ihiryu

76 280Z, so non-replacable. Zed Head, I got her on the lift earlier, u joints had grease residue coming out of them, with the ebrake down, I was able to rotate it on the lift and could see the shaft moving up and down. It's either the driveshaft or the rear end. (Un)fortunately I'm going to pull the motor tomorrow anyway for my RB20 swap, since tomorrow is the only time I'll be able to have the lift for myself.

Ha ha, I went ahead and ordered a new aluminum one piece driveshaft. Might as well do it now then put in my RB and kill it later and with more damage. I don't know what else I should replace while I'm there though, shaft should be here Thursday

Thanks for the replies guys, so here is the update. So I made it home and this morning I jacked up the rear of the car, and spun each rear wheel only to hear a slight clunk noise. Jacked up the other side, and same clunk noise. I took a peek underneath and saw my propeller shaft spinning, but it was off center. So I'm thinking my propeller shaft (transmission to differential) has gone bad. A little research online shows that you can't replace the u-joints in the Z's driveshaft. I don't have a lift available to me at the moment (two cars stuck on our lifts to get work finished up). So does anyone know about if there's anything else I should look out for? Or do I just need to order a new propeller shaft?

I still have my original A/C stuff, so I just need the evaporator. VA doesn't seem to include the control panels though. I think that's a pretty solid idea with the fresh air vent though.

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has used the Old Air A/C kit? I hate to say it, but it seems like is a much better deal than the Vintage Air kit. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/custom-street-rod-ac-units/700800-series-ac-systems-c-30000000_32000000_37000000.html The kits seem to be a better buy than the VA units. What do you guys think? I was thinking about using the IP-800HC.

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I'll check all this Monday morning when I get to work. Zed Head, sorry the spacers are wheel spacers. I didn't have a lug wrench on me.

So right before I get on the highway my car had a strange vibration, I figured it was the road. As I got onto the highway it got worse, and something didn't feel right at all. At sixty miles an hour the vibration was terrible, and the faster I went the worse it got. I pulled over (it was night and hard to see) but I took a peek underneath and nothing seemed amiss. No driveshaft hanging, no axles hanging, nothing weird. Checked the lug nuts, and visually inspected spacers (everything looked flush against the rotor). The vibration seems like it comes from the rear. Any ideas to check guys?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46899.html I was thinking about doing this, but I'm worried that mine maybe bypassed or something like that. Another reason why I was looking into removing my heater

I've poured through the manual already to see if I could find anything. All the cables are working, but water just isn't flowing into the heater core. The hoses at the firewall are there, and I can only see one hose coming out of the firewall on the inside (being block by the vacuum water ****). This heater design is so silly. I think I may try to convert into a newer water ****. I've read the thread from Captain Obvious, and he used (from what he believes) is a 2000 Acura TL. I wanted to maybe try that first, but the aftermarket heater units are only two hundred bucks.

Okay guys, I'm having a predicament. My A/C works, but my defroster, and heater no longer works. I've taken what I can apart and can't seem to find out what's wrong. My plan is to remove the heater core, and misc. heater parts. My plans are going to install a universal heater, such as http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991106/?rtype=1 Or the Flex-A-Lite Mojave unit. But has anyone done anything like this before? I know people usually do it backwards (removing A/C leaving heater). -Steve

I found mine, the fuse I have (20a) is a bit too long. After removing the wiring, center console, and finisher plate and looking at the wiring, I found I had no power at the blower motor. I traced it back to the fuse, which at that point had no power. I figured it would be corrosion on the fuse box, anyway, checked power at the base of the fuse, and there was power. The moment my test light touched the other end of the fuse, the blower came on. So yeah, my problem is because the fuse is too long, I moved it back a hair and it's been working fine.

I'm encountering the same problem on my 76 280Z, does anyone have the same pics? I took at the diagram, but it's done in a weird way, seems like certain wires change color in between plugs, and the junction plugs are kinda confusing. My light still lights up for the control panel though, and I checked for power at the fuses (which it has).

I really dig it! What did you use for the fender rubber?

Mine does a weird shaking when I brake coming from the rear. It didn't happen until I did my lowering springs and struts. I took a look at the drums and couldn't find anything

Yeah......I figured it'd be easy too, but lo and behold, drop the tank