran cooler, from the cold winter air moving, I presume. Let me rephrase my question. The break was on the heater core hose, and that's where all the coolant was lost. Is refilling the radiator and burping the system the appropriate way to replenish coolant for the entire cooling system - or since they're independent and the break was to the core is there a step I have to take to make sure that portion of the system is good as well? Perhaps I'm over-thinking it, the car is running at normal temps so far. On a side note.. are there any advantages to the original braided hosing? When I get the chance to replace it, should I get another braided one or, are modern rubber makes a better choice?

How do I make sure that theres sufficient coolant in both systems then? I added a gallon more in addation the the quart from last night, amd it seems to be maintaining much beyter temps. Ive been running it without load and the needle is sitting center and doesnt appear to be rising.

Im not sure I understand your second point, steve. Am I not supposed to burp the system if its the heater core hose? Its in the long pre bent heater hose that goes through the firewall. The break was in the fist inch of hose, so I was able to cut out the break and reattach it. Saving it for now. Youre correct. It is indeed the original braided hosing. Not the first bit thats been giving me trouble, either. Thats what 40 year old hoses get ya'...

I was able to shorten the hose and bypass the break, but on the drive home it reached 250 degrees so I'm guessing I'll be needing *even* more coolant.

Forgive the photo, but on my way back to work from my lunch, I was horrified to see "smoke" coming from the engine as I was about to park. I was somewhat relieved to see that it was only steam from the hot fluid in the cold air. There's a small cut in the hose (not easy to see in the pic, but its there), just left of the dipstick that was the culprit. Could you guys confirm that this is standard heater hose, and of what size? If I'm lucky, the hose will have enough slack I can cut it shorter and reattach it for now, put some new coolant in and maybe have her running to get home tonight.

Just throwing this out there, too. The repro glove boxes from MSA are sub par in quality. They folks that make them staple it very sloppily, so there are gaps in the box liner. I called MSA, and though they were willing to exchange and select the best one, they said that they were all like that, so I didn't bother. You might try taking the cardboard one and using it as a base/mount. Lining it with plastic or vinyl on your own. And maybe using some sort of metal frame on the outside.

I'll give that a try and see what happens. When I watch it move, my choke seems to work right, but I'm not so sure its working properly from my cars behavior when its pulled. Sometimes its as expected, others, it actually drops the RPMs. But that's an issue of its own.

Thank you. I mixed some 10-40 with it and it seems to do it for now. I still have a hard time starting, and poor behavior when cold - but I'm not really sure what is normal performance in below freezing weather. Most notably, it seems to be running out of power at certain speeds in each gear, eg. In 2nd gear, it totally loses power at 50 MPH. You can hear a sputtering, that sounds like fuel but its hard to say with such a noisy ride (but if I had to compare it to something, it felt like it ran out of gas.. perhaps the floats are indeed set so the bowl depletes too quickly? Its got an electric fuel pump that seems to work splendid.). Then, switching to 3rd, it'll go strong until 90 MPH then sputter. And I don't mean it just hits the end of its power curve. More like it reaches an RPM and then loses something, like not enough fuel or not a hot enough spark. Vacuum advance seems to be working still.

I checked so many times!!! I can't believe I missed it. Haha, me too on all counts.

Interesting day. I rechecked everything, and found out that dispite having checked it a dozen times, the problem was indeed spark plug cable 2 & 3 were switched. Runs like a bat out of hell now. Also, the freezing rain ruined my clear coat. A buddy of mine will give her a full body repaint for around $1500. Super bummed about that, but it needed a touch up anyway. Hydroplaned and spun out on the test drive. All in all, glad to habe not died and got her runnig good again, but sooo bummed about the paint.

Yeah. Ive got 5-20 weight in it. Couldnt find a better option locally. It seems like it doesnt really kick in soon enough, like the lowest bit isnt dampened, causing a lean mix. Im pretty sure I got plenty in there, they are pretty hard to move. I really am wondering about vaccuum leaks but all thats changed is the carbs, and all the bolts are tight, I checked that yesterday. Being that nothing changed but cleaning the carbs, changing the starter motor, and plugs. I dont see how a vaccuum leak wouldve developed, but I'll look for one

Plug #2 - looking rich : Plug # 4 - looking pretty. These are Autolite 63s I believe. The store only had 2 NGKs, so I had to settle. Gap is identical to my old plugs, which worked well. Dunno if its spec though. I've got the day off tomorrow, so I should hopefully be able to hit the hardware store and grab some tubing to check my float levels. I recorded a video of the behavior, of the carbs when the engine is warm. I'll edit and post it when I get home from work, so you guys can see whats going on. Like I said before, It happens most when the throttle opens suddenly, sometimes when I start the car (warm) and especially when its cold. Seems like a lean pop, and unburnt fuel puffs out both carbs. But if I enrich the mix, I get little after-fire pops (no visible flame), and thick, white exhaust.

Its just an edelbrock I got from the PO. Turns out I had got it spot on by ear. Its running better everyday, so at least I'm making progress. I pulled my plugs, and the front 3 seemed rich, and the rear was pretty good. I'll post pictures in a bit. It also seems like once the engine is warm, the only backfire occurs if I open the throttle quickly, or flutter it. Similar, if not a lean pop. It happens out both carbs at once, the fuel is not ignited. But its been in the single digits. After fire comes into play when I richen either carb any to help settle the pop. Leaning it immediately stops it. Perhaps they really are lean, but my plugs arent burning hot enough to richen it?

Thanks cap'n thats what I was looking for. Also, good news. I figured before I got spendy, I'd double check the my random car parts box and look what I found! Looks like the PO was nice enough to have given me his old unisynch and I never noticed. I also found some other well needed yet forgotten goodies like new weatherstripping. Bad, yet unrelated news is my Retrosound radio is definitely toast. Probably out of warranty, too. Guess I'll have to just listen to good old engine noise until I can fix it or save up 3 Bennys.

Okay. I was just hoping I could get it locally so I can skip on ship times. Also, what thickness clear tubing should I use to test the float level? No guide I've seen so far really specifies. I worked with it some more, and got it running a little better yet. The lowest I could get it to idle and stay alive as its supposed to in the push-pin test was over 1500 RPMs. If I richened it any more, my exhaust backfire worsened. If I increased the airflow, the RPMs because too high. I just can't get them at a low idle and pass the push pin test on the front carb. But It's better than the day before. Just how much suction should they have at idle? Something isn't right.. Right now I've got it running a little fast at 1000 RPMs, and it fails the pin test, but it got me to work.

Feels and sounds, Ive got a good ear. I do not, though I know its a good investment. they didnt used to be different, must've gotten knocked out of place on the rebuild. Im hoping thats where my problem lies. What stores would sell on of those airflow meters?

I'll take a look at that, thanks. And no kidding on that one.