Dr. 240Z

The VIN (12,043) confirms that yours is a Series 1....No question about it

By way of suggestion, replace both lamps with Cibie lenses and quality H4 bulbs...You will be amazed!! There's lots of good info here on CZCC.

Happy Thanksgiving to you too, Blue

Sorry to read about your 'bad' news. I experienced some of the same with my Z's cam this time last year. From that experience I'd like to suggest that you look into using/use an oil additive, ZDDP, going forward. A 4 ounce bottle, which costs around $6.00 (ebay), may prevent a repeat heartbreak...."we love our cars!"

Further to the last post, if you power it up and it still will not retract (you hear the electric motor running, but there is no retraction of the mast) it's very likely that the plastic/nylon cord that drives it from within has broken. This happen to mine a year ago and I replaced the drive cord with whipper snipper cord. That said, it works great again. FYI: I posted a detailed account here on CZCC of how I fixed mine. Hope this is of value to you. George

Consider using 3M's 8119 'Weatherstrip Adhesive' (black). I HAD the exact same issue and this product resolved it completely.

25mm on my 1/71 Z....not sure if it is OEM

Here's a cut and paste from a post I made a few months ago - I hope it is of some value to you. Follow these steps: 1) Remove the driver's seat and place cushions in front of and behind the front of the seat support cross member for comfort. 2) Lay on your back and slide forward so that your head is up against the clutch and brake pedals. 3) Using your left hand, reach up and remove the two wing nuts that screw onto the two threaded posts which support the tachometer. 4) Carefully push the tachometer forward so as to remove it from the front of the dash. 5) Once it's out of the front, make a drawing of what wires go where in the rear of the tachometer. 6) Remove the wires and then remove the tachometer completely out of the way. 7) Using a stubby Philips screwdriver, reach through the hole in the dash for the tachometer and remove the two supporting screws that hold the rheostat in place. 8) Unplug the two wires to the rheostat and remove the plastic knob on the stem. Now remove the rheostat via the same hole as you used to access the two Philips screws. 9) Reverse steps 1 through 8 to install the new rheostat and re-install the tach.

Hi, z boy mn As per my earlier entry, please check out Dave Irwin for the wiring harness as he makes them. Daniel Stern purveys great lenses (Cibie) and H4 bulbs Cheers, George

Hi, As a suggestion, send your questions by email to, 'Dave', at: wolfin32z@yahoo.com Cheers, George

Hi, Here's an alternative to sealed beams/LED's that really works well: Wire in Dave's HL harness and purchase a pair of Cibie H4's (google: Daniel Stern) Go with the bulbs DS recommends. I did and I'm very pleased as the illumination is as good as the xenons I've owned. Cheers, George

Yes, it the correct emblem on the pillar for a 1970. Missing is the emblem on the rear hatch...should be one on the lower right corner Cheers, George

Sorry, e-tek....It doesn't reflect the era of your Z...needs to be more defining and enhance the value of your fine workmanship

Coil good? Kind of looks 'tired' in the picture

"is there a trick to fitting it"....Not sure about a 1972, but on a Jan.71 placing the left panel is easier if you start by removing the rear (center) panel for more/better access. Hope this helps, George

Nice job...well documented...thanks for sharing Well done!!

Hi, Purchased my TEP 3 point front strut bar six months ago and regretfully just installed it...wish I had gotten to it sooner. Followed Mike's approach and concur 100% with his observations....it really is a piece of functional steel (as well as eye candy). Cheers, George

Hi, Still waiting to hear from you re a Series 1 drivers door hinge with spring....I'm still interested Thanks

Welcome....where in Canada are you? Cheers, George

The clutch fails and releases the metal fan into the rad and/or hood. By way of suggestion, check for any play in your fan. Take a blade and attempt to move it perpendicular to the axis of rotation. If there is any detectable movement (wobble), be aware of a potential clutch failure. Also, I should mention that if you observe any loss of fluid (oily)from within the clutch mechanism, it's a heads-up that a change is due. The original Series 1 clutch fan hubs were not designed to be refurbished; only replaced. Hope this is of value to you. Cheers, George

Re: Metal Fan This is a great thread and your work is outstanding. That said, I feel obliged to comment on your metal fan. I got lucky earlier this summer when my metal fan started to fail. It made a couple of raspy noises under acceleration which took a little exploring to source. My first thought was to keep it original and replace it with another original (new/refurbished) fan clutch, but all I could source was a used one. Of note, on another thread, Carl Beck, noted that he had seen six metal fan failures and the horrid damage that resulted. So, the bottom line is unless you are totally comfortable with the old metal fan, as is, then replacing it with the newer plastic type might be good preventative medicine. Plastic doesn't look nearly as retro, but after a couple of months you move on. Plastic fans and their fan clutch are readily available both new (MSA, etc) and used (ebay). Cheers, George

As a suggestion, send 'Blue' a PM with your question.

The Eastwood spray is marketed with a two foot spray hose/nozzle which feeds very nicely into enclosed spaces. Additionally, as I can attest, the spray material adheres extremely well and is resistant to most solvents. Three cans were enough to do all the hidden areas on my '71 from front to back with a liberal application. Cheers, George

Great pictures....thanks for sharing!! Met up with some really nice Ontario Z owners with beautiful Z's at the ZCON 13 a couple of weeks ago - wish I lived a little closer Cheers, George

Blue is serious - I can attest to his comment, "a great improvement" as we made this change to the larger booster on my Z (Jan. '71) a month ago. Additionally, the switch is neither a long and/or difficult procedure when four hands go at it. I think you will be pleased. George