Samson

Sorry about not updating the thread, totally forgot about it. But the Z passed smog! My injectors were dripping aswell as the FPR. Had those replaced and aswell as the cat installed. The CO% on the 25mph barelyy passed. Max was 1.16 i measured 1.15. Phew! Close one. Couldn't have passed without any of your guys help. Thank you all!

Another Update: Installed the new EFI harness, ECU and dropping resistors all from a 76 280z. Replaced the injector connectors that were on the new harness since they were all old and dying. I'm not sure if i fixed the Rich mixture part yet given i don't have no Gas Analyzer to look at the numbers but i do have pictures of the plugs, anybody here pretty good with examining them? Much Appreciated. Here are 2 plugs side by side. Left one is the new plug how it looks right now. Also one point these plugs were installed on the car before the whole EFI electrical part was replaced, i'm not sure if that has an affect of the left over carbon fouled burn the car used to produce? Just a better picture of the new plug's burn. Thanks all! I feel like i'm getting close on fixing this problem! Also i have new fuel injectors on hand but have not installed them yet.

Update: Just got my EFI harness in aswell as the computer the other day. Found pallnet's fuel rail cheap on craigslist and picked it up, thought to myself if i'm going to be changing out the rail why not do the injectors too right? It's going to be right there anyways? So i'm still debating on that. Checked continuity on the whole harness and it all checks out ok. I have an appointment with a state referee on tuesday because in order for a shop to install a catalytic converter on the car, it needs to be signed off (i think that's pretty dumb) so at the moment i'm just going to leave the car how it is now and not touch any of the wiring till then, afraid something else may go wrong right before the appointment, missed my first appointment last tuesday because i thought i may as well change out the plugs since they're all fouled and #5 cylinder's threads decides to cross thread. FML right? I have that all sorted out now tapped the hole and installed a new insert.

My 77 is a NON-CA car therefore there is no altitude switch aswell as a catalytic converter. I now understand what you all mean thanks for the enlightment. Also went over the car today and noticed that the vacuum routing for charcoal canister dist vac port aswell as the ported vacuum switch were hooked up wrong.. from the charcoal canister it went straight to the nipple under my throttle body. Then goes Vac advance>port vacuum switch>other nipple of vacuum switch goes to this "thing" next to the egr sorry I don't know what It's called.. could this affect the mixture?

At the injector connectors on both pins it showed power when It's suppose to be power and ground, correct? Therefore its shorted somewhere in my wiring? I've noticed that my computer is also a A11-601 which is off a 78 if I'm not mistaken.. 77s should have A11-600?

Okay, Just got done talking with the shop and he said that the computer is shorted, said it was showing 12volts on both sides of the computer? Didn't really understand him.. He told me to not throw a computer in there till I redo the EFI wiring. He's not going to charge me either for Diagnostic and told me to just come pick it up..

This makes so much sense. Thank-You. Now, the FPR is also a possibility that it's adding more fuel at high engine load thus giving me a rich mixture? I was going to get an adjustable FPR (have it set at 36 psi?) and change the fuel rail to an aftermarket unit. Can't do any other tests now since i took the Z into the shop.. Denatured alcohol also came up when i was talking to some friends about having the Z pass smog, they say get the car to about 1/4 of a tank and pour a gallon of the alky in there and should pass with flying colors just pump full tank after the test to dillute the alcohol ..but idk.

Hey Denis, nope.. still haven't gotten a call from the shop. Still waiting..

I have a gauge hooked up inline with the filter it shows a about 32psi at idle. What do you mean by vacuum hosted connected to FPR? The hose from FPR is going into the intake manifold, yes.

Yes, that was the old AFM when i purchased the vehicle that it was installed already everything from post #19 to now is what the vehicle has installed now or whats been done so far. Now that i think of it my AFM connector is cruddy and old there was alot of corrosion on the terminals when i first removed it to swap the AFM i have installed now. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner and cleaned it as best as i could've. From looking at my recent smog results at 15mph it was 270 and 279 at mph. Maximum is 214 @ 15, and 181 at 25. It is indicating a low-key lean mixture or small misfire but with the CO so high in the 6% range that's also whats making it shoot so high, no? I could be wrong. Reviewed the FSM again and it just says when testing pins 3, 18 put the pedal to the floor and should show continuity, same thing if i were to do it from the throttle body right? In that case it is showing continuity. No other mods, when i have valve cover removed its stock cam shaft, one thing i did notice on the intake valve #1 the cam lobe was like gouged right at the corner i wouldnt say a massive chunk was missing but it was about a half an inch knick not in the middle of the lobe but right at the edge i should've got a picture but i totally forgot. Another "mod" the PO did was rewired the whole FI system. It's not pretty. There's tons of excess wires, but the other tests i was doing that the fuel injection bible stated for High CO were checking out OK. Except for AFM from results posted above and the TPS which i'm iffy about. Is it possible how the Fuel injectors are wired to be stuck open? I did the measurements were the voltage checks and #1-#6 all showed battery voltage.

Oops, sorry should've noted it i purchased another Reman AFM from a member on a forum it looks relatively new here are the numbers i got when i tested this AFM. From pins 6-8 i got 214, pins 7-8 i got 204 ohms pins 8-9 i got 126 ohms. Is it possible that the wiring is bad? May need new re wiring? So now it's 214/126. Also measured the Air temp sensor and it was 1514 ohms had engine warmed up for about 10 mins and the engine temp was about 100 degrees somewhere in that range. But this is measured from ambient air temperature? It was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit specs says should be 3.25 - 4.15 Product # on my AFM now is MF20090 EDIT: Checked if the CSV was leaking too, removed it from manifold started car no drips, nothing was dripping or spraying out.

Just to check in so far what i've done. Had valves adjusted, timing set, CO % at idle adjusted to about .70% had someone put a gas analyzer on it while adjusting the AFM bypass screw, i mean the car runs damn good now (well to me at least) doesn't reek of fuel idling as bad as before, EGR replaced. Took the car to get smogged again and it still failed! Only the HC's seemed like it lowered compared to last results went from 400ish to around 220 at 15mph and 25mph, still it's not the max emissions, for HC it's like 180ish.. the CO were 6% at 15mph and 25mph max is 1.36%. Went through the fuel injection bible again with the help of a member here on the forum. Did the tests for CO too high poor gas mileage, everything checks out OK, only thing that's off a little is the AFM tests they're about 20-30 ohms off. I doubt that'd have that big of a difference for the CO% to be so dang high? Tested the TPS aswell and i think i was doing it right.. for pins 3-18 at ECU connector the part throttle is that like "barely" moved? It says it should show no continuity. When i have the throttle depressed about hallways from the throttle body linkage (Pushing down) it shows continuity as it says it should for (WOT) but wouldn't it be the other way around? Throttle depressed half ways no continuity, throttle depressed ALL the way continuity? I'm pretty much stuck. Only other possible components i can think of is a leaking injector causing to pour too much fuel when car is in motion?

Yeah, i figured that spring isn't suppose to be there.. I was planning to adjust the valves cold, since i know for a fact i'd work pretty slow ha. Okay i think i feel a little more comfortable doing it now. With the remote start, from what i've been reading people say it turns over a little bit too quick? Here's a video of the car i took the other day when it was having a "fast idle"

Big throat throttle body as in the "60mm upgraded throttle body" MSA offers. Do you have a picture handy of your throttle linkage setup? I will try and remove the spring in the third photo tomorrow see how that goes. As for the whole engine bay photo this is the only engine bay photo i have when the previous owner sent to me, it's kinda blurry.. i will get updated pictures though. Just bought a valve cover gasket, feeler gauge, timing light and some sea foam. Hope to do a valve adjustment and check the timing on this car I'm new to all this ignition adjustments. Even more afraid to pull the cover off and mess with the valves. Question, when i'm adjusting the first exhaust valve (i know you're suppose to put it on TDC which allows the cam lobe to point up? Correct? So pretty much every single valve (Exhaust & Intake) i want the cam lobe pointing up to make the adjustment from #1 all the way to #6 cylinder?

Really? Hmm. Is this big throat throttle body's return spring mechanism same as a stock throttle body? The routing/placement, what is the proper way to fix this? I looked other pictures, and the spring I have thats hooked onto the intake manifold that loops over the throttle linkage shouldnt be there, correct?

Okay guys, was able to mess with the z for about a half an hour today and i think i found the problem to the fast idle it was having. The throttle is sticking! Just to note this is not the stock throttle body, the PO had installed the 60mm throttle body, there is a spacer that's suppose to go in between the throttle body and intake manifold but i had that removed because that was blocking off the AAR hose that goes into the throttle body so i don't see how that was suppose to work? Unless it was designed like that? .. I noticed when i would hit the throttle the Pivot ball looking thing on the throttle linkage it would not go back "all the way up" There is some play from the throttle body and the throttle linkage. If i would hit the throttle it would go normal but after i let go it would stick and stay at around 1400 RPM, If i fiddled with the Pivot ball thing moving it up very slightly and the idle would drop back down to 900-1000. The idle adjustment screw seems to have fixed it self or something because it seems like it still has some turns that'd drop the idle slightly, but if i started turning it in more i would hear weird noises, i may need a valve adjustment? Also filled in that small leak between throttle body and intake manifold with some RTV ain't the best looking but it seemed like it worked. I have some pictures attached of the linkage... How would i go about fixing this? Or is there adjustments to be made.. Thanks all!

Okay, well I haven't messed with the AFM whatever the previous owner had it at I just left it and installed. The idle adjustment screw has been adjusted, its pretty much turned all the way in with no more adjustment available, as for the TPS I have not adjusted that given I don't know how, ha. I know there's a write up on atlanticz. I hear many people wire in a potentiometer into the WTS, what if I did that and lean out the mixture? I have a 5k pot I purchased. Thanks for the response.

Sorry for the long awaited response but i finally had some time to work on the car within the week, and i got the car to fire up! Re did the fuel pump wiring, traced the wiring back from the fuel injection relay back under the passenger seat where the wires were snipped, routed the fuel pump wires back into the car and wired the wires accordingly. Removed the "hot wired" fuel pump wire and turned the key over and she fired up! The voltmeter in car kept fluctuating, got my DVOM and measured the alternators output and got a wopping 11.35 Volts! that is not good. Bad alternator so i had to get that swapped out changed the belt aswell because that was in horrible condition. Now reads at around 14.35 Volts. Drained coolant, replaced thermostat and gasket went to retighten bolts and the damn things stripped, but i didn't notice it at that point in time i had my buddy's 78 AFM that he let me borrow on, start the car seemed to idle at around 1300 then slowly started dropping to around 8-900 or so.. but after car would reach operating temp coolant would shoot out the thermostat cover, so i had to helicoil the threads now they're good as new. I definitely think the AFM that came with this car was no good if it was able to run "okay" with my buddies on. Didn't get to use my buddy's AFM this time because i had done returned it, but a AFM i bought off a member on another forum came in and i had that installed. Put a fuel pressure gauge on, vacuum gauge, started her up once more. Idle's at around 1500-1700 and stays like that through the whole way pretty much even after operating temp is reached. Fuel pressure gauge shows around 31-34 psi it fluctuates tho, but when i rev it shoots up to around 40 psi. Vacuum gauge shows a steady 20-21in HG. I did notice there is a very VERY small leak between the throttle body and intake manifold it's like comparable to the diameter of a toothpick. When i turn the vehicle off the fuel pressure would slowly decline to 0. Whats the deal with that? Also, when i would snap the throttle a puff of black smoke would shoot out so i'm guessing it's still running rich? Sorry about the long story!

Hmm okay, I will try to bypass the ignition but I mean the car did turn over about a month ago just not doing it now since after I changed all the stuff.. at one point the car turned over but at super fast idle and it died, noticed a super loud hissing noise aswell. My afm has that fuel cutoff switch if I move counter weight i can hear a click

Okay, so i got the fuel pump to kick on, to find out the power wires from the fuel pump were snipped and the Previous owner just got about a 16 gauge wire and ran it from the pump all the way to the front of the car to the inside fuse box and had it wrapped around the AC fuse i believe it's the air conditioner or fuel gauge. Fiddled with that and changed that fuse and wah-lah the pump kicked on. Now, the car still doesn't want to turn over. I know it should be getting spark because the plugs are new aswell as the wires.. Also, What would be a correct way to wire the fuel pump? Thanks

I will definately try that. The last time it had this same issue i remember checking the oil dipstick and it was dry that was about a month ago when i first bought the car i did a simple oil change and that seemed to fix the problem. This time i know there should be enough oil in the car by the dipstick because it's full. ? Note: The volt meter in the dash is also unstable.. the light will flicker and the needle will bounce. Could it be possible that the battery is ka-poot? I did test the battery it showed about 12.46 volts and did a crank test and it was at around 10.46 volts

Okay, so the car has been sitting for about a month since last i've started it. Today, i've replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, replaced majority of vacuum hoses, aswell as the radiator hoses, replaced the AAR connector, CSV connector, and WTS connector and i've added a maxi fused block as a replacement for the fusible links that were SUPPOSED to be there but the previous owner for whatever reason decided splice all (4) white red stripe wires to the (4) white power wires having it not fused i didn't like this so i added the fuse block. Anyways onto the problem now. The car doesn't start no more this has happened before i don't hear the fuel pump kicking on the car will attempt to turn over but no sound of fuel going in, but at one point there pump kicked on for a couple of seconds but it went off. What can it be now? Thanks

Okay, so I've finally had the time to work on the Z again i did the measurement pin 8 & 6 at the afm an it was about 183-187ohms around there so that's within specs right? As for 8 & 9 it was around 105-120 ohms.. hard to get a reading on those stupid pins..

I agree with your post. I'll get some measurements tomorrow, I sure hope I don't have to change out all the wiring.. the PO did redo all the EFI wiring though, but its half assed work. There are tons of excess wiring on the driver side footwell, looks like a rat's nest. Also, about vacuum leaks.. I do remember there was this hissing noise comming from the brake booster area, like between egr valve and brake booster somewhere are there.. is this normal?

I've removed the AFM the other day and cleaned up the connections, and i did look at the atlanticz AFM adjustment article but i was too afraid to start tampering with the wheel, but it looks "untampered" with that blob of glue looks factory on it. What i did notice though was that the bypass screw on the AFM was backed all the way in, i did try to "tune" the screw backing out and in but it doesn't really make MUCH of a difference. Car just idles horribly, and if i were to try and rev it, the engine would just cut off. I've also cleaned the TPS contacts already aswell. The distributor cap has been replaced. Is it possible that the PCV hose or valve itself maybe causing the problem? When i removed the valve it had tons of crud all over it. Edit: Just to note i did take the car thinking it'd pass smog a week or two ago.. here were the #'s that lead to the obviously rich condition HC was measured at 405 max is 214, CO measured 5.49 @ 15mph. The 25mph test for HC it measured 435, max: is 181. CO measured 7.53 max is 1.16. Just thought it'd give a better idea..