dpascual1986

dual round top SU's. What am I looking at here?

'75 L28, fresh rebuild, wont start. 1. Ive got spark 2. Ive got Fuel 3. If I remove the hose going to the mechanical fuel pump outlet, and spray air through the hose towards the carbs, with the throttle open, fuel comes out from the carbs. I can then start the car for about 10 seconds, then it dies. 4. It will run off of starting fluid. Any ideas?

is there a particular reason why all these L24-28 freeze plug sets seem to be short two 35mm plugs? there are 5 35mm on the intake side, and 4 35mm on the alternator side, a 50mm in the back and a 40mm in the front. total of 11 plugs but most, if not all the plug sets Ive seen only have 9. Datsun 240Z 260z 280z 280ZX 1970 1983 L24 L28 Engine Freeze Plug Set Brass New | eBay Did I remove a couple that I wasnt supposed to?

noted.

About to put my engine block together. Had it decked, sleeved and bored. New pistons, polished crankshaft -armed with limited knowledge, youtube videos, some guts and a how to rebuild your datsun engine book. Ive seen this Blue character stop by local places and helps bros out and he has been helpful in my posts as well. I was wondering if there was a local guy in my area (90745 - Carson, CA) with as much passion in these cars, that'd be willing to spot me while I test uncharted waters (for me anyway).

any details on this? When and Where?

might be a stupid question but what is vapor lock? Are you running stock mechanical fuel pump? Can you show a pic your "different" fuel rail? I was planning to cut the hard lines along the firewall and attach a hose from the firewall to the carbs directly -eliminating the two hard lines on the left side of the engine bay (when looking at it head on).

thanks. I flipped through the forums using "eliminating fuel return" and there are mixed opinions about it. I guess I shouldn't eliminate -if unsure, dont fix what's not broke.

1973 240z. What is the other line on the fuel rail for, the one not connected to the fuel filter? Is it a feed to the carbs or is it a return? I want to cap it, im trying to clean up my engine bay but it kinda looks important

sooo... about that picture of the hot UPS chick..???

What is IPO? I believe you are absolutely right about poor lube and wear on bearings.. I will put this thing back together for educational purposes and be on the look out for a newer engine. From what I read, the later 280z engines were preferrable. Zedhead - what do you think about that dowel pin that I broke?

I would assume that a gasket is the first thing you think of when joining two parts like these. the gasket seems to be new, I removed the cover without difficulty, the gasket is undamaged, you can see it in the picture with the broken bolt. I still need to pull the head 1. broke the dowel pin that secures the cam sproket to the cam shaft. its not a pin is it? its an appendage to the cam, and not replaceable by your noob DIYer? 2. PO screwed the wrong bolts to the fuel pump, it broke through the inside. 3. I might as well, there's only about 10 head bolts in my way now.

soo... I have successfully removed the timing cover.. and I have found the source of our problem.. no timing cover gasket... I also found some JB weld right next to the inlet on the block for the coolant. see below... So.. the questions are.. 1.why would you go through all that trouble removing a timing cover, replacing the timing belt (i assume was new bc there doesnt seem to be any chain stretch) and not put a gasket on it? 2. Why the JB weld? (maybe to seal up the coolant inlet for the block?) 3. Would a machine shop be able to check the cover for warpage, cracks and other mickey mouse crap the PO did to it? 4. Does anyone have a link to where I can buy a new timing cover? On a different note, I was able to get to the broken bolt. Here it is in all its glory You can see the jb weld that went around the inlet. (i dont know the proper term). I can't get over people that screws others over. :tapemouth I tried to drill it out with a left handed drill bit, no success, I then tried to ez-out it (i got a firm bite but it felt so hard that I didn't want to risk breaking the ez-out in there. I will attempt to weld a new head on it by this week. My question is.. 1. I read that welding on the block is relatively easy because the block is cast iron and the bolt is steel -meaning that if you miss the bolt remnants and hit the block with your mig wire, it wont weld on the block for a few reasons a. the block takes longer to heat up b. two different types of metal (steel and iron) Can someone confirm my information? This week's goal 1. Remove head and get it machined. 2. Repair timing cover or replaced 3. Weld a new head on broken bolt

if a mobile mechanic just spilled a gallon of oil in the garage and broke a bolt in the engine block, he'd be having a real bad day.

aha! you're right, its not in the block, its only in the timing cover -unless that bolt was meant to go through the cover and into the block (it is pretty long). i meant to check the pressure to find where my leak is, the current theory is that i might have a hole in a core plug positioned inside the timing cover.