ninjazombiemaster

I had the same issue with my car. Got lucky and another member happened to have a spare.

Will do. I emailed the company again, and I'm still waiting to hear back about the missing part. Thanks! True! ha. My goal is to get as even lighting as possible, as well as being able to easily change the color to anything I want, and still be able to change it back to stock look without having to take anything apart, change bulbs or filters. In this case, there's a remote and infrared receiver that lets me do it all on the fly. Thats why I'm making it extra hard..

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/48940-led-dash-conversion-begins.html#post426447 Heres the thread thats detailing my method. I decided to go the expensive route, with an infrared controlled system that can change colors. I'm going to remove but keep the filters. If I left them, they'd likely goof with the lighting. I've some minimal soldering experience from working on guitars, so soldering some leads should hopefully be easy enough.

Its been two weeks and I still haven't received the correct item. I guess I'm going to have to email the company again. All this over a $5 part. At least the weather warmed up a little in that time, so when I can start, it'll be a little nicer.

Blue once got into detail on that "paradox".. there are so many dynamics at work that yes, its possible. It really depends on the needle you run, how much air you pull, etc. Also, the lighter the oil the more subject to bumps in the road and driving conditions. What works for one's SU setup easily wont on another's. The way mine is set up will go very lean with a light oil.

You are correct, I misspoke (typed?). The polymers reduce the thickening of the oil in cold temps. But that thickening can be good for cold SUs, is the point I'm getting at. You're second point is also correct. It doesn't effect only WOT, but all transitions. However, the benefit remains as long as you don't go overboard. That could also depend on the needles you use, and other factors as you know. This is all in my rather limited experience, of course.

I'm still trying to get my mix right. I've tried ATF, 5w-20 (bad choices), 10w-40 mixed with 5w-20 which made it more drivable. My local motorcycle shop gave me some bottles of various weight fork oil to find my perfect mix but I haven't gotten into it yet. From what I've seen so far 15wt anything should mostly help prevent backfiring and leaning out at WOT, factory 20wt is probably still ideal. Heavier than that and the oil thickens when cold enough to behave as an accelerator pump effect which could be good for performance, but too heavy and you'll just waste gas. Too light and the piston will rise rapidly at WOT and create a lean condition when your engine needs the fuel the most. This can cause a lean pop and cause the engine to stall at worst, and at best will damage performance. Modern engine oils with multi-viscosity can cause the oil to be less viscous when the engine in cold. Good for engines, not necessarily for SUs. This can cause backfires and poor performance when cold, that smooths out when the engine warms up. That's what I experience with my car, and what I'm trying to curb with the fork oils.

I did not bend mine and it works perfect.

I am a little worried about that. I will be using this to connect each pod together. I'm not sure if they're long enough, but I'll know soon enough! Still waiting on the correct item to arrive, to wire it to the power. The company was very responsive and fair in getting the right item out after their error. I initially intended to power it at the light socket in the speedo, and have everything hidden under/in the dash, except the small IR receiver poking out somewhere. Connecting each pod with that cable left to right, and finally down to the heater control panel. I suppose I could work in reverse of that, too. Whichever offers the best mounting for the receiver. Also, that way I suppose I could still drive it if the project runs long since the speedo and tach would be the last.

If I remember correctly, there was a Z in the car accident scene in Pulp Fiction, as wells as in Cars 2 in the Japanese tier. I'll have to give this one a watch, though.

I absolutely love seeing the results on this thread. Can't wait to get to mine.

Looks like I will not get to start today, because they sent me this instead of this by mistake. Probably wont get a chance to do it this week after all. Ugh.. Emailed the company and hopefully they get the correct item out gracefully. I needed that piece to connect the LED strips to the cars power, and I'm not going to tear anything apart until I know I can power it.

Okay, I looked and everything seems to be appropriate. I was wrong, my coil is black, but honestly if it was the wrong resistance it probably would've melted months ago. I may upgrade to a 12V coil eventually, after I get my alternator upgraded. Thanks for the help guys.

So it needs 1.5 ohms additional resistance from the ballast, if I understand correctly? If it is the stock coil, anyway. I'm working now so I cant go look, but if I remember right, my coil is blue. I don't know if that helps anyone determine if it is or is not stock.

Reasonable enough. I'll take a look, and if I can't identify it I'll post a picture. Is 3 Ohms is the correct resistance? I'm not experienced at all with car electronics.

That makes sense. Since it was bypassed for use with the pertronix, is it safe to say that its correct as is? I mean I've been driving it for months. Since I don't know what all was done with the install since it was the PO, I just pulled of the ignitor and popped in the points and condenser.

Hey folks. I bought my car with a pertronix ignition installed, which eventually failed. I converted it back to points and have been running it that way all winter long. Anyway, the ballast resistor was removed from the car since its not needed in electronic ignition setup. My car still does not have one.. Is this going to ruin the coil? If so, how would I hook one up. I'm not sure how its supposed to be wired.

^This Another alternative is ebay. I often see fully rebuilt SU pairs come available for around $300 there. I cannot speak for the quality of those builds, however I can speak for the quality of ztherapy. They did mine back in 2011 and they still look like new.

Hey folks, I am getting started on my LED dash conversion project, based on this thread. All of the items where purchased from hitlights. The LEDs can change color (and even perform animations for those who want to get in accidents) The idea is to remove the original lighting, and run the strips through each instrument. It has adhesive backing, and would attach to the green portion of this quick illustration. The strips can be cut every 3 lights, and cables can run out the original holes for the bulbs and between instruments. They will be powered from the existing leads for the bulbs as seen in the ratsun tutorial, allowing them to be controlled normally. My 240z is my daily driver, so I have to work quickly. My days off this week are Wednesday and Thursday. I hope I can tackle it in that time.

Both good ways to go. My brother used the transmitter for his car that didn't have an input, which worked, but wasn't always super clear. I really like ksbeta's method. If I had an original radio, thats the route I'd go. Its discreet, and would have clear signal while maintaining the original look. I've always had a Retrosound unit in my car, so I just plug right in. It accepts SD, USB, iPod/Phones. Their higher end model is bluetooth capable. Its also the most expensive and intrusive route.

No I'm not. I'm believe the wiring is present at the very least but I'm at work and can't be sure. If its not there, or not hooked up, I would like to get one / get it working, so it'd be smart to have the relay correctly set up. Look at me getting hung up on something that may not present an issue I was looking at rock auto, and they looked to have units for about $30 shipped from the normal manufacturers, so I'd probably go that route. Beats the 100 something dollar Bosch kit from MSA. I'd just need the adapter if I chose not to splice for reversibility.

Okay. Do have any experience in terms of how the swap effects the car? Since its not an expensive upgrade, I'd just like some feedback before I get into it to know if its worth the time.

For safety reasons in an accident I'm guessing? Fair enough.. Ok. I'm sure thats in other threads so I'll see what I can find in regards to that.

Just got a cork felpro gasket for my valve cover. Probably had been sitting for 35 years. It was not usable.. I had to substitute with silicone. Probably a better seal, but now theres silly red goo around my valve cover!