ihiryu

76 280Z, so non-replacable. Zed Head, I got her on the lift earlier, u joints had grease residue coming out of them, with the ebrake down, I was able to rotate it on the lift and could see the shaft moving up and down. It's either the driveshaft or the rear end. (Un)fortunately I'm going to pull the motor tomorrow anyway for my RB20 swap, since tomorrow is the only time I'll be able to have the lift for myself.

Ha ha, I went ahead and ordered a new aluminum one piece driveshaft. Might as well do it now then put in my RB and kill it later and with more damage. I don't know what else I should replace while I'm there though, shaft should be here Thursday

Thanks for the replies guys, so here is the update. So I made it home and this morning I jacked up the rear of the car, and spun each rear wheel only to hear a slight clunk noise. Jacked up the other side, and same clunk noise. I took a peek underneath and saw my propeller shaft spinning, but it was off center. So I'm thinking my propeller shaft (transmission to differential) has gone bad. A little research online shows that you can't replace the u-joints in the Z's driveshaft. I don't have a lift available to me at the moment (two cars stuck on our lifts to get work finished up). So does anyone know about if there's anything else I should look out for? Or do I just need to order a new propeller shaft?

I still have my original A/C stuff, so I just need the evaporator. VA doesn't seem to include the control panels though. I think that's a pretty solid idea with the fresh air vent though.

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has used the Old Air A/C kit? I hate to say it, but it seems like is a much better deal than the Vintage Air kit. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/custom-street-rod-ac-units/700800-series-ac-systems-c-30000000_32000000_37000000.html The kits seem to be a better buy than the VA units. What do you guys think? I was thinking about using the IP-800HC.

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I'll check all this Monday morning when I get to work. Zed Head, sorry the spacers are wheel spacers. I didn't have a lug wrench on me.

So right before I get on the highway my car had a strange vibration, I figured it was the road. As I got onto the highway it got worse, and something didn't feel right at all. At sixty miles an hour the vibration was terrible, and the faster I went the worse it got. I pulled over (it was night and hard to see) but I took a peek underneath and nothing seemed amiss. No driveshaft hanging, no axles hanging, nothing weird. Checked the lug nuts, and visually inspected spacers (everything looked flush against the rotor). The vibration seems like it comes from the rear. Any ideas to check guys?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46899.html I was thinking about doing this, but I'm worried that mine maybe bypassed or something like that. Another reason why I was looking into removing my heater

I've poured through the manual already to see if I could find anything. All the cables are working, but water just isn't flowing into the heater core. The hoses at the firewall are there, and I can only see one hose coming out of the firewall on the inside (being block by the vacuum water ****). This heater design is so silly. I think I may try to convert into a newer water ****. I've read the thread from Captain Obvious, and he used (from what he believes) is a 2000 Acura TL. I wanted to maybe try that first, but the aftermarket heater units are only two hundred bucks.

Okay guys, I'm having a predicament. My A/C works, but my defroster, and heater no longer works. I've taken what I can apart and can't seem to find out what's wrong. My plan is to remove the heater core, and misc. heater parts. My plans are going to install a universal heater, such as http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991106/?rtype=1 Or the Flex-A-Lite Mojave unit. But has anyone done anything like this before? I know people usually do it backwards (removing A/C leaving heater). -Steve

I found mine, the fuse I have (20a) is a bit too long. After removing the wiring, center console, and finisher plate and looking at the wiring, I found I had no power at the blower motor. I traced it back to the fuse, which at that point had no power. I figured it would be corrosion on the fuse box, anyway, checked power at the base of the fuse, and there was power. The moment my test light touched the other end of the fuse, the blower came on. So yeah, my problem is because the fuse is too long, I moved it back a hair and it's been working fine.

I'm encountering the same problem on my 76 280Z, does anyone have the same pics? I took at the diagram, but it's done in a weird way, seems like certain wires change color in between plugs, and the junction plugs are kinda confusing. My light still lights up for the control panel though, and I checked for power at the fuses (which it has).

I really dig it! What did you use for the fender rubber?

Mine does a weird shaking when I brake coming from the rear. It didn't happen until I did my lowering springs and struts. I took a look at the drums and couldn't find anything

Yeah......I figured it'd be easy too, but lo and behold, drop the tank

SOLVED!! Guys I want to thank everyone so much for giving me a hand. Ultimately I found this out via search, but still I was dumbfounded on what to find. Corrosion was actually building up on my front and rear turn signal sockets. I never removed the bulbs (since I've only had the car a few weeks and they were working). Took some electrical cleaner to them, and all is well. Hazard comes on without blowing the bulb. Everything works....too bad I butchered up my turn signal switch (trying to clean it) before I figured it out

You are totally right, I just broke mine just now, the tab (that holds the wires to the turn signal part) broke off and I can secure the wires to it anymore....great

I removed it cleaned it up, and nothing. I cleaned it with aerosol electronics cleaner. I smelled the hazard switch and it had a slight burnt smell to it, but nothing on the inside seemed bad. I tested it as described in the FSM (pretty checking continuity) and it passed it. I replaced the fuse, and same thing. I was able to get the hazard to click on for a few seconds, but I wasn't able to inspect it on the outside before the fuse blew. I have my PLH that came in today, I was going to go ahead and install it today and take out the turn signal switch too and try to see if I can clean it up or something.

E, Thanks for your help. The smoke only came out when I plugged in the new flasher (which I just grabbed one from the autoparts store). I've already removed the steering column cover and can't find where the smoke came from. The wires look intact and none of the covering has been burnt off. I can clearly smell it from the turn signal switch. I've already put the original flasher back in, and back to how it was before (left turn only, no right, weird buzzing from the original flasher when I switch it to right turn signal, no hazards). I'm going to send my switches to Dave to rebuild them when my car goes down for the engine swap. I just hate knowing there's something wrong with my car. I just wanted to cover my bases just to be sure. I might still take apart the switch, doesn't seem too hard to take out of the car.

Hey E, Thanks for the quick reply! I was thinking that too, it seems the only way to refurbish one is by taking it out and cleaning the contacts? I think I may also try to purchase a used one as a just-in-case type of measure. What gives you the idea that it may be the hazard switch itself?

Okay so haven't had a problem until late last night. My left turn signal works fine, when I go and hit my right turn signal I can hear the flasher relay buzzing like crazy. I hit the hazards, and the arrows on is bright on the left, but dim on the right. This morning, same thing, so I checked my hazard switch (turned it on) and now the arrows don't come on. Still works when I hit the left turn signal though. All the other lights are working (parking, head, reverse etc), just no right front or rear turn signals. Every time I hit the hazard switch it immediately kills the 10a fuse now. I replaced the flasher with one I found at the autoparts store and some smoking came up from my steering column. So I immediately removed the flasher and put the other one back in. Does anyone have a clue? I figured with the hazard fuse blown the turn signals shouldn't work at all. I stuck my head underneath and the wiring appears to be all stock.