Dr. 240Z

Hi, I purchased Murdermat after a lot of study. The order arrived in great shape and shipping was pleasingly fast via UPS. However, the order arrived without an instructions (helpful hints) but I found cutting and fitting the material was straight forward using a sharp utility knife. How well it actually works only time will tell. The day I installed it the outside temperature was -15F and the Z was in full hibernation. The company requested a product review and, as such, I wrote it up; both the good and the not so good. It was the first product review placed on the company web site and if you read it you will note the company published the whole review which I think was pretty straight up of them. Cheers, George

Welcome, Dan Blue is without doubt Canada's most 'connected' Z car nut and a heck of a nice guy. I hope you find this site helpful in your efforts to rehabilitate the Z. If you can't find the answer to a problem in the forums, just ask....I've found members are very willing to help.Also, it's a pretty good source for parts. Should you ever drive East to NB please look me up. Cheers, George

Hi, Just thought I'd share what I've assembled for a simple heat shield. In this case it's being used on an L24 with triple Weber DCOE 40's. However, it should work for other carb brands as well. For those interested in its construction the metal shield was sourced from Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: and the insulation from Your Racing Safety Company Cheers, George

Eastwood sells a product for restoring old/tired vinyl. It works well and a little goes a long way...not to mention, it's reasonably priced.

I Followed up at a local auto parts store - Here's the spring in position with its very long and adaptable ends adjusted to a good working length:

Hi, Have you looked on ebay? Check out ebay member: kurtwwalters Cheers, George

Hi, A couple of pictures as suggested: Driver's door without a spring and passenger's door with a spring in place. Thanks, George

Hi Ken, I think you are asking me for one large picture of the belt - I suggest that I'd have to remove the seat and then the belts in order to do that. So, I've left the belts in place and taken a series of close-ups that I hope will provide you with what you're looking for. Cheers, George

Hi, If you have one or can suggest where I can purchase one it would be appreciated. Assuming it is the same as the passenger's door, it has 4 coils. Thanks, George

Hi, I'll suggest, 'How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car' by Wick Humble. I'll also suggest that you check out AbeBooks Official Site - New & Used Books, New & Used Textbooks, Rare & Out of Print Books as a good source for this and other used books. Cheers, George

Hi, Anyone having had any experience/exposure with a product, 'Murdermat', please offer your comments. From the company web site presentation, it appears to be a well thought out product both in its composition and application. Thanks, George

Never been one to quit....try this: Google: New-Datsun-Parts Look in Electrical and Lighting Cheers, George

One more time: Datsun 240Z Parts, Lights and Lamps

Let's try that again: Datsun 240Z Parts, Lights and Lamps

Hi, Give this site a look: Datsun 240Z Parts, Lights and Lamps

Hi, geezer Yes...I state that because over the past 40 years they have been viewed by various tire-techs without comment. Additionally, I've never been witness to any visible damage to the rims and, to date, I've never had any problems (ie loose rims) except for the rust issue as mentioned earlier. Cheers, George

Hi, Kenmataya This is the original belt from a 1971 (made in Jan./71) Hope it helps! George

Hi, and thanks to all who have responded to this question. The wheels are aftermarket (bought new in 1972) and I'm not sure I ever knew the manufacturer. The important thing here, as has already been pointed out and questioned, is the lug nut's shape. That said, these artermarket wheels take a taper ended nut similar to that of the OEM's steel rims. Thanks again, everyone!! George

Great...Thanks, dltalfa

Thanks, David I like your definative response. Cheers, George

Hi, I've got a 71 240Z and would like to replace the rusty lug nuts. It's been suggested to purchase 'McGards'. I'm okay with that but a web search only lists McGards for a 260Z. Question: Do the 240Z's share the same lug nut specs as as the 260Z's? Thanks, George

My Z has had a hole in the vinyl in the area of the throttle slot for years...too many years to remember!! The attached pictures show a simple fix: Find a piece of plastic with a surface textured similar to the surrounding vinyl, cut it to fit, place it and colour it to match. In this case, the plastic is from the lid of a bottle of almonds.

Interesting, tlober, that's what I used on the exterior of the mast as well. Internally, on the cable I used a minimal amount of white grease.

Yes - There are multiple internal areas that should be cleaned and lubricated which are only accessible via 'peeling the onion' (removing the layers). Given your account it's hard to suggest taking it apart. That being said, if you don't inpsect it occasionally chances are its silently corroding away which could prove challenging down the road to restore...especially given the lack of OEM parts available.

Recently the Z's antenna stopped working in both directions. However, the motor that drives it sounded 'nonmal'. Upon reading multiple threads on this site and elsewhere I decided to attempt a fix. It can be done!! Somebody/somewhere suggested using Trimmer Line if the problem was the result of a broken plastic drive cable...which this was. The replacement cable is 46.25" of 0.13 trimmer line which cost $0.80 at a local farm store. Please note a couple of take-aways if you attempt this: 1) Write down everything you remove as you remove it...do not rely on your memory! Place all the removed parts in sequence. Hint: Take a series of pictures. 2) Use heat to remove the plastic cable from the metal attachments at both ends. Also, use heat to insert the new cable. In both cases, heat the metal parts and not the cable itself. 3) Take advantage of where you are by cleaning and oiling as necessary before sealing the site up. Cheers, George