nwa240z

My plan is to put this all back together....

I call BS unless you send Craig the info AND he verifys it's Brian from Scarab. David Scarab #154

Nice find, quick work. I may have to come up your way some time soon and see it for myself. I'll bring the Scarab up from Rogers, AR. David

If you're really serious I could have one built for you. Please PM me for more information. This is not cheap to do nor will shipping be cheap. We'll start with a 1972 or 1973 bumper, have it straightend, holes welded (filled) then rechromed. What year car will it be going on? Need to know what brackets you'll need, probably the early brackets. I figure, with out calling for quotes, the bumper, brackets, straghtening, shipping to the plater, then to you, roughly $700-$900. Just an estimate at this point. Shipping is the killer!!! I've got those on the front and rear of my Scarab.

Oh I though you just needed a a faint pulse.

Read his initial post again, this was his first Z car so there might be some attachment to it. I say go for it. Must agree with the own your own garage!!! First thing find a shop that can do media blasting and metal work if you cannot do these things yourself. Look for restoration shops talk to hot rodders in your area for referals. Avg shop rates in my area run about $50 to $75 per hour for the work.

That car is HLS30-00248 it belongs to my friend Bryan that lives down the road from me. I can vouch for the car as it is completely restored with all the glass in it now. Has A/C too! Here is a link to some in progress pics. First class build all the way!!! Flawless paint!!! http://dat240zg.googlepages.com/datsun240zhls000248 http://www.thehackshack.net/240z.htm

I know this will sound really silly but did you accidently switch the lines from front to rear when you replaced the master cylinder?

I don't have mine mounted on the car but I bought mine here. Normal ZG flairs. http://www.classicdatsun.com/ For the super wide flairs you can get them here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132597

+1 for Classic Datsun http://www.classicdatsun.com/

Here is more info per a member request. The cars suspension is full poly kit (Energy Suspension) with front LCA spacers to correct geometry. Tokico springs and adjustable Illumina struts. The ride is reasonablly stiff. On a recent drive around the freeways around Tulsa, it was not a pleasant experience because the roads around there are really rough. On better maintained roads the cars ride is very predictable and stable. At higher speed the car settles into its grove and loves to run fast, very fast. HSDE are blast if I don't split hoses and throw belts (my bad). The car is lowered via the Tokico springs. The front tires do not rub. Tire size is 225-50-16. Rears are 225-50-16. They do rub due to this being a series one car which placed the wheel in the more forward position in the wheel well. This was a known issue and Datsun changed the rear end configuration in 1973. To eliminate or lessen the rubbing issue I took a grinder and shaved the inner fender to the spot welds then gently massaged the inner fender with a hammer with out distorting the metal. Although this helped it did not eliminate the problem. I am going to attack the issue again after I resolve a wiring problem this weekend. Wheels are Panasports from Motor Sports purchased by the prior owner. 16X7" The car has a few items that make it look "different" from other 240's you'll notice the bumpers are smooth, no over rider bars or bumperettes. These are commonly refered to as California bumbers or euro bumpers. They take a standard thin bumper fill the holes with metal then rechrome the bumpers and do not add any bump strips etc. Next the car has a louvered hood and inspection lids. These were Scarab options but also avaliable from Motor Sports at one time (may still be avaliabe). Next the car has clear side markers and clear front turn signals (avaliable from Too Intense Restorations). Next all the window trim is blacked out as well as the door handles and key locks these little touches give the car a clean fresh look. The red stripes on the car are called "rookie stripes" which I kept when I sold my Factory Five roadster (Shelby Cobra) they are removeable and let cars on the track during HSDE know that you are not familiar with the track. The vintage Castrol decals also came from my roadster and are removeable. By the way I work for Castrol Lubricants so it's a natural fit on the car for me. The Original "Datsun" fender logos have been replaced by the "Scarab" logos in black and of course the original Scarab medallion is affixed on the sail panel. This is a pretty good idea of how low the car sits

The color is a GM stock white, if you shoot me a PM I'll dig out the color code and get back with you. I've run the Tokico's and MS springs and like the Tokicos better as far as stiffness, they are plenty stiff. I am running the Illumina struts that are adjustable so just crank them to 5 if you want firm/stiff + quick rebounding. The tires are 50 series so side walls fill out the wheel wells nicely if you go to a 40 or 45 series you'll be losing the sidewall that fills in the wheel well. If you have a stock height car a 40 series tire will not look correct, it will look like a lifted 4x4 with stock tires and wheel if that makes sense. Here is a compairison between a the Panasport 16X7 with 225-50-16 and a Sport Maxx 16X8 245-50-16 245-50-16 on car (not the same car I've got 3 of these darn white 240's)

Here is a quick pic of the Scarab. She is a 1971 with Tokico springs and Illumina struts. Whees are Panasports from Motorsports with 225-50-16 Dunlops. They rub in the rear due to the rear end setting in the more "forward" position. Additionally the zero offset wheel was not correct for the cars with the rear wheels in the forward position. Motorsports and Panasport corrected this issue by making newer wheels with a +4 spacing to bring the wheel a bit more inboard. My solution to the problem was to lightly grind the inner fender lip down and then massage it gently with a hammer until it was clearanced for the tire. Works ok but could use a bit more. I didn't want to get carried away. No issues in the front what so ever.

A fuel pressue guage? Is that what your wanting? A pillar guage pod you want is from a First gen miata 90-98 auto meter part number 20660 img from gearheadstik Before heatgun and trimming After heatgun and trimming Installed

I've got the 120 speedo in the Scarab along with tach, water, fuel and oil pressure.

Here is the part number for the OEM fender, sorry didn't write down which was left and which was right because I need both. 63100-N4700 63101-N4700 Last check they were $253 each (three years ago.)

Yes Scarab allowed you to bring in your car and have it modified by them, mine was owned by a dentist in CA, he brought it in to have the conversion done. Valve covers are very rare indeed, but the Scarab valve covers don't clear modern valve trains, i.e. bigger roller rockers, trust me I tried as did the former owner of my valve covers. The valve covers he has on the car look exactally like the ones that came with my car when I bought it, they're HEAVY guage aluminum to dampen noise, Scarab may have used those (or just a coincidence that we have the same covers???) on the higher performance engines or if they were out of stock on the Scarab/Edelbrock covers. Scarab registry is not on line, Craig Sparks keeps track of the cars as they surface, plus you gotta know the secret hand shake, just kidding. BTW my car is a 71Z HLS3012297 Here is a pic of the covers my car came with:

I used your reseach coupled with Craig Sparks knowledge, old company brochures and magazine articles (from the 80's) to make my case on these cars. If it's Scarab related, Craig and I try to aquire it. I've scored him an original set of FIA calipers for his car and sourced him rebuid kits for the calipers too. He's sent me company litarature and an additonal set of Scarab lettering he had custom made from the original pieces. We work together, I've tracked down a few cars then hand off the info to him. He attempts contact with the owners and adds them to the Scarab registry. Go to zhome.com and on the left side menu additional Scarab information can be found.

Carl, I was not the first or second owner of the blue car. I am the third owner of #154. I do not have the original paperwork for the car however the second owner lives down the street from me, brought the car to Arkansas from California. He bought the car from the original owner after it was stored for several years. The blue 153, was it an original Scarab? Well according to Craig Sparks who is the most knowledgeable resource that I know of on the Scarab cars says yes. Then WHY are there 2 cars #153? That is the question. Craig has always told me there were 2 cars with the number 153, I’ve know this all along. What says it IS a Scarab. Let’s dissect the car on eBay. Exterior Louvered hood and inspection lids BBS 3 piece wheels Correct mirrors Blacked out trim Scarab emblems on sail panel (only available from the factory) 3 piece rear spoiler Scarab lettering on lower fenders and rear spoiler Interior Recaro seats Tuck and roll door panels Momo steering wheel EGT/Boost gauge Glove box door emblem Door jamb data plate I’d love to see under the carpet because Scarab put a LOT of sound deadening in their cars. Now an important piece if you look at the under car pics, the one labeled FLOORS, look at the rear differential, there a piece of C shaped metal holding the differential nose down. Now if this is a “knock off” car, somebody went to great lengths to duplicate a factory car but screwed up when they gave it SN 153. I’m sticking by my guns on this one calling it real, as does Craig, he has educated me on these cars quite a bit. How knowledgeable is Craig? Last month my clutch slave went out, I called and asked him what part I needed. He spouts off “The slave you need is for a 1974 Datsun B210 with a 4 speed, don’t get the one for an automatic because the bleeder is on the bottom you need the one from a 4 speed.” I was impressed.

OK after reading the ad for the 10th time (ebay) he put a 5 speed in the car, thus he used different engine mounts (setback) and what looks to be a JTR tranny X member and hood latch (GOOD EYE there!). So basically he took the Scarab and put in a JTR setback conversion. Is it a still a real Scarab? Yes. Is it the proper set up/period correct? No What's it worth? Whatever somebody is willing to pay.

The original airdams were made of fiberglass and you know what happens to fiberglass when you curb it, it breaks. The typical replacement was a MSA urathane (sp) part. My car came with blacked out window moldings, I don't know what mirror emblems your refering to however those are the correct mirrors for a Scarab (my car does not have these) BBS wheels where original equipment from Scarab, guages(?) it does have the original SCARAB logo on the turbo guage so it's a Scarab part, mesh head rests are attached to RECARO seats, that's the way they came back in the day. Dents in the rocker panels, I'm guessing he ment "frame rails" which typically get dented from jacking up the car. I know you've done your home work on these cars before!!! My Scarab #154 If you look closely you can see the mesh headrests Never heard of that one... Another "plausable" explanation is that there was a mistake at the engravers shop who made the ID badges. Nobody has brought that up as of yet.

The one on e-bay is not a fake!!! There are 2 cars numbered #153. It was a mistake on Scarab's part Blue Scarab 153 build date 2/28/79 Red Scarab 153 build date 6/1x/79 White Scarab 154 build date 6/21/79 (mine) I'm guessing the time lapse between the blue and red car (4 months) was sufficient time to lose paperwork/not check the proceeding cars Scarab number. Again the car is real. As the seller states though the engine and transmission have been replaced but are period correct. The radiator and fan are not original Scarab. I believe he does have the original Scarab valve covers (rare!). I've tried to take mine back to as original as possible. It still retains the original engine (bow tie block) and angle plug heads. I replaced the radiator with an original NOS Scarab unit that dat240zg found in Texas and sold to me. I've also replaced the springs and struts with Tokico springsand replacing the original struts with adjustable Illuminas. I also rebuilt the original FIA calipers using NOS Datsun rebuild kits, one caliper piston was replaced due to damage while taking it apart. I still have one rebuild kit and 3 pistons on the shelf, just in case.

Where did you source your G-nose from???

The Arizona Z car brake kit fits under the 16" wheel. Proof

Super job on the interview and on the car!!! I caught the last of the interview, it was only 1:40 long? Guess I didn't miss much wish it was longer.