ninjazombiemaster

This is gonna sound real dumb, but I'm trying to remove my shift knob to restor it, and it doesn't want to go. I've been working at it for days, I've tried rubber, leather, wrenches, it's maybe moved a quarter inch up the shaft. Anyone know a good safe-for-the-knob way to get it off? Right now it's soaking up some WD 40, and I'm all out of ideas.

No, just at idle. I got it to speed, and put propane in the air horn and monitored the raise in RPMs. They both seemed perfect. It's a little archaic, and I could be wrong. The "shop" belongs to my father, who has been doing this around 30 years. He's no carb master, but he knows his stuff. The spark plugs checked out good,I'm working on te timing now. Edit: looked at the timing, it was basing at 22 and advancing over 40. I trimmed it back down to 10 and will keep my eye on it. The new fuel sending unit comes in a few days, so I'll have it on the lift next week, and will take a look at the fuel pump then. The Distributer looked fine to me, but if it persists I'll take it apart and see what's going on. I'll let you guys know how it runs.

Heres a video of how its going. All these properties are much worse in the cold, which its getting lately.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sB0B11Rnm8 Sorry about the video, it looked fine before I uploaded it....but it gets the point across. I'll be heading to the shop in a bit to look at the battery, spark and possibily the Dizzy. Hopefully this sheds some light on the problem.

I believe white is the most commonly bought car color, it looks nice and stays relatively clean-looking. A white Z with black trim is very good looking imo, but not real classic. Black comes second, its considered "the luxury color" for cars, and requires a lot of attention to keep clean. Black cars are also less likely to be pulled over by police. I've never been a huge fan of black Z's though. Silver and Greys come next, they are the cleanest looking colors, and are fantastic on most Zs imo. Red cars are the next best sellers, followed by blue. A surprising amount of copper colored cars are popping up these days as well. In the end, A lot of people appreciate a stock colored Z. Mine was originally a canary yellow, I dont know the exact code, but I much prefer its red (even though it does look pink or orange in certain light)

Likewise! My wiring is a bloody mess. She runs though, so I don't bother. ;D

Better than I expected for international. Check your PMs!

Looks great, what'll it cost to get it to salt lake city?

Congrats! Cant wait to see 'er.

This is definitely one of my favorite threads. My dash could definitely use this repair, as I have no interest in a cap. I think I'll look into that low expansion foam for the dash and possibly a similar method with epoxy to repair my center console. Fantastic stuff guys! When I get around to it, I'll give it a try and post pictures.

You can get them at arts and crafts stores, often with the leather crafting supplies. You'll want a Snap Anvil/Hammer and then of course the snaps. My mum makes cloth diapers, and she has a tool that's made for that as well, but the leather crafting supplies are probably more durable and can be used on metal snaps.

Yes definitely. Care to post a picture?

That's too bad. I guess I can pick up a new knob, and if I ever come across a new map, restore it and reinstall the original.

Hey guys. I have what I'm pretty sure is the original shift knob on my 240z, however, unfortunately, the gear map/cap is missing. I'd like to replace just the cap and polish and restore the original rather than change the whole knob out. Is there anywhere I can get accurate replacements for the 4 speed '73 knobs gear map?

Yeah, that was the one I've got my eyes on. I'll wait on it a bit, but if its as good a repro as it seems, I'm definitely gonna buy.

Checked te banjo bolt and filter and they seemed clean. I touched them up anyway. Gotta get cleaned up for work so that's about all I have time to check today.

I checked the vacuum advance and it all seemed normal. At idle, the RPMs waver between 800-1k and if you rev it sometimes drops clear down to 400 before building back up. I'll take a look at those filters, and find a volt meter laying around somewhere and get back to you guys. The car itself brakes just fine, just occasionally squeals. More likely some gunk on the rear brakes, but I'll check it out! Thanks!

I still feel like there's a problem. Initially I realized that my idle speed was much too low, and that even hot the engine dies with the choke off (that's towards the engine, correct?). There was a lot of sooty residue in the tail pipe, which would indicate running rich - which makes sense since I was driving with the engine choked up. I upped the idle speed so it was about 800-900 RPM when the engine was at operating temperature and the choke off, and changed a very filthy fuel filter. Once its warmed up a bit, it seems to run and start real well generally, Its mostly just its cold start in the mornings and the couple of minutes it takes to warm up. It'll run very sluggish, and I have to keep it choked until the temp needle reads about center, ~200 degrees. It also seems to be having a hard time breaking 70Mph. I guess I shouldn't be too worried about that since the speed limits are never more than 65 here - but they seem like they're related issues. Either way, I feel like the issue is with the fuel delivery, especially based on the condition of the old filter. As for the poor cold start, I was skimming another thread where someone had an issue that ended up being a fuel leak from the bottom of the carb that emptied the bowl, so he had to crank extra for initial start up until it could refill, so I'll check into that. As for the sluggishness, could it be a weakening fuel pump or possibly battery or a clog somewhere? I'd like to get this all sorted before the weather gets chilly! Edit: Also, it tends to backfire at high RPMs still, 6-7k which usually indicates a lean situation or a timing issue, correct? Any thoughts on that? Thanks! P.s. here are those engine bay pics. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46994-2.html

Hahah, oh my.

I'm definitely leaning towards OEM, I just don't know if I'm sold on these based off some of the comments in this thread. Any more opinions on these mirrors? http://www.datsunparts.com/2323

No kidding, the passenger side especially. The frame rails themselves are alright from what I've seen. Thanks! Thanks! Haha Indeed, and its a damn good thing. I havent heard anything good about the flat tops, I suppose, besides emissions, but mine its pretty decent in that department as well.

Here are a few more... This shows the general extent of the rust on 'er. In the floors, particularly the passenger side, and the passenger fender. And here's one just for fun. In other news, got the brakes changed from metallic to ceramic, so they no longer squeal. I've been making subtle adjustments to the tuning to get it where I want, and found out why my gas gauge wont work. It appears there's a small gas leak on the sending unit itself. I also believe my fuel pump may be weak, so I'll look into that.

Here are the engine bay pics ya'll requested. Sorry for the lighting and quality - best I cuold do at this time of day without the Nikon. Nothing shiny like some of yours', but what do you guys think?

Its beautiful. I wish my pops would do something like that!

"You seem conflicted. Your first statement fits with this forum, classiczcars, your second is more along the lines of the hybridz.org thinking." Shes classic as she is, and will probably stay that way - but its like OJ said, there's something about classic Japanese sports car looks with a modern drive train. Honestly, I'd rather get a second Z to mod if anything. This one is tastefully restored. "With 110 K now, unless you plan on putting a rod through the block you might have to wait a while." Indeed:) It was given a decent overhaul at around 100k, so it should have a long life ahead of it. It has an aftermarket aluminum radiator, but that was more because of the availability than anything. And I believe the carbs are from a 72 or something, not sure, exactly, but they've been swapped. Basically everything on her is Original or OEM/Reproduction. It also has some other performance parts installed, front bushings (havent gotten around to the back), sway bar, that sort of thing.