ninjazombiemaster

Also, it seems like Summit Racing no longer carries the item. They have their own version, priced about the same here. The Intellitronix model can still be found from other sources. I believe Bosch sells affordable O2 sensors. I don't know what would be the best way to install the sensor in the system though. If anyone has a good idea, share!

Hey folks, I would like to convert my interior lights to LEDs (Speedo, Tach, Temp, Oil, Clock, Dome and Map), but have basically no knowledge in the department. All the write-ups I've found so far have been a little above my head. A lot of people recommend Super Bright LEDs, so I will probably purchase from there. I'm sure I can remove all the instruments without a walk-through, my question really is just what considerations must be made to do the switch and not mess anything up, light anything on fire, etc. ? I also think it'd be cool to be able to control the color of them. I know things like that exist, I just don't know how easily it could be done in this application. Here what I have selected for the dash lights, and here is what I was thinking for the dome. I'm not sure what type of bulb the map light takes.

Not sure if the fellow who did this site is one of us, but I couldn't find mention of this. Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge I wouldn't mind having one of these things to see how the ratio changes in real time. I've got some sort of gauge housing that appears to attach to the door frame or something (currently not installed) that I could put it on. I really don't know how to describe it better, I've frankly never seen another before. I'll take a picture for you guys when I can.

I didn't have the opportunity to know Enrique for very long, and it didn't take long either to see what a kind and genuine person he was. Thankfully, some of his knowledge and words will be eternalized here. Rest in peace, Enrique.

Just kidding, stupid question. I got them off. I also took this opportunity to take my tops off and try a different fluid. I previously had 10-40 with a little 5-20 mixed in (i think its too heavy, and causes my car to deplete its fuel bows too fast and run rich on acceleration). This time I put ATF in and my car started lean popping on throttle like crazy. I dont know how any of you folks run that stuff, it was very light. Now I've got to do it again tomorrow and just put 10-40 in it until I can find a good fluid. I guess fork oil is next on the list. Back on topic, it was rather hard to see the fuel level from above, even with my young eyes. Piching the fuel line made it wiggle a bit, which helped. Its a neat method, but I think the old clear hose trick is perhaps a bit better.

I had the Retrosound and was very satisfied with it, until it broke rather recently. I typically streamed Pandora over my phone into the Aux. Retrosound also has a new model with built in bluetooth and other goodies, but for the tune of $400, I'd rather just reinstall another basic unit. You can always do external bluetooth like Mike suggested. I have a Kenwood sound system and rear speaker box installed, and when it worked, it sounded fantastic. Very loud and good quality. I'll definitely try to fix it, or replace it if I can't.

Drooling over here. I hope my bay looks that clean some day!

Or salt lake city Zs, it will likely resemble some kind of cheese.

Thanks! Remember to post some pictures of it all back together.

Cool, thanks Blue!

I was thinking something like that might be the case. Sounds like you're right. There are some other under dash things I wanted to get to anyway. My dash light dimmer doesn't seem to work, nor does my clock. I'll have to wait till its warm enough to bike to work, in case the work isn't done in time. Oh, I could repair the dash cracks, too while Its out, I've been wanting to try the method from that thread here.. Haha

The PO wrapped mine in leather, old fashioned wrapping, spiraled around it and tired. Looks rather nice in my opinion, and can be seen in my very first post ever. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/46994-introducing-my-73-240z.html No idea what kind of shape it is in underneath, since I don't want to have to re-wrap it! But anyway, they are looking nice!

I'm not sure if this is normal for these quirky old cars, so I figured I'd ask before I start tearing into things. (I almost took my door apart once since I couldn't lock it with the door open ) Anyway, my heater works to my expectations for a car that recently had its 40th birthday, but heat only comes out the defrost or floor. I'm guessing that's normal, since the heater panel only says those options. This wouldn't bother me so much but the dash vents ( the round ones on each side, and the rectangular one in the center ) continue to blow cold winter air on my hands while I drive. Should they blow hot, too? Or should the not blow at all when the heat is on. Just something I found to be rather odd.

Got it. So it's done via the linkage between the carbs. Sounds easy enough.

Hey, I just need some real quick clarification on setting the high-speed balance setting for the early SU carbs. My understanding is that you set the idle airflow, bring the service screw in to 3000 RPM and then check the airflow again? Adjusting the same screws as you would at idle to maintain balance at high RPMs? I need to be efficient before I attempt it, my neighbors really don't like the noise ;P I just haven't seen it described in more detail then "First you balance your idle, then you set your high-speed balance" Thanks!

Very cool. I'm going to give this a try. I'm a little worried about the stoppers, though. Mine are still intact. Anyone with experience have suggestions to remove them, if need be?

Probably some grime moving the choke linkage when the throttle is applied. I'd clean it until they move independently. Leaving it will goof with your carbs mixture on acceleration. That image gives me a question, when might someone adjust #1: The Vacuum Adjusting Screw? I also reference this image a lot. Its from a Volvo, so there are some minor differences, but the main workings are the same. Not to hijack the thread, but my car has been seeming to "run out" of fuel on very heavy acceleration - as you might see going up a freeway ramp (or every stoplight ever ) If I keep the pedal heavy pressed, it makes a sputtering sound, loses power, backfires majorly and then picks back up when I shift. I'm guessing its either running a little rich (depleting the bowl faster than it could fill) and flooding until it clears and, then boom. Possibly the bowls are just set too low, as well. And it runs out. Doesn't explain the boom, though.

I was thinking the exact same thing.. An interesting alternative, nonetheless.

I believe it became optional in '73. Mine doesn't have it, but I believe it could just be bolted on.

, zombie threads. Still an interesting topic, and I had the similar debate with my mother when buying my Z. I was buying a used car, either way. It was just, ~5k for a 5 year old or ~5k for a 40 year old car. We all know how the story ends - and I don't regret it. Sure, I've spent a little more on occasional repairs and accessories I might not have otherwise needed, but they've all been done by me. But the newish used car would surely have problems, too. Ones I probably couldn't fix easily, not to mention I wouldn't like it nearly as much. My next car, however.. When I can afford it. All the trimmings, AC, fancy phone technologies, all that good stuff they come with. But I'll still drive the Z on nice summer days - or perhaps more often than the new one.

Finally got around to doing the valve work I've been putting off. They felt sloppy when I was driving, and oil leaked out of the cover in a few areas (one of the holes was stripped so the bolt wouldn't get tight, probably the culprit).. Anyway, pulled off the cover and spent a good while pulling off the gunky cork gasket, and quickly found that the nut who last messed with these severely over-torqued the bolts (by like 100 lbs) which made the job much harder. They were indeed sloppy, much too tight in fact, as too be expected. Much longer and I probably would've burned them. Did some work on the threading so the bolt would tighten. Then, the new gasket turned out to be a dud. Broke out of the box, and split totally in half when applied. Silicone saved the day, but I needed to add washers to get them tight enough without the thickness of the gasket. Probably will seal better anyway. All in all, the car feels/sounds more responsive, and the exhaust putter on deceleration has been reduced, learned a little and am glad too see the train itself is in good shape. On a side note, would you guys recommend running Lucas upper cylinder lubricant in these engines? My understanding is that they were designed for leaded gasoline and need additives to prevent wear on the valves. And I probably shouldve asked before I started, but spec is .010 and .012, correct? The engine was warm, but not hot by the time I was able to get at it.

Gave it a go on the chromed bit of my wheels (just the center cap and bolts). Good results. Now I just gotta polish that aluminum!

If I had time and money for another Z, I'd snag that. Pheonix isnt too far and I love an excuse for a road trip. Wonder I the PO was/is a member

Okay folks, the results are in - and rather impressive. With just minor scrubbing, water and tin foil I was able to greatly reduce the amount of surface rust. Its not working miracles, as you can see in the second photo, once its pitted its pitted, but I would recommend this easy method to anyone just needing routine touch ups to their chromed steel bits.