Samson

Sorry about not updating the thread, totally forgot about it. But the Z passed smog! My injectors were dripping aswell as the FPR. Had those replaced and aswell as the cat installed. The CO% on the 25mph barelyy passed. Max was 1.16 i measured 1.15. Phew! Close one. Couldn't have passed without any of your guys help. Thank you all!

Another Update: Installed the new EFI harness, ECU and dropping resistors all from a 76 280z. Replaced the injector connectors that were on the new harness since they were all old and dying. I'm not sure if i fixed the Rich mixture part yet given i don't have no Gas Analyzer to look at the numbers but i do have pictures of the plugs, anybody here pretty good with examining them? Much Appreciated. Here are 2 plugs side by side. Left one is the new plug how it looks right now. Also one point these plugs were installed on the car before the whole EFI electrical part was replaced, i'm not sure if that has an affect of the left over carbon fouled burn the car used to produce? Just a better picture of the new plug's burn. Thanks all! I feel like i'm getting close on fixing this problem! Also i have new fuel injectors on hand but have not installed them yet.

Update: Just got my EFI harness in aswell as the computer the other day. Found pallnet's fuel rail cheap on craigslist and picked it up, thought to myself if i'm going to be changing out the rail why not do the injectors too right? It's going to be right there anyways? So i'm still debating on that. Checked continuity on the whole harness and it all checks out ok. I have an appointment with a state referee on tuesday because in order for a shop to install a catalytic converter on the car, it needs to be signed off (i think that's pretty dumb) so at the moment i'm just going to leave the car how it is now and not touch any of the wiring till then, afraid something else may go wrong right before the appointment, missed my first appointment last tuesday because i thought i may as well change out the plugs since they're all fouled and #5 cylinder's threads decides to cross thread. FML right? I have that all sorted out now tapped the hole and installed a new insert.

My 77 is a NON-CA car therefore there is no altitude switch aswell as a catalytic converter. I now understand what you all mean thanks for the enlightment. Also went over the car today and noticed that the vacuum routing for charcoal canister dist vac port aswell as the ported vacuum switch were hooked up wrong.. from the charcoal canister it went straight to the nipple under my throttle body. Then goes Vac advance>port vacuum switch>other nipple of vacuum switch goes to this "thing" next to the egr sorry I don't know what It's called.. could this affect the mixture?

At the injector connectors on both pins it showed power when It's suppose to be power and ground, correct? Therefore its shorted somewhere in my wiring? I've noticed that my computer is also a A11-601 which is off a 78 if I'm not mistaken.. 77s should have A11-600?

Okay, Just got done talking with the shop and he said that the computer is shorted, said it was showing 12volts on both sides of the computer? Didn't really understand him.. He told me to not throw a computer in there till I redo the EFI wiring. He's not going to charge me either for Diagnostic and told me to just come pick it up..

This makes so much sense. Thank-You. Now, the FPR is also a possibility that it's adding more fuel at high engine load thus giving me a rich mixture? I was going to get an adjustable FPR (have it set at 36 psi?) and change the fuel rail to an aftermarket unit. Can't do any other tests now since i took the Z into the shop.. Denatured alcohol also came up when i was talking to some friends about having the Z pass smog, they say get the car to about 1/4 of a tank and pour a gallon of the alky in there and should pass with flying colors just pump full tank after the test to dillute the alcohol ..but idk.

Hey Denis, nope.. still haven't gotten a call from the shop. Still waiting..

I have a gauge hooked up inline with the filter it shows a about 32psi at idle. What do you mean by vacuum hosted connected to FPR? The hose from FPR is going into the intake manifold, yes.

Yes, that was the old AFM when i purchased the vehicle that it was installed already everything from post #19 to now is what the vehicle has installed now or whats been done so far. Now that i think of it my AFM connector is cruddy and old there was alot of corrosion on the terminals when i first removed it to swap the AFM i have installed now. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner and cleaned it as best as i could've. From looking at my recent smog results at 15mph it was 270 and 279 at mph. Maximum is 214 @ 15, and 181 at 25. It is indicating a low-key lean mixture or small misfire but with the CO so high in the 6% range that's also whats making it shoot so high, no? I could be wrong. Reviewed the FSM again and it just says when testing pins 3, 18 put the pedal to the floor and should show continuity, same thing if i were to do it from the throttle body right? In that case it is showing continuity. No other mods, when i have valve cover removed its stock cam shaft, one thing i did notice on the intake valve #1 the cam lobe was like gouged right at the corner i wouldnt say a massive chunk was missing but it was about a half an inch knick not in the middle of the lobe but right at the edge i should've got a picture but i totally forgot. Another "mod" the PO did was rewired the whole FI system. It's not pretty. There's tons of excess wires, but the other tests i was doing that the fuel injection bible stated for High CO were checking out OK. Except for AFM from results posted above and the TPS which i'm iffy about. Is it possible how the Fuel injectors are wired to be stuck open? I did the measurements were the voltage checks and #1-#6 all showed battery voltage.

Oops, sorry should've noted it i purchased another Reman AFM from a member on a forum it looks relatively new here are the numbers i got when i tested this AFM. From pins 6-8 i got 214, pins 7-8 i got 204 ohms pins 8-9 i got 126 ohms. Is it possible that the wiring is bad? May need new re wiring? So now it's 214/126. Also measured the Air temp sensor and it was 1514 ohms had engine warmed up for about 10 mins and the engine temp was about 100 degrees somewhere in that range. But this is measured from ambient air temperature? It was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit specs says should be 3.25 - 4.15 Product # on my AFM now is MF20090 EDIT: Checked if the CSV was leaking too, removed it from manifold started car no drips, nothing was dripping or spraying out.

Just to check in so far what i've done. Had valves adjusted, timing set, CO % at idle adjusted to about .70% had someone put a gas analyzer on it while adjusting the AFM bypass screw, i mean the car runs damn good now (well to me at least) doesn't reek of fuel idling as bad as before, EGR replaced. Took the car to get smogged again and it still failed! Only the HC's seemed like it lowered compared to last results went from 400ish to around 220 at 15mph and 25mph, still it's not the max emissions, for HC it's like 180ish.. the CO were 6% at 15mph and 25mph max is 1.36%. Went through the fuel injection bible again with the help of a member here on the forum. Did the tests for CO too high poor gas mileage, everything checks out OK, only thing that's off a little is the AFM tests they're about 20-30 ohms off. I doubt that'd have that big of a difference for the CO% to be so dang high? Tested the TPS aswell and i think i was doing it right.. for pins 3-18 at ECU connector the part throttle is that like "barely" moved? It says it should show no continuity. When i have the throttle depressed about hallways from the throttle body linkage (Pushing down) it shows continuity as it says it should for (WOT) but wouldn't it be the other way around? Throttle depressed half ways no continuity, throttle depressed ALL the way continuity? I'm pretty much stuck. Only other possible components i can think of is a leaking injector causing to pour too much fuel when car is in motion?

Yeah, i figured that spring isn't suppose to be there.. I was planning to adjust the valves cold, since i know for a fact i'd work pretty slow ha. Okay i think i feel a little more comfortable doing it now. With the remote start, from what i've been reading people say it turns over a little bit too quick? Here's a video of the car i took the other day when it was having a "fast idle"

Big throat throttle body as in the "60mm upgraded throttle body" MSA offers. Do you have a picture handy of your throttle linkage setup? I will try and remove the spring in the third photo tomorrow see how that goes. As for the whole engine bay photo this is the only engine bay photo i have when the previous owner sent to me, it's kinda blurry.. i will get updated pictures though. Just bought a valve cover gasket, feeler gauge, timing light and some sea foam. Hope to do a valve adjustment and check the timing on this car I'm new to all this ignition adjustments. Even more afraid to pull the cover off and mess with the valves. Question, when i'm adjusting the first exhaust valve (i know you're suppose to put it on TDC which allows the cam lobe to point up? Correct? So pretty much every single valve (Exhaust & Intake) i want the cam lobe pointing up to make the adjustment from #1 all the way to #6 cylinder?

Really? Hmm. Is this big throat throttle body's return spring mechanism same as a stock throttle body? The routing/placement, what is the proper way to fix this? I looked other pictures, and the spring I have thats hooked onto the intake manifold that loops over the throttle linkage shouldnt be there, correct?