no.never

not really. i think it was intermittently buzzing anyways. although i am pretty clumsy and leave my keys in the ignition at least once a year per car. hehe on a side note: if you're dog has fleas don't let him in your car. i let him in while i worked on the switch last weekend. i guess i'm not the only one that misses the z. went in to start the car yesterday and my legs were instantly covered with little black dots, a damn huge infestation. dammit!! well it's my fault for not keeping up with his meds. probably doesn't help that the PO installed regular home carpeting. ugh… quarantine.

maybe a misunderstanding: i didn't replace the original lock yet because i noticed the wires were different at the connection, both males. i didn't notice the connectors until after i bought the new switch, but all of the new ones i saw for sale come with both male connections. i'm assuming it doesn't matter, maybe get a female to connect it to the harness. i suppose you're right, why make it easier. if the original switch did last 40 years, unless it's faulty, i probably don't have to worry about the new one for a while.

so i decided to replace the ignition switch completely. man those security screws suck!! at least that top one was pretty annoying. but i didn't remove the switch as i noticed something: the two black wires differ in the switches. the new one has both male ends, while the old one has a male and female. does this matter? the harness connections are both males, i think. also any tips on installing the security screws? to make it less of a PITA if i have to remove again. i was thinking installing screws with a head or pre-drilling a flat line.

that is where i bought the starter. thanks, i'll check it.

both the battery and starter were dead, confirmed at Autozone. that's how i got it back to life. this was about two years ago. i stopped driving it about a year ago because the issue was intermittent and would leave me stranded. it would start normal, but after it was driven then shut off it would do the click thing no starter. then eventually it would start fine without issues. i noticed this was usually when it was really hot out.

hey forum so i'm starting to prep my franken-Z for sale (unless i get attached again hehe) but it's not starting consistently. new/charged battery, new terminals for +/- cables, and new starter. turning the switch will give me a click, prob relay, but will not engage the starter. lights and fuel delivery is fine. after jumping the starter, the car cranks on fine. after that the switch will then engage the starter properly. but eventually it won't and it's back to the same click although always starts when jumping the starter. this weekend i'll probably test the switch assembly. searching here, i see that the electrical part is the usual suspect so maybe i won't have to take the whole assembly out and deal with those screws. although i may end up replacing the whole assembly just to rule it out. the screws have wear so it was replaced or removed at some point. would there be other suspects? - I've read that the oil pressure switch acts like a cutoff on 78?? - fusible links. the PO eliminated the fusible links outside the relays (amongst other things). no fusible links sounds like a problem. - relay under the glove by the fuse box. although if it's starting, wouldn't that rule out the relays? suggestions? checks i can do? heads up, i'm an electrical newb

i got a chance to check my 78 2+2. i think the harness at the back of the switch was slightly loose so that could've been my problem. starts right on the money now. ha, i forgot that mine also does this, so i'm most likely going to have to replace/fix the switch anyway at some point. i saw those screws, how did you end up dealing with these punks? i'm guessing: which is what i'm going to try.

someone's def already done that. last year i sifted through and found an xls with all of the info and pics for each fastener in the front and rear suspension. i also found other docs with the location of the fasteners labeled on a fsm picture. i also remember searching ebay or somewhere and finding fastener sets. this was about a year ago so maybe not available anymore. when i took the front suspension off my 260z they were still zinc plated and in good shape. but i do want to replace them all at one point. for piece of mind, if anything.

nicely done sir. mine has the same stupid problem, but it's intermittent. i started checking it last weekend and it was driving me mad. a dead battery doesn't help either. such a newb. it sucks when you get back from your lunch break late because the car wouldn't randomly start yet five minutes ago it started like a dream.

it looks like it. just the bolt and a clamp at the control arm. he removed the muffler and the crossmember for access to the mount, right? i ultimately am gonna do all of the things in the tech tips, but on my 260.

yea need that. i just want to minimize the time without the z. with my z level, i think this'll take longer than it should. plus i like taking my time. so i give it two weekends? what's worse case scenario here, i'll have a spindle pin being stupid that i have to saw off?

indeed. i did get some strut boots from AZ but they have a bump stop (?) at the top. would these be ok for the z? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Gabriel-Strut-Bumper-Bellow/1978-Nissan-Datsun-280Z/_/N-ivfvlZ8oyq8?itemIdentifier=733199_347763_6064_ it came with those plastic ties, those are probably ok for holding. i can probably use a clamp instead.

ah yes, it's because of those tech tips that i decided to work on a car, increase the datsun level. before that i had little experience and wanted to find a good shop and let them do it but i couldn't find one close. i would've missed out on a lot of fun. my wallet thanked me too. it also helps that my z's are californian and in fairly good shape hehehe. i wish they all could be california giiiiirls. i don't think i'm gonna do the spindle pin on this one. from reading on here it seems out of my level and it's a PITA i can do without, for now. and maybe on the arm bushings. i wanted to skip all that and dissemble as little as possible, maybe just swing the arm down so i can just replace the cartridge. but like ZH, in the end it'll probably be better if i just go through with it. this 280 has taught me a lot already. things that will make the 260 less uncharted. so i'm inclined to work on things that are similar so i can practice, in a sense. good thing lots are the same. like the drum brakes, wanted to have a shop do them specially since the last time i did drum brake job was in high school. but i don't remember it being difficult. maybe i'll have a shop check them afterwards. a safe z is a good z.

that'll come in handy too. they look rusted. i think i damaged the front ones on the 260 so i'm putting SS on those. also disconnecting from the top, right?

thanks ZH yea i thought so. i picked up a compressor when i decided to take off the whole front suspension on the 260, knew i was gonna use it. might replace the bushings, since i took off the bushing for the front arm on the 260. get my pyro on. i'll loosen the drum before taking the arm off. and of course, flush and bleed. difference should be awesome.

hey all so since i've got the 280 running i've been happy driving. i get the clankity clank in the rear when driving and also during acceleration. traction loss, her butt skids sometimes. some of the clank is from the driver door, which i can obviously hear, but going over bumps the front is fine but i can feel the back clanking. i haven't checked the suspension but i did look and everything seems fine. i don't mind the noise but i'm sure it's gonna damage or wear something, plus slightly annoying. since it's my DD for now i want it comfortable so i guess new shocks are in order. the drum brakes were next anyways so i'll do the rear struts before the brakes. wouldn't mind having better control. the cheapest i can find now are KYBs. keeping stock springs, if they're not the issue. am not interested in lowering a car. is there a way to replace the inserts without taking the control arm off? going by Blue's Tech Tips. if not then i'll probably do control arm bushing. i have the bushing master kit for my 260 sitting around, i think they're the same for the 280, maybe i can steal the rear control arm bushings.

thanks. he's still around, his legs gave in so he can't get around anymore. we have mixed feelings in the family about putting him down. taking a life is a tough decision but in the end it's mom's house and her call and she opposes. i guess i'll keep stopping by until then. he's a good dog, german shepherd/lab mix. was overprotective, killed animals that dared come in the yard. but very loving and playful, great family dog. the only one that didn't get stolen or ran off from an open gate. i wanted to wait a couple of years after his passing to get another dog, maybe a rescue. but last year, the same time i got my 260z, someone gave me a puppy and i couldn't turn it down. i used to take him home for play time with the senior, although it annoyed the senior. now i'm not too sad since i see some of the senior dog in the pup. and in turn the pup is partially the reason why i have this 280, thus on this forum. the circle of life, mufasa.

sorry, haven't been able to work on the car. been hanging back home with my childhood dog, after 18 years he's reached the end of the line. plus with the rain i didn't drive it, just warmed it up. yesterday the rain stopped so i drove, all day no problems. got home parked it, after clearing up parking space i went to start the car and it just clicked. car was fine and i couldn't find anything wrong up front. then i noticed all lights weren't turning on. pulled and checked all the fuses and everything was fine. went to start the car and it started fine, headlights were dim as usual but everything turned on. went back to the fuses and i noticed a wire going to the steering column was hot. turns out there's a short when the lights get turned on. i knew it needed attention when i was checking the electrical and the headlights were very low plus the left was brighter than the right. i thought it was the bulbs but also thought it was weird they were really low even with the high beam indicator on. they turned on last night and i don't drive at night much so i wouldn't have noticed. i'm guessing when i went to move the car i turned the lights on while starting and caused a short. she stayed home today. i was gonna start a new thread but since you guys helped this guy out with similar problem: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread42858.html looks like i gotta hit the wiring diagrams and attack the steering wheel. my high beam indicator is always on and the dash lights are low so i definitely need to look in there. i also don't have any fusible links.

Thanks ED. Sorry, did the test after driving 20 min, engine temp normal. I got a healthy reading, but ill try again I did quick. This tester also does fuel pressure. compression tester en route. Y'know, I'm close to the end of my first tank and it seems to be running slightly better and better, may be just me. I don't remember my odo on fill up so no mpg ballpark. So more info coming up, stay tuned...

Got home and caught a small break in the rain. Popped the hood and pulled the dipstick, rpm dropped. Put it back, rpm returned, plug sits better than I thought. Pulled the hose from pressure reg, rpm dropped but not as much as the dipstick. Attached tester, vacuum reading was 18 then crept up to 19. Increased rpm to about 3 and the reading briefly dropped to 15 initially, then shot up to 20 or 21.

since i'm checking valve lash i'm also gonna check timing. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html never checked timing before. steered clear of it. another first. no gun necessary? just turning the rear wheels CCW in 4th gets me to TDC? ugh, forecast gives me rain until monday. maybe i can at least sneak the vacuum test.

ha that's right! seemed like he got bit by the australian z bug, i hear those are bigger. hehehe the idle has gone up as far as 2 and gotten stuck there. after a gas tap it decreases to the average 1.5. oh i did remember one thing about the vacuum while reading the FSM: the oil dipstick. it's loose, may not be sealing properly. i think there's a rubber piece that goes to the top tube or dipstick. or do i have to replace the whole dipstick? that'll pop up in the vacuum test, scratch one leak. i love the rain. but when it gets between me and the z...

oh i see the mix up, we were talking about vacuum but i was referring to rpm then. sorry about that. vacuum hasn't been measured yet, ill pick up a vacuum and a compression tester.

did find a post from a year ago when you guys helped angriest with a valve adjust, "newb valve adjustment on a 78 280z", hmm the title is where i'm at. very informative. looks like that's where i'm headed, just not as deep into the rabbit hole as angriest. seems like he just wanted to be 110% certain before jumping and needed a push, i'd be that scared too if i had put in as much new parts as he did. yikes. ah but the reward is what makes this game fun! looks like i'ma be serving up a cold order of valve adjust once the sun is out. i forgot about the ET section, you're right ZH first one up. i guess all i need is a 27mm for the locking nut and some feelers, right? to move the crankshaft to get the lobes up, i do it from the alt? what is this high tension cable from the coil that i have to disconnect? is the lock nut tightened after each turn or after all? having fun driving. no problems. did have an instance at a light where i saw my rpms drop, which hasn't, to 5 like it was going to 0. when i saw that i thought, uh-oh, then gave it some gas. went back to 15 hasn't happened since. weird.

NO NEVER! not even in my dreams would i dream of doing that, i barely wanna take the cover off. even though it would be ok just don't feel comfortable opening the motor, one day. The two responses i get for the z: 1) "i used to have one (several) of these," and, 2) "In-line 6? oh those are easy." so when i thought about doing it to my 260 i researched it and i bought "How To Restore Your Nissan L20" book. i remember reading the valve adjust parts (first couple of chapters) then it just got ridiculously complicated after that, but saw how the L20 looks inside. 260 is a good candidate for that though, has been sitting for almost a year and the manifolds and carbs are off. Don't know what that means, but buddy there seem to be several ways to go wrong with me period, hehehe. This weekend I'll check FSM ET, timing, plugs, continuity, and vacuum. also start looking/asking around for a local help, found two z shops around. one has a full electric 280z in the front page of their WS, the other you can see part of the owner's black pearl in the background of a picture. those seem like good signs.