ninjazombiemaster

If you're recognizing a supercharger, you'd be absolutely right. Maybe If we put the supercharger on suck instead of blow we'd have a chance. I'd really like to know how a setup like this dyno's, and performs. Particularly compared to a 280zxt swap.

'Dunno if this has been posted anywhere here, but the picture says it all.

Absolutely beautiful.

Some units require the gap to be set initially in the same manner as points. The unit sold for our Z's are fixed, and do not require the dwell to be set. Yes, thats the first model. The second model is red, and intended only for track cars I believe.

Yeah. I bought my car with a pertronix in it, drove it that way for about 6 months and it worked great. One day, the ignitor wires got caught in the rotor and ruined it, so I have been driving on points ever since. I know that my car *can* run great on the pertronix. Its just a matter of "why isn't it?". Internet searches, and other members suggest that this isn't uncommon with the unit. Some have been able to get it working, others ditched the unit. My guess is I got unlucky, and mine is just faulty in some way.. I was hoping EI would get me starting easier this winter, but I guess for now I'll stick with points.

It was the Ignitor 1 purchased directly from MSA. I'll find the part number for you when I get the chance. Edit: Part - "Ignitor Datsun 6 cyl: 1761"

That very picture was one of the reasons that sold me on my Z. As others have stated, rust is a major concern. And maybe your girlfriend getting jealous of all the time you spend with your car.

My pertronix instructions says 3 ohms for 4 cylinders, 1.5 for 6 or 8. Thanks Blue. I dont know where you find all this stuff. Whelp. Long day at the shop, but its fixed. Running like a champ... The ballast resistor was responsible for the unreasonable voltage. Replacing it brought the voltage down at idle, and showed healthy voltages at all rpms. However, this was not the problem. I rechecked everything. I mean everything. The night was coming to an end, and as a last ditch effort I reinstalled my points. Boom. Redlining with ease. So I put the pertronix back on. Falls at 4000 rpm. I put my points on yet again, gave it a rough gap and its got its spirit back. Now, that leaves two things. A faulty pertronix unit, or I wired it wrong. But, as the write up, the instructions, and common sense say - I did exactly this: I guess I'm going to be checking with MSA to see about a return..

Used a lab scope on my ignition. I was seeing 50k+ volts at idle. Yes, you read that right. My theory right now is that for some reason the car is demanding way more voltage than the coil can produce, and at high RPMs it can't keep up, power goes away, and when we can get a spark, it misses. Tried low resistance wires, just as bad. Put the old cap back on, just as bad. Spark plugs look good still. Gotta get back to work and order a new coil before the parts stores close...

Yeah - thats why I want a new header... and the leak. The ideal thing would be to order a new header, pre-install the bungs and get the wiring ready, then swap the headers ready to go. I like the analog gauges better also, since it looks period, however, I don't want to add any extra gauge pods. This one is going to be completely hidden, unless I want to see it.

Float levels shouldn't have changed, and we're set perfectly this summer. I can check again though. I slept in too much to test the coil today, but I will tomorrow. I've got the day off. I suppose your right. And yes, about 7x cheaper. Haha. Thanks!

Tried choking it, same problem. Also still happens with enrichment. Vacuum advanced works, but I'm not certain of the mechanical. I'll check, thanks. Maybe. There's a wire that appears to be a ground wire from the condenser. Its not real loose, but maybe when things get spinning... Theres also a notable amount of metal dust from the old rotor and cap wear. I'll hit it with condensed air. Yes, and I intend to try that. However, if the coil is bad, and the ignitor is only making the problem apparent, putting the points on would only be a bandaid for the failing coil.

I'd be installing them in the exhaust manifold right before the two pipes merge. I may wait until I get some headers, however. There is a crack in my manifold, so it'd be killing a few birds with one stone. I've changed the kit I'll be using from the one I posted way back. There's one with no gauge, just penny sized LED display to keep a stock appearance. It is also much cheaper than the other wide-band kits I've seen so far. Even still, total cost will be around 150 if I use my current manifold, or much higher if I get a new header. Anyone have a header they want to sell?

Today was the first day in a while that was dry enough for me to really drive the Z vigorously and safely. I noticed that my car is losing almost all power at 4000 rpm. The stuttering sound it makes is like its run out of gas, but then it starts backfiring. Seems like both from the exhaust and intake at times. This only happens above ~4000 rpms, in all gears. It idles fine, and drives fine at low RPMs. Since I haven't been driving it in that fashion real recently, I'm not really sure when the problem started. However, the car has a new rotor, distributor cap, pertronix ignitor, alternator upgrade and battery. I really feel like its an ignition problem. I immediately suspected fuel, but leaning or enriching the carbs only makes it idle bad and still have the problem. I replaced my fuel filter, which was a little dirty and checked the last chance filters, and were both clean. Float levels haven't changed, so those shouldnt be running dry. Besides, fuel has to be getting somewhere for back and afterfire. If I had to guess when the problem started, I'd say when the pertronix was installed. I suppose the unit could be defective, or maybe I don't have it connected right (though I'm pretty sure I do). I also believe, and correct me if I'm wrong, but an ignition like the ignitor is more likely to be effected by a failing coil than points. I'll double check my plugs, but they we're good 2 days ago when I looked last. The plug wires didn't have any visible arcs that I could see, so I don't suspect them, however I do consider it a possibility. They are the NGK plug wires we all know and love. I did try swapping the coil wire to a different one with no luck. My suspects are: The Coil: I'm going to test it if possible tomorrow. If not possible, I may just replace it anyway. The Electronic Ignition: If the coil tests good, or a new coil doesn't resolve the issue... Any other suggestions or ideas on what I should check tomorrow?

Two O2 sensors on a switch to a single wideband display it is, then. I think I'm going to hide the display under that Z emblem plate behind the shifter. Thanks for the input guys.

I like the way you think, Blue

Hey guys, I've been overhauling most of my electrical ignition lately and wanted your input on ignition coils. Right now, my car has a generic looking black ignition coil that has been there since I bought it a year and a half ago. I don't think that there's necessarily anything "wrong" with it, but I was wondering if there was a noteworthy improvement in using new or different coils. I do have a pertronix ignitior installed currently. I see there are several options for coils, from the pertronix flamethrower models, MSD, hitachi, etc, etc. Is there a best option when it comes to coils?

Heres a quick question. I'm thinking about moving forward on this project. My budget would allow me to either install two narrow band sensors (one for the front carb, and another for the rear) or a single wide band. I know how some of you guys feel about the narrowband sensors, but having a per carb reading would be really neat and probably beneficial.

Too bad its scrap fiberglass..

Haha, indeed it does! Good way to make an easy job frustrating..

I can't think of anything local, but you can get 9mm adhesive chrome trim for automotive applications on ebay. You could pick up 5m of the stuff for less than $10, which should be plenty.

Thanks for the reply. Old parts are identical, just more worn... Putting them back on I still had no luck.. BUT! While I was working on that I had an idea. What I did was crank the engine over TDC and noticed that the rotor was not pointing at #1, but at #4. I offset the wires by one, counter clockwise and it fired right up. I don't know if somehow I offset them in the wrong spot (more likely) or if somehow TDC offset during the installation (less likely).

Today I replaced my distributor cap and rotor. I have a pertronix electronic ignition in their. I touched absolutely nothing else, at all. I have checked the firing order about a dozen times, but the car absolutely will not start anymore. I drove it about 5 minutes before doing the change. The car cranks, and after cranking, it actually does fire a few times like its running on two cylinders for a few seconds before dying. So there has to be some ignition happening. I pulled the spark plugs, they look fine. After all, the car just ran. What could I be missing?

Basically. Its Like a sticky aluminum foil used primarily for chrome parts on model cars. I think it'd be perfect for this application. You can find application tutorial videos on youtube, I bet. I'd look myself if I wasn't working.

That actually sounds like a great idea! I think I might try this myself. Thanks