ninjazombiemaster

One extra note. If the car is running, my amp meter sits dead center. Running lights, etc, push it left like normal. Normally higher RPMs pushes it to the right. However, it won't move right past the center line at all. If I idle and rev my engine really high, it goes crazy and the meter flies all over its range.

My car had been driving kind of weird, stalling a little, and the head and dash lights would flicker when driving. This got worse and worse, until it was borderline undrivable, difficult to start (today it didn't start, dead battery), and running headlights seemed to make it worse. Rock Auto has several Alternators between 50-60 amps for about $30+shipping less a core charge, should I choose to send one. I could be mistaken, but I'm most likely on the 40 amp stock alternator. Does a dying alternator fit the bill for all this? And does anyone have a specific recommendation on the new unit? I'm not paying $100+ for an MSA one, though if I'm not already converted, it is my understanding I'll either need to purchase a external to internal regulator conversion kit, or rewire it myself in order to prevent the car from not shutting off / dying slowly from a trickle.. though I'm sure there are plenty of threads on that already.

The other day a pristine, red, roofless Z (looks like they had used an alfa romeo spider's rear to convert it) spotted my Z at work and pulled into the parking space next to mine to check it out. I've never seen it around before, and I'm surprised they spied me.

I actually sent my knob to him, and he made an insert for me in exchange for using mine as a template to make his own knob.

Yeah. Mine was essentially glued in place, which had hardened into epoxy-threading, because there was nothing left of the original threads. Took a ton of effort, several blisters and small movements day by day.

Before I noticed this issue, it showed about 1/2 up the meter pretty much always. I think that's like 45 lbs/in2. It was pretty constant, and got there quickly after start up, whether it was driven or idled and regardless of tempurature.

Surely couldn't. I've got a spare filter laying around somewhere, I'm sure. Guess I'll also top it off while I'm at it. Also, I looked at the sending unit, and there's enough patina there I'm not sure what color its supposed to be.

I don't hear anything out of the ordinary from the engine. That being said, I'm sure my valves could use a I'll take a look at the sender when I go for my lunch break and see how it looks.

I think its 10w40, but I'm not the one who put it in. That being said, its the same oil it had when it was working. Its warmed up quite a bit here - so its possible that it is the oil just never noticed before.

Hey guys, last night I noticed my car wasn't reading any oil pressure at idle. It seems to have started after I had to jump it several times because I left my lights on. As I drive, the pressure climbs and then gets to about halfway up the meter and stays until I idle again. I looked Something wrong with the sending unit? Possibly a leak? Maybe the oil filter or oil itself? I did change my clutch lost a little oil, but there was still an acceptable amount in there as far as I'm aware. I'll see if I can get my hands on a mechanical gauge. I get a gut feeling its gonna read normal. I cant work on it right now, so I'm hoping you folks had any other suggestions on what to check so I can make effective use of limited shop time. Thanks.

Happy to say that moving the pedal stopper back appears to have done the trick.

Sounds easy enough. I just had a hard time believing it was that simple. Hopefully what feels like slippage is just the clutch not fully engaging, and not a sign of a poor quality plate. I could afford the kit and a few hours in the shop - but I can't afford to redo it.

The police love my Z. No matter how terrible, fast or loud I drive I have not been pulled over once.

The FSM only mentions moving the lock nut on the Master push rod to about 8.Something inches. Is that really all there is to it?

I just replaced my clutch yesterday, haha. You mean this? Should be available in a lot of places. Exedy Clutch Pressure Plate - Buy W0133-1615547 Clutch Pressure Plate Online However, its not much more expensive to get the full kit (disk, plate and bearings) and replace them all while your down there.

Ok. I'll check it out. It actually seems to have mostly self-resolved. But its always good to check anyway, since if the clutch doesn't disengage enough, its just needlessly wearing it down.

3 hours in the shop and shes back on the road. The wearing was on the pressure plate side of the disk, so the flywheel was actually in great shape. Forgive that some of the photos are sideways. I uploaded them directly from my phone and it refused to let me rotate them. Ready for a lift. The new disk. The old, very worn plate and disk. The flywheel at the machine shop, getting a resurface for good measure. Nearly back together.. I still need to adjust the clutch. It still seems to slip at higher RPMs - but it definitely grabs much better. I need to resolve that before I damage this one prematurely. I've never done it before, so any tips are appreciated.

You can tell its been my week

You're right - it doesn't makes sense to risk destroying the flywheel to save $50 on a tow. That being said, I'd also rather not spend $50 on a tow. I ended up getting that kit I linked too, but I found a better price on it. $100 even with free shipping. I'm expecting it in a day or two. Long term, I'd like to upgrade to a nice one, but this is really just a matter of getting my daily driver back on the road as soon as (and as inexpensively) as possible. The engine revs when the clutch is supposed to be engaged like normal. Just almost none of that power gets to the wheels.

After a year of jolly good fun, I'm pretty sure I've burned out my clutch. It takes incredible amounts of engine power to translate into even the smallest amount of power to the wheels. The engine idles and revs up fine - but when put into gear and ready to go its a slow crawl forward. I've had the car since July, so nearly a year, and really don't know what kind of shape the clutch was in when I got it but needless burnouts at every stoplight do indeed lead to premature wear. I am considering this kit: Heavy Duty Clutch Kit 1973 Nissan 240Z Base 2.4L l6 I'll have to make one last pathetic drive to the shop (hoping it makes it) where my DD will stay for days, until the part arrives. As far as I'm aware they can't be found locally here in Salt Lake City. On a more positive not, that explains the recent loss of power and gas mileage! Here's to another year of peel-outs before inevitable clutch failure..!

They got back to me with an email. All the buttons work, and it beeps at normal volume when you press them. I'll pull it out and check my cables tomorrow - I can get it to work temporarily by fiddling with them a bit but it gets quiet again after a few minutes. Not really sure what to think of that - maybe a loose connection in the unit somewhere.

Hey guys, 'Couple 'a days ago my radio (Model One Retrosound) got super quite. It seems like all the individual speakers work as they should (stock and 6x9s in a rear box) just at a super low volume. I emailed Retrosound, but while I wait for their response I figured I'd post here. Anyone have a similar issue? At this point, I'm inclined to think its an amp problem. Since the radio and speakers work otherwise normally.

Yeah. When I bought my car, it looked pretty crummy inside despite the otherwise nice interior all because the missing shift cap, and overall poor shape of the shifter. I had the threads redone by one of our fellow members and sanded of all the gunk. It really made the interior complete.

Finaaaaaly received the correct item from the company and can get started on this project.

I have a '73, and its the black and white cap you see in mgoods pictures.