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Dr. 240Z

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Everything posted by Dr. 240Z

  1. Dr. 240Z replied to Zu Zu's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Hi, Please learn from my costly mistake from last October. Do not use synthetic oil. Use a quality 10-30 regular like Castrol GTX. Important: Always supplement your choice of oil with ZDDP - Especially if you are breaking in a new cam. ZDDP is cheap - $6 to $8 per oil change - On sale right now at Eastwoods Cheers, George
  2. Dr. 240Z replied to fixitman's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Hi, I suggest you look on ebay - less than 48 hours ago I spotted a couple of tool sets with bags and wasn't searching for them. They looked like mine - Series 1 Regards, George
  3. Hi, Just thought I'd add a comment or two for what they're worth: For internal coverage I used Eastwood's, 'Metal Protect', a Zinc Chromate sprayed inside the rails etc via the 18' wand that is provided. As such, I applied it generously and used 3 cans. For external coverage where there is no wear and tear, and hard to access I used, 'Fluid Film'. It goes on nicely straight out of the can or with the Eastwood wand I've already mentioned. This consumed 2 cans. For easily accessed areas such as the floor pans I used POR15 over raw metal. A little POR15 goes a long way - I used less than 1 pint. For external coverage where there is wear and tear I used Eastwood's, 'Rubberized Undercoat Aerosol' over a coat of POR15. This consumed 4 cans. Products like Fluid Film require repeated/periodic applications - no question John, is no doubt correct in his 'rant on rust' above, but it's hard to stand back and do nothing to attempt to slow it down. Also, there's satisfaction in just knowing you have tried.
  4. Hi mgmoreau, I could/should have taken a series of pictures while I was installing the material. That said, its now covered up with foam and carpet. As such, I rolled them back in an attempt to give you at least a small look at the material in place. Cheers, George
  5. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  6. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  7. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  8. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  9. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  10. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  11. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  12. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  13. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  14. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  15. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  16. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Vanity Plates
  17. philbar73, The pictures compliment your written description very well. I really like the approach you have engineered - fewer moving parts - well done!! George
  18. Hi Siteunseen, I suspect that you will have to configure something similar to what I posted. The reason being that the Weber chokes open in the opposite direction from the SU's, and, as such, the two original cables are too short to accommodate the 180 degree bend the outer Webers require. An alternative would be to remove the two original cables and replace them with one long cable (10') which you could feed through the firewall then under the three carbs up and around to top of the front side of the 1st carb. If this is of interest, there is a post by, 'Lazeum' on the hybrid Z site titled ' Weber DCOE40 18 Info Needed' Cheers, George
  19. Hi, I just finished hooking up the choke to Triple Weber DCOE 40's and thought I'd share it with you: Frist, please note I used the idea/picture from cygnusx1 as posted earlier - give credit where it's do!! I bought a $0.30 piece of aluminum: 3'' x 1" x 1/4" which I cut to shape and then dry sanded to 1500. I drilled out the pivot hole vertically to 5/16" and the two cable holes to 1/8" horizontally. I used a 20.5" length of steel braided aviation cable to hook up the choke levers. To attach the choke levers I used 6mm bolts drilled out 1/8" to accept the braided cable. I secured both cables (the longer of the two original choke cables and the braided cable) to the bell crank lever with brass electrical connectors. The shorter original choke cable was ligated under the 2nd and 3rd Weber - both out of the way and out of sight. As is, the choke works with about the same degree of pull on the choke lever as with the twin SU's Regards, George
  20. Hi Again, I forgot to put a plug in for this guy: Shop at home - buy American Brian, says he will charge $120.00 /unit (includes Shipping within USA) if he gets a bulk order - not sure what a 'bulk' order is but it could be worthwhile asking. Cheers, George
  21. Hi, I just got in touch with Brian (the owner?) of the outfit where I purchased my metal heat shield. He's got one in stock and can have more made up within a week. Cheers, George
  22. Hi, I purchased it around the first of this year. I was told that a bunch were being fabricated so shipping/delivery took a while. Perhaps, they haven't updated their web site recently - An email to them might yield an answer. email address: azcarbum@msn.com Cheers, George

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