no.never

not really. i think it was intermittently buzzing anyways. although i am pretty clumsy and leave my keys in the ignition at least once a year per car. hehe on a side note: if you're dog has fleas don't let him in your car. i let him in while i worked on the switch last weekend. i guess i'm not the only one that misses the z. went in to start the car yesterday and my legs were instantly covered with little black dots, a damn huge infestation. dammit!! well it's my fault for not keeping up with his meds. probably doesn't help that the PO installed regular home carpeting. ugh… quarantine.

maybe a misunderstanding: i didn't replace the original lock yet because i noticed the wires were different at the connection, both males. i didn't notice the connectors until after i bought the new switch, but all of the new ones i saw for sale come with both male connections. i'm assuming it doesn't matter, maybe get a female to connect it to the harness. i suppose you're right, why make it easier. if the original switch did last 40 years, unless it's faulty, i probably don't have to worry about the new one for a while.

so i decided to replace the ignition switch completely. man those security screws suck!! at least that top one was pretty annoying. but i didn't remove the switch as i noticed something: the two black wires differ in the switches. the new one has both male ends, while the old one has a male and female. does this matter? the harness connections are both males, i think. also any tips on installing the security screws? to make it less of a PITA if i have to remove again. i was thinking installing screws with a head or pre-drilling a flat line.

that is where i bought the starter. thanks, i'll check it.

both the battery and starter were dead, confirmed at Autozone. that's how i got it back to life. this was about two years ago. i stopped driving it about a year ago because the issue was intermittent and would leave me stranded. it would start normal, but after it was driven then shut off it would do the click thing no starter. then eventually it would start fine without issues. i noticed this was usually when it was really hot out.

hey forum so i'm starting to prep my franken-Z for sale (unless i get attached again hehe) but it's not starting consistently. new/charged battery, new terminals for +/- cables, and new starter. turning the switch will give me a click, prob relay, but will not engage the starter. lights and fuel delivery is fine. after jumping the starter, the car cranks on fine. after that the switch will then engage the starter properly. but eventually it won't and it's back to the same click although always starts when jumping the starter. this weekend i'll probably test the switch assembly. searching here, i see that the electrical part is the usual suspect so maybe i won't have to take the whole assembly out and deal with those screws. although i may end up replacing the whole assembly just to rule it out. the screws have wear so it was replaced or removed at some point. would there be other suspects? - I've read that the oil pressure switch acts like a cutoff on 78?? - fusible links. the PO eliminated the fusible links outside the relays (amongst other things). no fusible links sounds like a problem. - relay under the glove by the fuse box. although if it's starting, wouldn't that rule out the relays? suggestions? checks i can do? heads up, i'm an electrical newb

i got a chance to check my 78 2+2. i think the harness at the back of the switch was slightly loose so that could've been my problem. starts right on the money now. ha, i forgot that mine also does this, so i'm most likely going to have to replace/fix the switch anyway at some point. i saw those screws, how did you end up dealing with these punks? i'm guessing: which is what i'm going to try.

someone's def already done that. last year i sifted through and found an xls with all of the info and pics for each fastener in the front and rear suspension. i also found other docs with the location of the fasteners labeled on a fsm picture. i also remember searching ebay or somewhere and finding fastener sets. this was about a year ago so maybe not available anymore. when i took the front suspension off my 260z they were still zinc plated and in good shape. but i do want to replace them all at one point. for piece of mind, if anything.

nicely done sir. mine has the same stupid problem, but it's intermittent. i started checking it last weekend and it was driving me mad. a dead battery doesn't help either. such a newb. it sucks when you get back from your lunch break late because the car wouldn't randomly start yet five minutes ago it started like a dream.

it looks like it. just the bolt and a clamp at the control arm. he removed the muffler and the crossmember for access to the mount, right? i ultimately am gonna do all of the things in the tech tips, but on my 260.

yea need that. i just want to minimize the time without the z. with my z level, i think this'll take longer than it should. plus i like taking my time. so i give it two weekends? what's worse case scenario here, i'll have a spindle pin being stupid that i have to saw off?

indeed. i did get some strut boots from AZ but they have a bump stop (?) at the top. would these be ok for the z? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Gabriel-Strut-Bumper-Bellow/1978-Nissan-Datsun-280Z/_/N-ivfvlZ8oyq8?itemIdentifier=733199_347763_6064_ it came with those plastic ties, those are probably ok for holding. i can probably use a clamp instead.

ah yes, it's because of those tech tips that i decided to work on a car, increase the datsun level. before that i had little experience and wanted to find a good shop and let them do it but i couldn't find one close. i would've missed out on a lot of fun. my wallet thanked me too. it also helps that my z's are californian and in fairly good shape hehehe. i wish they all could be california giiiiirls. i don't think i'm gonna do the spindle pin on this one. from reading on here it seems out of my level and it's a PITA i can do without, for now. and maybe on the arm bushings. i wanted to skip all that and dissemble as little as possible, maybe just swing the arm down so i can just replace the cartridge. but like ZH, in the end it'll probably be better if i just go through with it. this 280 has taught me a lot already. things that will make the 260 less uncharted. so i'm inclined to work on things that are similar so i can practice, in a sense. good thing lots are the same. like the drum brakes, wanted to have a shop do them specially since the last time i did drum brake job was in high school. but i don't remember it being difficult. maybe i'll have a shop check them afterwards. a safe z is a good z.

that'll come in handy too. they look rusted. i think i damaged the front ones on the 260 so i'm putting SS on those. also disconnecting from the top, right?

thanks ZH yea i thought so. i picked up a compressor when i decided to take off the whole front suspension on the 260, knew i was gonna use it. might replace the bushings, since i took off the bushing for the front arm on the 260. get my pyro on. i'll loosen the drum before taking the arm off. and of course, flush and bleed. difference should be awesome.