Dr. 240Z

Hi, By way of suggestion, send a PM to Carl Beck if you want an exact answer. Regards, George

Marc, all but the doors to date. That said, I have two sheets remaining, and I'm undecided as to where they go until I road test it. Certainly, the doors are a possibility - if needed. Cheers, George

Hi Marc, I purchased the MDK Trunk Kit (20 sq ft.) and it turned out to be enough. In fact, just the right amount for the job. It was easy to work with be using a sharp utility knife. As to how well it works, please ask me again in a month - snowing here this AM!! FYI: The company has dropped the price; now $80.00 Cheers, George

Thanks, Mike...it's something that I've never given much thought to 'til now. That said, if it's not too much to ask please send me a pm and picture when you get it installed. I'm going to follow your lead. Cheers, George

Try bathing (submerging) it in straight Javex or Chlorox bleach for 24 hours Cheers, George

Just curious: What did you buy for a fire extinguisher and where did you place in your Z?

Hi, Not sure what you have tried for dual air horns, but I've had great response from my FIAMM dual horns since installing them in 1974. Also, the sound of a well tuned exhaust helps to make youe presence known - many bikers subscribe to this belief. Another thought on this tangent (safety) is the importance of being seen. Good quality European H4 headlights like Cibie make you (your Z)much more visible to approaching traffic and/or traffic you want to overtake - always run with them on. Cheers, George

Hi Jeff, I think you are in luck...try: index Take a look at the top right hand corner of the home page Cheers, George

Thanks, Blue...I'll do that...won't be today as the temp and wind combine to make a chill factor of only +2F...seems like January! Cheers, George

Thanks, Dave...I'll follow your instructions. Happy Saint Patrick's Day!! George

Hi, Although it's only +2 F degrees here this morning I'm getting anxious to crank up the L30. It's been hibernating inside my garage at 55F since October and I'm not very sure just how to go about this. I don't want to flood it. My question is: With the triple Weber DCOE 40's do you suggest I use my recently installed choke or do I pump the throttle a few times before rolling it over? Cheers, George

Zhead240, top o' the mornin' to ya!! Hava Green day, George

Thanks, Jeff...You are correct....I screwed up - not the first time - most likely won't be the last!!

Hi Arnie, On my 1971 Z I've got a 2.5'' system that finishes up with a nicely tucked in (out of sight) oval Dynomax. As is, the intake is centered and the output is offset. By way of mention,the system starts with a full header and was quite loud and with a bit of drone. I since have added a 'Cherrybomb' about mid-length to the system; it removed the drone and made a deeper (more pleasing ) sound to the system. Regards, George

Hi, Check out ebay - I noted one there last night. Regards, George

WOW - Outstanding, Lazeum!! Great post - I envy you for your knowledge of metal properties and skills working with them. Thanks for sharing. Could be a patent opportunity?? Cheers, George

Hi Mike, I think the failure of the original rheostat resulted from a form of burn out in the resistor coil. Note the coil in the old one does not extend to the nut in the 1:00 position. Secondly, the arm which slides over the coil as the control knob is turned was loose and not rotating properly. Hopefully, Mike, the pictures will make up for my rather weak explanation. Cheers, George

Hi Blue, I just came in from the garage to find your pictures - Thanks so much. Here's the good news: Changing the rheostat on an early 1971 Z is not a difficult procedure!! Follow these steps: 1) Remove the driver's seat and place cushions in front of and behind the front of the seat support cross member for comfort. 2) Lay on your back and slide forward so that your head is up against the clutch and brake pedals. 3) Using your left hand, reach up and remove the two wing nuts that screw onto the two threaded posts which support the tachometer. 4) Carefully push the tachometer forward so as to remove it from the front of the dash. 5) Once it's out of the front, make a drawing of what wires go where in the rear of the tachometer. 6) Remove the wires and then remove the tachometer completely out of the way. 7) Using a stubby Philips screwdriver, reach through the hole in the dash for the tachometer and remove the two supporting screws that hold the rheostat in place. 8) Unplug the two wires to the rheostat and remove the plastic knob on the stem. Now remove the rheostat via the same hole as you used to access the two Philips screws. 9) Reverse steps 1 through 8 to install the new rheostat and re-install the tach. Voila!! Cheers, George

Hi Jim, I returned under the dash for another look and noted a wing-nut that appears to hold the tachometer in place. That being the case, I think if I were to remove the wing-nut the tachometer might (hopefully) be removed via the front of the dash. With the tach out of the way, the rheostat might then be readily accessible. Does this approach seem reasonable to you? Regards, George

Jim, What you suggest is the exactly where it stands. However, like I stated at the beginning, it's the only thing that's not working, and I have a new (used/ebay) rheostat to repace it with. I can't imagine Nissan made this task as difficult as it appears - It would have cost them a fortune to replace if they had to pull the dash out when these were under warranty. Cheers, George

These are 195/60 X 14" Hope this helps Cheers, George

This might be worth a try: Datsun 240Z 260z 280z TRW Stock Camshaft New | eBay Cheers, George

Hi, If there is anyone who has changed the dashlights rheostat and didn't find it too difficult - I need your help please. As is, I've removed the driver's seat and placed numerous cushions and folded towels down to make lying on my back relatively comfortable. After that it's all up hill - access is tight and visibility is limited. There must be an easy way; I just haven't read about it in any forums or been able to figure it out for myself. Everything else on the old girl works so I'd really like to have her 100%. Thanks, George

Hi Bryan, I purchased my POR products online direct from the company. The company has a great website which really does a great job explaining their various products. Additionally, if you do need any help, contact 'support' and you will be amazed how fast you get a response. I give them an A+. Cheers, George

Hi e-tek, I visited your site as you suggested - Thanks for sharing your years of experience and subsequent insight. Cheers, George