nwa240z

My plan is to put this all back together....

I call BS unless you send Craig the info AND he verifys it's Brian from Scarab. David Scarab #154

Nice find, quick work. I may have to come up your way some time soon and see it for myself. I'll bring the Scarab up from Rogers, AR. David

If you're really serious I could have one built for you. Please PM me for more information. This is not cheap to do nor will shipping be cheap. We'll start with a 1972 or 1973 bumper, have it straightend, holes welded (filled) then rechromed. What year car will it be going on? Need to know what brackets you'll need, probably the early brackets. I figure, with out calling for quotes, the bumper, brackets, straghtening, shipping to the plater, then to you, roughly $700-$900. Just an estimate at this point. Shipping is the killer!!! I've got those on the front and rear of my Scarab.

Oh I though you just needed a a faint pulse.

Read his initial post again, this was his first Z car so there might be some attachment to it. I say go for it. Must agree with the own your own garage!!! First thing find a shop that can do media blasting and metal work if you cannot do these things yourself. Look for restoration shops talk to hot rodders in your area for referals. Avg shop rates in my area run about $50 to $75 per hour for the work.

That car is HLS30-00248 it belongs to my friend Bryan that lives down the road from me. I can vouch for the car as it is completely restored with all the glass in it now. Has A/C too! Here is a link to some in progress pics. First class build all the way!!! Flawless paint!!! http://dat240zg.googlepages.com/datsun240zhls000248 http://www.thehackshack.net/240z.htm

I know this will sound really silly but did you accidently switch the lines from front to rear when you replaced the master cylinder?

I don't have mine mounted on the car but I bought mine here. Normal ZG flairs. http://www.classicdatsun.com/ For the super wide flairs you can get them here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132597

+1 for Classic Datsun http://www.classicdatsun.com/

Here is more info per a member request. The cars suspension is full poly kit (Energy Suspension) with front LCA spacers to correct geometry. Tokico springs and adjustable Illumina struts. The ride is reasonablly stiff. On a recent drive around the freeways around Tulsa, it was not a pleasant experience because the roads around there are really rough. On better maintained roads the cars ride is very predictable and stable. At higher speed the car settles into its grove and loves to run fast, very fast. HSDE are blast if I don't split hoses and throw belts (my bad). The car is lowered via the Tokico springs. The front tires do not rub. Tire size is 225-50-16. Rears are 225-50-16. They do rub due to this being a series one car which placed the wheel in the more forward position in the wheel well. This was a known issue and Datsun changed the rear end configuration in 1973. To eliminate or lessen the rubbing issue I took a grinder and shaved the inner fender to the spot welds then gently massaged the inner fender with a hammer with out distorting the metal. Although this helped it did not eliminate the problem. I am going to attack the issue again after I resolve a wiring problem this weekend. Wheels are Panasports from Motor Sports purchased by the prior owner. 16X7" The car has a few items that make it look "different" from other 240's you'll notice the bumpers are smooth, no over rider bars or bumperettes. These are commonly refered to as California bumbers or euro bumpers. They take a standard thin bumper fill the holes with metal then rechrome the bumpers and do not add any bump strips etc. Next the car has a louvered hood and inspection lids. These were Scarab options but also avaliable from Motor Sports at one time (may still be avaliabe). Next the car has clear side markers and clear front turn signals (avaliable from Too Intense Restorations). Next all the window trim is blacked out as well as the door handles and key locks these little touches give the car a clean fresh look. The red stripes on the car are called "rookie stripes" which I kept when I sold my Factory Five roadster (Shelby Cobra) they are removeable and let cars on the track during HSDE know that you are not familiar with the track. The vintage Castrol decals also came from my roadster and are removeable. By the way I work for Castrol Lubricants so it's a natural fit on the car for me. The Original "Datsun" fender logos have been replaced by the "Scarab" logos in black and of course the original Scarab medallion is affixed on the sail panel. This is a pretty good idea of how low the car sits

The color is a GM stock white, if you shoot me a PM I'll dig out the color code and get back with you. I've run the Tokico's and MS springs and like the Tokicos better as far as stiffness, they are plenty stiff. I am running the Illumina struts that are adjustable so just crank them to 5 if you want firm/stiff + quick rebounding. The tires are 50 series so side walls fill out the wheel wells nicely if you go to a 40 or 45 series you'll be losing the sidewall that fills in the wheel well. If you have a stock height car a 40 series tire will not look correct, it will look like a lifted 4x4 with stock tires and wheel if that makes sense. Here is a compairison between a the Panasport 16X7 with 225-50-16 and a Sport Maxx 16X8 245-50-16 245-50-16 on car (not the same car I've got 3 of these darn white 240's)

Here is a quick pic of the Scarab. She is a 1971 with Tokico springs and Illumina struts. Whees are Panasports from Motorsports with 225-50-16 Dunlops. They rub in the rear due to the rear end setting in the more "forward" position. Additionally the zero offset wheel was not correct for the cars with the rear wheels in the forward position. Motorsports and Panasport corrected this issue by making newer wheels with a +4 spacing to bring the wheel a bit more inboard. My solution to the problem was to lightly grind the inner fender lip down and then massage it gently with a hammer until it was clearanced for the tire. Works ok but could use a bit more. I didn't want to get carried away. No issues in the front what so ever.

I totally understand the idealology behind the hosting/dead image links but photobucket has been around for quite some time and feel that it is a safe idea in my opinoin. If it's a tech write up with valuable picture links, host here. If it's just another car show well you get my point. Is the above image one that somebody is going to treasure for years to come? Proabably not. If I'm in a hurry trying to reply to somebody with a picture of what they are looking for, well again quick and easy for a win-win. I think the real issue of dead links is that there are so many copy and paste folks out there (I've done it myself) they grab a pic off the net, post it and months later it's gone. If you manage your account (I manage my photo bucket account) then your original links won't disappear. Again, I understand the idea of hosting the pics here on classiczcars, I was asked to do so when I first bought the Scarab, I did not do it and my onclickpix account (which I paid for) went A-W-A-Y. Poof gone. Yeah that sucked, luckliy I have all the original pics but they no longer are on my posts. I'm easy enough to find though if anybody needs Scarab information or pictures. David

Go to photobucket.com open an account, upload your photos then copy and post them here like this. The photo bucket account if free and it's easy because it puts the image tag line line ( http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h167/twin_z_dad/Midwest%20Z%20fest%2008/100_5295.jpg' alt='100_5295.jpg'>