frankensteinZ

You watched the whole thing. That movie sucked. Frankenstein Z

Jim Carey in Bruce almighty drives a 280z or maybe a 260z. He wrecks it and then turns it into a Mclaren F1. Life and the poor choices we make. Frankenstein Z

Took off the valve cover and everything looks okydoky. I can't get the engine to turn over at all. It get pops a little bit but it never turns over, it cranks freely though. I thought it might be timing which is why I took off the valve cover but I don't see any thing wrong, but I don't know where else to look. I got down underneath to loosen the clutch and the spring had trans. fluid on it. Also when I tried to pop the clutch down my driveway the car made a really weird noise, like a grinding noise. After I had tried to pop the clutch earlier before the problem occured I had reved the car up and let the clutch out fast, droped the clutch, and I didn't really notice a problem right away it spun out a little and then took off. The freeway entrance was like less then a quartermile from where I spun out. It happen kinda abruptly I can't remeber if there was a pop or not before it all started but the engine started shaking and running like @#$@. I lossed alot of power I had to go down a gear before I could really get going and it was so bad I decided to turn over to the side. Like I said from the look of the engine everything was fine. Got back in the car it started up with some black smoke and god aweful noises like maybe it was missin or but it was running horrible. I wouldn't have drivin it any more but I was going to be late for work and I just got the job. So I drove off and everytime I would give it gas it would make a noise that was definitely mechanical and it kinda sounded like my two cycle motorcycle when I rev it. I had the choke up high because that was the only way the car would run, if I just kinda let that gas the car and hit the accelerater the car would go a little better but the it was still running like #@#$, however when I hit the accelerater it would make that weird noise. Well I got to work and took another look at the engine and saw nothing. When I came back out after work the engine wouldn't start and I had to have it towed. The car has plenty of spark and plenty of gas but I can't get it to fire. Please tell me someone has an idea on this, I need this car like I need air. Frankenstein Z

HHHahahahahah guess I should have read all of that. Glad you got your baby back and I hope you still find who stole it and beat the living p#@$ out of them. Frankenstein Z

Sorry to hear about your loss. I know when my car was broken into I was heart broken for a while to have it stolen I don't know what I would do. I hope you find this guy someday in the future parked at a gas station, and you proceed to beat the living #@#$ out of him and get your baby back. Crimes against a man's car should be punishable by death. Frankenstein Z

I check to make sure the car has plenty of spark which it does and I also I checked at the floats and it is getting plenty of fuel. I have been searching the forums and some of the flywheel problems people have sound alot like the ones I am experiencing, but I haven't heard anyone saying their car will not even start because of it. FRankenstein Z

My 72 240z died on me today. I went to drop the clutch out of this parking lot I was in and next thing I know the car is running like crap almost like a choking noise, it made a weird rattling noise when I reved up the engine I pulled over to the side of the road and look at the engine. Nothing externally was different. I then turned on the car. It had to have the choke all the way on and it was burning out black smoke. Then the smoke cleared and I only experienced the rattling noise on the revs. I had to have it towed home because it wouldn't start, I couldn't get it to turn over at all. I tried to pop the clutch on my very hilly driveway and had no luck the rpm would only go up to 100 or 200 and that was it, it was like the clutch was slowing it up or something was limiting it. I also had difficulty shifting a little bit. Well is this all very vague or what? I need to get this car running because it is my daily driver. The starter will turn the engine no problem but it just will not fire at all. let me know frankenstein Z

Tearing apart the car to chase a couple of wires down doesn't ever sound like a good idea, and on some sound systems a meter won't work. Tricks of the trade.:beard:

Finally a topic of the z I am well versed in. As mushupork5 said the wires you will have to find yourself I highly doubt anybody sells a harness. I have a 72 240z with 2 12's and pro horns and tweeters on a 3000 watt amp (huh what did you say, I don't hear well :stupid: ) . Acoustics in these old cars aren't the best because everything vibrates off sub bass. I am unfamiliar with the 78 model but installing is easy. I don't know if you plan to put in a sub box also, but it isn't hard either way. All you need is a antenna wire which will stick out like a sore thumb, its the biggest wire on the back of your stereo and it is a universal connection on both sides so your antenna should fit into it fine. It will be a thick wire with a single pin. Next you would need to find a constant power with this can be done by cutting into a wire going to the ignition or cigarette lighter if yours always has power. Next you will need an acc wire this can be found in almost any wire in the the car just look for a wire the gets power as soon as you turn on your ignition. Next would be the ground this will be a black wire with a funky end on it used to screw into a ground on the chassic normally I just unscrew a bolt the is well grounded and go to that. If you plan to use the car's speakers you will be stuck with a chore. The way I find what wires are your orginal speakers is to use a AA battery and touch ends of the wires on the harness going in to the old radio together until I get a little crackle out of a speaker, this will tell you if you have the wires of one of your speakers, positive and negative probably won't matter unless you have bought after market speakers. If you plan to put in a sub box you will also need a remote wire that runs from your new radio back to your old one this tell the amp in the sub box to come on so that it isn't on constantly. You could also just run another wire off your acc and it will serve the same purpose. I your using your old speakers it would be alot easier to find a wire harness in a store but I don't think you will find one. frankensteinZ

aka frankenstein Z

Thanks for being so clear tanny. Your were correct it is a 72 240z. I am looking for the bleeder at advanced auto parts and should have it in a couple of days, will let you know how it turned out. Loren

I beat on the car some more today and notice my first observation was wrong. The car pulls no matter if the e brake it up a little or not. So this mean I have one brake working and the other doesn't engage. This must just be adjustment or the an effect from a broken bleeder let air in maybe? I am guessing. What else would cause a brake not to engage besides adjustment or lack of pressure? Frankenstein Z

I have been trying to get good brakes for a while. I have been suffering from the double pump method for a while with these brakes. I'll see something in the road, press the brakes nothing, then I let up press again and oh there's something. I went to bleed my brakes and found that my RR drum has a broken bleeder ( anybody know for sure if it is a 7mm x 1.0?). So I figured that this is why I am having bad brakes because I have air in my RR and I can't get it out cuse its broke off. Well I plan on either drilling or tapping it out. Well in the process of finding a new brake I having been using my emergency brake to closen up the pads so my brakes work alright. Well in doing this I have found with the e brake on my car pulls to one side. Could this be a direct result of the air in the lines or could this be a adjustment needed on the side in the front that is not braking as well as the side that is pulling? Frankenstein Z

Hey victor, yeah that is what I thought, so I took it down to a place called auto electric here in my town. They are very reputable with this stuff. The guy told me he could get the parts any more. He said the armature was shot and so were some bushings. At least I think thats what he said. But anyways that leads me to my current spot. Appreciate the thought though, Frankenstein Z

I still have no wiper motor, this sucks driving in the rain. If anybody has an extra one, please for the saftey of your fellow man, let me know. Thanks Frankenstein Z

I had this problem, I bet twenty bucks its the little round flasher thing under your dash (there are two make sure you have the right one, its in the center of the dash underneath. Replaced it for 4 bucks in mine. Blink, blink and bling bling. Frankenstein Z

Hey I was curious if any body knows what a acid bath is. I heard of it online. I am not sure if that is the name though. I heard that you can wash the inside of rusty takes with an acid to get the rust out. Does any body know what I am talking about and how to do it? Frankenstein Z

I can't change the tires, because the rear are smoother than usual. But I am going to check the rotors today. Will let you know how it went. Thanks Frankenstein Z

Hey I wanted to apologize I didn't beat on the car as much as I should have. It slips in all gears. For some reason it didn't seem to the first ride. So this means that I just need to adjust the clutch. Thanks for the input, sorry again Frankenstein Z

I am getting clutch slippage in only 3rd gear, what could this be. I will start in 1st and it climbs up on the old rpm gauge fine, same with second, and then when I shift to third I get a high rev up but it is like the gear isn't completely engaged for a second. Then it is like it finally catches up with itself and begins to engage the gear. Whats this all about? FrankensteinZ Ps: pictures coming soonROFL

Alright looked through the forums and couldn't find much. My steering wheel shakes. It shakes when I am driving regularly at pretty much any speed, and it goes crazy when I am braking, (especially down from 110)ahahah. Well anyways it shakes horrible when I am braking. I know the first thing is the alignment but this almost seems like something is loose in the front end. Any ideas? Frankenstein Z

Would weight lose like that on the car really help that much? I heard it would be hard to get a 280z in the 12's let alone a 260z in the 10's. Frankenstein Z

Wanted 1972 240z wiper motor. PM me if you know where I can get one. Wipers don't work in deep snow. : ( Thanks Frankenstein Z

I posted a link on Z car dot com for norm, asking what mods he made to get a regularly aspirated, L24 into the 12's, which would be plenty for me if not over kill. I have seen the geocities website, but it didn't really post results. I didn't want to put all this work and money into the car and end up two feet away from where I started in performance. If it ends up that the z would be a waste of time in getting it to put out major performance given my wants with keeping it original; I may as well just get a v8 and make it perform. I am in no way dogging the z. I love that car almost more then my girl, but because of the way I don't want to make a major change in the z, I may have made it impossible for major performance in the z. I have considered nitrous but not until I get this engine rebuilt, I think it would be suicide to try it on this thirty year old engine without a rebuild on the books. I am still pricing the rebuild and finding out from the threads what I should do and what kinds of mods and upgrades I could make in the process. I also would like to change the cam while doing the rebuild. PS Don't ever paint your car yourself. My arms hurt so much from sanding, I couldn't tell you. Frankenstein Z

Alright here is the story I have a bunch of motor head friends all with suped up cars and my 72 240z does seem to be matched. I have read many threads on performance but they don't ever fit my specific wants. I do not want to change engines, seems to me it is stealing from the cars originality if I do that. I also do not want to change out of my Su's. Fuel injection would definitely help on performance but it would also make the z unoriginal. Turbos are also so much of a change it is almost like a new engine so I don't want to do that. I know some of this sounds weird but I want to try to keep my z as original as possible while still getting as much out of performance as possible. I am pretty much up for all other mods. Have I cut myself off from real performance or is there still a possiblility for a 12 or 13 sec car with keeping the su's and the engine. Would appreciate your info. Thanks Frankenstein Z