thedarkie

I copied the text from my hybridz ad. Thanks for pointing out the mistake. As stated in the original post, it'll go to BaT or eBay come spring. Motor was built and swapped in by a reputable speed shop in Toronto. I assume an interested party will want to open up a private dialogue for all the minutiae. I assume you found the link to my Google photos album at the bottom of the post? It being winter now is hard to take a large collection of photos of the car, but I feel I presented the necessary ones to at least attract potential buyers to ask for more.

Cold winter bump

Hey all, Im deciding to part with my Z after many years of happy ownership. I now have 2 young kids and 0 time to enjoy what I've built. I'm trading for something more modern and kid-friendly. I'm only posting this for sale here and at the classicz forums. If an enthusiast doesn't find it here, it'll go for auction (ebay or bat) come spring time. key facts: extremely clean, rust free, tons of awesome parts and a fully built forged 6.0L engine on an aftermarket block! Well sorted, turn the key and enjoy. I bought this car in 2012 from New Hampshire and went through the proper channels to import into Canada. Considering its age and that its originally a US car, you can confidently re-import it into the USA problem free. When I got it, it was freshly restored on a rotisserie and had a plain 5.0L swap. Since then I've swapped in a freshly built Ford 363 on an aftermarket Dart block with a forged bottom end. All the goodies are here for huge power, or just leave it N/A and enjoy a reliable 500hp. Dart SHP block with 4-bolt mains, forged crank, H beam rods, diamond 10:1 pistons, Trickflow R series heads, Edelbrock Super Victor Jr intake, Canton oil pan and aftermarket pump with pickup. Transmission is a freshly built (3000 miles?) world-spec T5. Full disclosure: this transmission is adequate for street driving but will probably not take very many hard launches as the motor exceeds its power rating. It works beautifully though, just don't expect to beat the **** out of it. Clutch is a new Centerforce unit installed with motor. The engine is still carbureted and runs extremely well, however I will be included most of the parts to convert to EFI. Ford Motorsport injectors and rails, a billet 4bbl throttle body with all sensors, and an MS2 ecu with flying lead harness. The Edelbrock intake is already set up for injectors, which are currently plugged with machined caps. What you'll need to complete the EFI conversion is a fuel pump and a regulator, and of course to do the basic wiring. I bought these parts but never got around to converting it. It runs extremely well with a carb, so the motivation just wasn't there for me. The rest of the car has full Arizona Z Car coilover suspension, rear tubular control arms and Wilwood brakes. The front brakes are an upgrade from another Nissan, but I can't remember the exact spec 280ZX??? New Wilwood master cylinder and OEM booster installed last year. Brakes are very strong. R200 LSD. Wheels are original Panasport 16" Exhaust is fully custom built and absolutely gorgeous, a shame to hide it under the car. 1-7/8 runners all stainless. I don't have many pics of the interior, but I will take more for any interested parties. The dash is super clean, the seats are in top condition and Ive installed a Momo leather wheel. The carpets are ok, but to be perfect it would benefit from a professional carpet install. Its not a concours car, but its in excellent condition nevertheless. ZERO rust. It hasn't seen a cloudy day since being built and its stored properly in a garage at all times. I have 2 stacks of folders documenting the car as it exchanged hands between previous owners. The papers date back at least 30 years. A couple of guys have spent a LOT of money on this car over the years, its been well cared for. Even before it went on the rotisserie it was in quite good condition. This car was never a rust-bucket. Considering the overall quality of the car and the cost of the motor (block alone is $3000, the whole engine would be at least $10,000 to replicate) I think I'm asking a reasonable $26,000 for the car. Some photos in a Google album below. I'll be adding more as I sort through them. Thanks for your interest. https://photos.app.goo.gl/BZUSGFiIL3fGKDpJ2

Hey all, I have a 74 260Z with a tach issue. First off, its a V8 swapped car with a Tachmatch box which until very recently worked perfectly fine to display the correct RPM. Once in a (long) while the tach would start hunting around sporadically, but it would go back to normal after a restart or two. Well, the other night, it stopped working entirely. The Tachmatch box has a 'test' mode. With the ignition on (engine off) I have measured this mode to output a steady 1.4v to the signal wire. I then removed the tach from the dash and measured this same 1.4v at wire (A) red/black With the ignition on, I also measure 12-13v across wires ( green & black Does anyone know off hand what the voltage going to the signal wire may be at idle and up? Perhaps the 1.4v in test mode isn't enough to budge the needle? How else might I test this situation to determine if the tach itself is dead? Nothing changed... it used to work, now it doesn't. The Tachmatch box has an LED and some diagnostics troubleshooting which indicate its working correctly. Thanks all

Thanks. I was testing the resistance between ground and "UNIT" so I guess I did THAT right! It was showing around 35 ohms but was sporadic. This lead me back to the tank.. I removed the 2 wires from the sender, put them in contact with eachother, and then checked the gauge. Sure enough it went to full. I guess the gauge itself is fine! With that said, the connectors on those wires going to the sender are JUNK! I tightened the black one up with some pliers and stuck it on there as good as I could. The gauge seems to have gone back to its previous operation. I know the tank is almost full but it went back to showing just shy of 1/2. This is good enough for now as at least I'll be able to tell when Im in the empty ballpark, but I'll have to pull the sender to test further! Just gonna keep driving until I empty the tank Thanks MikeZ

It does appear the erratic problem was loose/bad grounds. I cleaned up a few in the engine bay, tightened down the battery with a new hold-down and recrimped some of the terminals. New question: the fuel gauge is horribly inaccurate and seems to have gotten worse. Previously when filling the tank up it would read half full... slowly going towards empty as the tank empties. Now it goes barely half full, and drops like a rock after very little driving. How do I test the gauge itself? I have it out but Im not sure which wires are the signal, and how to measure that signal? I understand that the sender itself is resistance based, 90ohms empty and 10ohms full (or was that backwards) but how do I test that at the back of the gauge instead of at the tank? Is the signal a single wire or two? Does the gauge read the voltage from that wire? Any help is appreciated, once again. Thanks

Gonna post these up for reference and discussion: Circuit diagram I don't know squat about electrical but I notice two things: in the first three diagrams, they all begin at the starter which has a ground. This is common to all of the gauges. Secondly, as shown in the last diagram, they also all share a ground at the C-4 junction on a brown wire... this also looks common to them. Again, Im clueless about electrical. Beyond checking the connections physically, how do I ensure the ground is actually good all the way back to the gauges?

Disclaimer: I have a Ford small block in the car, but all stock gauges are retained and they all work. I didn't do the swap or wiring myself, the previous owner did; hence some confusion. Car is a 74 260Z Normally the gauges work fine, but once in a while my tach will go wonky and read 0rpm while driving... at this point the temperature and oil pressure gauges start creeping up, and the fuel gauge starts creeping downward. The temp gauge approaches red and the oil pressure gauge goes up to about 3/4 (normally its around 1/3 at idle). The fuel gauge slowly goes down to 1/4 despite the tank being almost full. When the tach springs back to life, the other gauges go back to their expected read-outs. My question is, how are the stock gauges wired? Are they daisy chained in some way, where if one dies or starts behaving erratically the others will follow? Is it possible that when the tach dies, the extra voltage/current/whatever drives the other gauges to false readings? Im hoping someone can at least point me in the right direction to starting a troubleshooting process here. The difficult part is that this only happens randomly and I can't replicate it myself. Thanks

high-five and a virtual beer for you! Thanks

Awesome! That looks a bit different than mine but it's probably close judging by diagrams. Both my hoses are very close to eachother, roughly in the position of your blue hose. I don't have one that runs so far towards the drivers side. Now that I see the vapor tank, I think I have to tear apart the interior and get a good look at it. I figured it was accessed from the wheel well or something, not from inside the car. There's no doubt my raw fuel smells are coming from that area, perhaps for more reasons than just the torn hose. Thanks man

That vapor tank isn't accessible inside the car though right? That's what I meant when I said they didn't connect to anything inside the car. Am I wrong? Hows the vapor tank accessed?

Did you document this anywhere by chance? Wondering if you sought out OE-replacement parts or just did your own thing with fuel-rated rubber hose of roughly equal dimension...

And a valuable lesson is learned: make sure your manual is physically complete before cursing at it for missing key information. Thanks!! Looks like hoses 6 and 7 simply pass through the passenger compartment... I thought maybe they connected to something inside the car, because my hose has several inches missing and a poor connector was made to replace the section. Perhaps buying some new hose and re-routing via the exterior is an option. Will look into it further. Thanks again

Hey guys, I was disassembling my tail lights in order to re-finish the trims and exterior finisher panels when I saw 2 hoses near the passenger side tail-light, inside the car. One hose was crudely cut and a piece inserted to patch it back together. This patch came apart and I'm now realizing that this may have been a contributor to the raw fuel smell inside the cabin. The hose definitely smells of fuel and was basically wide open. I looked all through the manual but didn't find reference to it. This is a 1974 260Z. Can someone post a photo or maybe link to a diagram of how these hoses should look, and what function they serve? Thanks a bunch

I attempted this just before winter, but wound up slightly cracking the black panel. It was as if it wouldn't budge at all. Are these known to be difficult to remove, or did I simply forget to take something more apart?